I've tried CA and Walthers Goo. Both hold but can be pulled off with just a little effort. Testors plastic cement does a better job but can be pulled off with a little more effort then CA and Goo.
Fast Track uses Pliobond in a picture of the website. My hobby shop owner never heard of it. Amazon has it and I want to try it.
I want to try handlaying track without spending loads of money. I want the Fast Tracks equipment but start up cost is prohibitive at this point.
I have a lot of plastic ties from flex-track and scrap rail laying around and thought if I could frustrate myself long enough trying to use it, I will break down and buy some Fast Tracks or proper hand laying material.
Don't want to use spikes with plastic ties. I made a very nice looking crossover but the rails laid over as soon as I started to file on it.
I figured maybe a different adhesive would work. I know gluing metal to plastic has long been a bugaboo and maybe they have come up with something that I'm not aware.
Pat Bandy
If you really want to use plastic ties for this the best way to make it work would be to use a PCB tie every 10th tie or so and solder the rail to it. Then the intermediate ties don't need to be stuck to the rail. No way would I depend on rail glued to plastic ties as a long term solution.
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
I use ME code 70 rail glued down on Central Valley's CVT ties. I use a mix of Barge Cement (Ace Hardware) and also found on-line and MEH found at Big Box or a paint store. I touch each tie with the glue mix (about 60/40) and brush apply to the back of the rail. They bond together very nicely and I've had very little issue with pop offs. Generally when the rail pops off, my investigations have shown I missed a bunch of ties. A tube of Barge cement and MEH mix does about 200 total feet of rail.
Its very easy but you must run a small fan to move some air while laying rail.
If you are using the flex track ties, can't you just slip the new rail in?
Tom
Tom,
I suspect the CVT ones are a somewhat different plastic than ME and most others. Mostly because yours is one of few successful reports of using adhesive to hold rail to plastic ties.
I've used Goo for cosmetic applications of ties to rail, but never found a reliable adhesive for conventional flex-track ties that would create a structural bond.
Using wood ties seems a much better plan unless the OP wants to go the CVT route. People have reliably used adhesive on rail over wood ties, with spikes here and there as needed, for decades.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
I found Pilobond in a local Ace hardware.
tloc52 I use ME code 70 rail glued down on Central Valley's CVT ties. I use a mix of Barge Cement (Ace Hardware) and also found on-line and MEH found at Big Box or a paint store. I touch each tie with the glue mix (about 60/40) and brush apply to the back of the rail. They bond together very nicely and I've had very little issue with pop offs. Generally when the rail pops off, my investigations have shown I missed a bunch of ties. A tube of Barge cement and MEH mix does about 200 total feet of rail. Its very easy but you must run a small fan to move some air while laying rail. If you are using the flex track ties, can't you just slip the new rail in? Tom
No, when making a crossover I need to glue or attach rail across ties and rails on the crossing track.
I've used the Barge/MEH formula previously on ME rail and wood ties. Once bonded, you could only scrape the tie off the rail. I had trouble with keeping the gauge,(bad eyes) CVT tie strips are self gauging.
I think the main thing is to make sure any plastic ties and rail are clean and to also coat the rail. I really like the bonding method. I will admit though, the first layout was started 2.5 years ago, so how long will they last, I only have a short time period to compare.
I have also used it on ME turnouts where I've busted a few of the ME ties trying to add rail joiners. Those seem to be holding.
I used the Central Valley tie strips on some parts of the upper level of my layout, and attached the rail to it using either DAP Weldwood Gelled Contact Cement or LePage's Gelled Contact Cement - both work equally well. The CV ties are styrene, the same as Atlas track.
I apply the cement to the ties and rail using a 1/4" or 3/8" chisel-type brush. It's important to allow the applied glue to sit for the recommended time, 15-20 minutes, before bringing the two surfaces together, but the drying time can be up to two hours (if you happen get busy doing something else while waiting).The CV tie strips have tieplate and spike detail to aid in placement of the rail, but I lay sheets of waxed paper over the ties once the cement has dried, then lay the rails, one-at-a-time, atop that. With 2 or 3 ties exposed, position the rail's end and press down firmly, then continue along, slipping the waxed paper off the ties in the direction in which you're working, and following along guiding the rail into place with your other hand. Re-apply the waxed paper and install the other rail in the same manner. I usually pre-solder several lengths of rail together, so getting it in place goes quickly.
