Just yesterday I put in a new siding and had a couple of spaces to fill. Using the cut off ties from the flextrack, I carefully cut off the protrusions on the top, and ran a flat file over them. They slide right under the track, and with a drop of glue they blend right in. I've been doing this for years, and it definitely works.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
This is also an issue for those who cut away the infamous "D" at the end of sectional track.
I bought some plastic "extra" ties - maybe Micro Engineering? -- but then realized I had such a huge supply of ties cut away from my flex track that I decided the time spent filing away the molded on spike heads or Atlas shoeboxes was still worth while. I don't bother doing too careful a job, as once the track is laid and ballasted and things are weathered, you hardly notice this or that tie size or texture.
Dave Nelson
riogrande5761 It's just part of track laying and never been a big deal; yes it takes some time if you've got a lot of track laid; my yard is going to take some time to get all those gaps filled.
It's just part of track laying and never been a big deal; yes it takes some time if you've got a lot of track laid; my yard is going to take some time to get all those gaps filled.
I recall just using a square Xacto blade on extra ties to cut the rail bumps off and sliding the ties underneath, with a tad of clear silicone to hold it in place.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
For flex track ties, I use a needle file the same width as the rail joiners to increase the depth of the area where the rail joiner will sit. Once they're slipped into place and ballasted, they're not noticeable.
On the most recent portion of my layout, I'm using Central Valley tie strips with code 83 rail. When I began laying track, the only joiners available locally were for code 55 rail, and not wanting to wait for proper ones, I gave it a shot with those. Using a cut-off disc in my Dremel, I narrowed the base of the rail (from both sides), then used the disc to thin the bottom of what remained until the joiner slipped on easily. Since the rail is easier to solder together before laying it, all of the rail fit onto the ties without altering either ties or joiners.
Wayne
I've just taken spare ties left over from flex track and used my sprue cutter (used to cut small parts from kit model sprues) to cut the molded on ties off - it only takes a few seconds each. Most of the time I can slide those under to fill the gaps where the tracks are joined, but sometimes I need to file them down a bit but not much. It's just part of track laying and never been a big deal; yes it takes some time if you've got a lot of track laid; my yard is going to take some time to get all those gaps filled.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Rather than mess around with plastic, I use wood ties.
All this track is Atlas code 83, and I used 6X8 scale stripwood or Micro Engineering wood ties under all the joiners. The material is just thin enough to slip under the joiners without creating a vertical kink, and nearly disappears among the plastic ties after weathering. They have an extra advantage of never melting when feeders and joiners are soldered.
Based on the photo on the Atlas site, I think the extra tie pieces would need to be shaved to fit under joiners, or else use the odd-looking disconnected segments intended to fit around them from the end. They don't look like an improvement over using leftover flex track ties.
Rob Spangler
I have built a dozen layouts in my lifetime and always used flex-track and filled the tie gaps with shaved down left over ties. I've finished laying track on my latest layout but 150' feet of track is a lot of filing. Has anybody tried the Atlas extra ties (150-598). Do they need to be shaved to fit under rail joiners? Thanks - Bill