I have finished the track work on my 2 x 10 switching layout. Extremely happy with the track plan.
I used my old code 100 Atlas track and turnouts. Everything works fine after a lot of tweaking. I have read and it seems to me code 83 seems to be the predominate rail size for mainline and smaller codes for sidings and such. In fact I see less code 100 and more code 83 on Walthers.
I would like to slowly convert all my turnouts to Peco, ME or Walthers and convert all track to code 83. The look of the track is much more important to me now then when I was younger. The problem is I can't afford to replace whole sections at a time. Buying 15 new turnouts with track at one time is not possible after seeing current prices. I know I can use transition joiners and or transition track between the new 83 and old 100 so it would be possible to replace a little at a time.
My question is, should I replace a little at a time or save my money for a few months and replace entire sections?
I'm thinking one code 83 turnout with code 100 rail on all three ends would cause problems even with transition joiners.
Pat Bandy
I think I would change one or two switches at a time, with at least 12" of code 83 connected to all ends of the switch. A three foot section of flex track at each end would be even better.
I have an awful lot of code 100 and code 70 bought many years back when it was Lambert that brought in Shinohara track. I am reusing all of it because of the cost .I will use code 83 when the current supply runs out. If yo have not tried it, painting your track both rails and ties will go a long to improving the look of even the code 100.
Ron High
Good info, thank you guys
Ron, I did paint it and it looks good. I don't have any problems with the 100 track but I don't like the Atlas snap switches after buying a Hornby No.2 code 100 turnout. I've had one Atlas turnout just fail (they are 35 years old) to conduct power from one end to the other when the day before it was just fine. I took it apart and corrosion was the culprit.
The power routing and point clips with the Peco turnouts, as in the Hornby, is what I want. I thought I would change over to 83 while I convert.
Just do the "mashed rail joiner" trick, flatten half a joiner, solder to bottom of smaller rail, slide the other half onto larger rail, instant transition joint. You only need the vertical height the same, and aligned ends. Bottom matching up affects nothing.
If you were using ME track, the trick is to take the smaller ME rail, add a rail joiner from ME for the correct size, like ME 83 rail using a ME 83 joiner, pushing it all the way onto the smaller rail, then sliding this rail & joiner combo into half of the larger rail with an Atlas joiner, does code 70/83 and 83/100 joints perfectly. But, ME joiners will simply not fit onto Atlas rails.
But for Atlas to Atlas, "mashed joiner" works well.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
IgnatoskyI've had one Atlas turnout just fail (they are 35 years old) to conduct power from one end to the other when the day before it was just fine. I took it apart and corrosion was the culprit.
At 1981 prices that's probably 10 or 15 cents a year. You got your money's worth. Your question is really one of personal preference, which boils down to your personal psychology. I would prefer to do a bunch at once. But I am not you.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
If I were You......I'd save My money and get the track and switches that were all the same. Mixing new code 83 switches with Atlas snap switches....You'll find that Your track plan will not be the same and You will be able to get more into the plan than the snap switches would allow. Also the other switches can have the frogs powered, whereas the Atlas snap switches frog cannot be powered. Very useful on a slow speed switching layout. Can easily be powered with a SPDT slide switch, with a hole drilled through the slide handle, attached on it's side under the center hole of the turnout, with a piece of brass rod or music wire glued into the slide hole, controlled by a caboose ground throw. I had a shelf layout 2x6x10 L shape,My desk and dresser were under it. Track consisted of Atlas custom-line 4's and Atlas flex-track....worked flawlessly! Did not use roadbed either. Everything was layed on 1/2'' Homasote over 1/2' ply, with a 2 inch skirt/facia to hide wiring.
Your choice...... I learned ''patience'' a very long time ago, so waiting was not a problem......not a lot of modeling money back in the 50's.
Good Luck!
Frank
RR_Mel If you’re into a do it yourself mode check out the joiner post on my blog.
Great info Mel, thank you for the link. I will try that along with the mentioned mash rail joiner.
Still don't know how I want to proceed. Have plenty to think about.
why not use a file to make sure all your rail joints are the same height and have no abrupt edges
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
Because the turnout geometry is significantly different between the brands you are using now and planning for the future, a layout built with one type won't easily be changed out one piece at a time with new components.
There will likely be a substantial amount of re-design and re-work except for the simplest plans -- and that might be needed as soon as you replace the first turnout.
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
cuyama Because the turnout geometry is significantly different between the brands you are using now and planning for the future, a layout built with one type won't easily be changed out one piece at a time with new components. There will likely be a substantial amount of re-design and re-work except for the simplest plans -- and that might be needed as soon as you replace the first turnout.
Very good point. I was afraid the geometry might be different amoung brands.
I have two four track ladder yards facing each other with a run around in between. When I replaced the old snap switch, I cut down the snap switches to obtain 1 3/8" centers on one of the ladder yards. Nice and tight. I soldered the joints together instead of joiners and filed everything down. It's nice and works great. No derailments just a few dips I don't care for but it is a yard so slow is the rule. Was my first try at customizing trackwork. I love to solder.
So you are right Cuyama. I will need to replace more then one at a time. I think I can do it with replacing 4 or 5 turnouts at a time. The layout is more then just two ladder tracks.
I really want to invest in some Fast Tracks equipment to hand lay my track and turnouts. It seems so easy. I've tried hand laying a crossover using some scrap Atlas flex track. Using cheap CA adhesive, I failed but did get some good ideas for my next try.