The same contact cement will also work on Micro Engineering ties, but because they're made of engineering plastic, you need to rough-up the gluing surface - sandpaper works well, and I used that method when cementing ME bridge track to styrene plastic bridges.Both brands of this gelled contact cement come in quart and gallon cans, and while not especially cheap, a quart will go a long way. This is also a useful cement for other jobs around the home, too - I used it to veneer my kitchen cabinets almost 30 years ago, and have had no issues with it.The odour is fairly strong (petroleum naptha, MEK, and toluene), so adequate ventilation is important. I also wear a two stage respirator when using it.
Wayne
Wayne,
Never messed with Atlas track, but I see why there's been limited success with ME by me, my go to track.
I probably never pursued these methods further because of my stunning lack of success. But given the technique and time involved, even when it does work with the attention to detail you're taking, I wonder what advantage this has over just spiking down some ME flex? The speed and strength of spiking flex down seems advantageous to me. So what are the advantages to gluing it down, other than in Code 40 and such where spikeheads are too tall and cause your wheels to bump along?
A lot cheaper than Amazon:
http://www.skygeek.com/pliobond-p351-adhesive-general-purpose-1-oz-aircraft-braking-systems.html?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_content
Take Care!
Frank
BTW: I use the DAP Weldwood original contact cement....for many yrs. I lightly sand the bottom of rail....will take off any oxidation on rail and produce a better bond
Mike, I've not used ME flex track, mostly because the Atlas flex was cheaper and more flexible, making it easier to form free-flowing curves. Much of my layout doesn't use predetermined curves, but rather ones which fit into the available space - not less than 30" on mainline track, though.
One of the main reasons for using the CV ties is cost: I got about 60' of tie strips for ten bucks when my LHS had a going-out-of-business sale....too bad that they didn't have some cheap rail, too. Atlas flex, at a good hobbyshop nearby, is currently at, I think, eight bucks a stick.I do like the look of the CV ties, though, and am currently adding industrial tracks using CV branchline ties. Were I building another layout, I'd seriously consider using code 70 rail on CV ties for all of the mainline, and perhaps lighter rail on the branchline ties for the rest of it.
While the gluing method is a suggestion in the CV instruction sheets, their main line tie strips have moulded-on spike and rail anchor detail which is intended to be mashed-over, using a nailset, to hold the rail in place. This proved to be very tedious work, and the first train to use the newly-laid track did an HO scale version of rolling one of the rails. It wasn't truly a rolled rail (about 12' soldered together), but several feet of it did pop free of the mashed-over plastic. I pulled it all up, breaking off any remaining rail anchors, and re-did it using the contact cement. While it hasn't yet had much traffic on it, it appears to be very well secured, and all subsequent track layed on CV ties has been done in a similar manner.The 1' tie strips, cemented together using solvent-type cement, are extremely flexible and allow easy shaping to explore possible placement where I don't have any preconceived ideas about where the track should go. Once that's been decided, I put down cork roadbed (when needed) and the tie strips using contact cement, then follow with the rails. The cork placement is quicker than on the rest of the layout, where I used yellow carpenter's glue and had to allow it to dry at least overnight, whereas the separate applications of ties and rail does take longer than simply spiking flex track in place.Much of the upper level is flex track (spiked in place - faster than caulk and easy to alter or remove at any time), mainly because I had a case of it on-hand, but I think that the CV ties are a viable alternative, especially where cost is a factor. I was also fortunate that a friend donated a number of new Shinohara, Peco, and ME turnouts, rendered surplus when he altered his layout plan.With the current state of the Canadian dollar, buying new model railroad stuff, for me, anyway, is severely curtailed. Perhaps that'll help to get some of those long-deferred projects, where all of the materials are on-hand, back onto my workbench.
I have used (original) Barge to glue down rail to CV ties with great success. I have never had a bond break in ten years. I recently removed some rail and had to agressively scrape the rail and ties to get the glue off. I have developed some techniques that probably most wouldn't use, but to do the job right I think they are necessary. At this time (end of 2017) the original Barge is available, in quarts only, at leather supply stores and maybe shoe repair stores. I wouldn't use the new stuff.