Peco turnout problem

[Erie-diamond]

I'm using Peco medium rad code 100 insol-frog turnouts on my DCC layout. They work flawlessly. Now, the problem. Due to limited budget and my 74 year old body doesn't work well hunched under the layout to do the wiring, I planned to control them all manually with ground throws. For reasons to numerous to put here I decided to go ahead and control them remotely. Rather then tear out trackage to drill holes for under table motors, I purchased four Peco PL-11 side mount motors and installed them and they don't look too bad. I just finished wiring them and they work fine with the exception that the throw bar that fits over the nub of the turnout pops off when the switch is thrown. I'm thinking maybe a drop of glue would work to correct this since the both are a straight line movement. Has anyone had this problem and would my idea work?

[RR_Mel]

I haven’t had that problem but I’d give it a try.  You might trying Amazing Goop as it remains slightly flexible when fully cured.  Goop is very sticky to apply and can be a bit annoying to use but I do like it’s supper sticking strength as well as the flexibility.  Works great for mounting motors, it’s rubbery makeup absorbs noise and vibration.    

 

 

 

Mel

 

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

[Erie-diamond]

Thanks Mel. I'll try that. I purchased four of these motors for use on my two crossover tracks. I've just wired the crossover and the other motor works just fine. There just seems to be a lot of vertical "slop" on this one. Thanks, Ken

[RR_Mel]

I’ve been replacing my ancient Atlas turnouts (25 yrs) with Pico turnouts and at 79 I don’t do well on my knees either.  I left enough slop in the rail joiners that the old Atlas turnouts come out easily.  I replace the Pico using the under the layout switch machine by drilling a 2¼” hole and drop the turnout in place then cover the hole with thin sheet Styrene.  I redo the ballasting and scenery, after 25 plus year it needs that too.  Much better on the knees working from the top.

 

 

 

Mel

 

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

[jjdamnit]

Hello all,

I experienced the same problem with the PL-11's and here's how I solved it.

The underside of the pin on the throwbar is hollow. I took a 3/64-inch drill bit and drilled through.

I bought 0-80 1/4-inch machine screws, 0-80 hex nuts, #0 and #1 washers.

The #1 washer went on top, the #0 washer went on the bottom along with the hex nut. I put a dab of "Blue" threadlocker to hold everything in place.

Now the throwbar does not "jump" the pin when actuated.

Hope this helps.

[Erie-diamond]

Thanks for all the replies. I solved the problem by applying a dab of Elmers glue to the joint and worked it in by manually working the turnout. the glue is strong enough to keep it in place, but yet weak enough that it can easily be popped off if ever needed to be.  BTW, I like the looks of these switch machines better then the Atlas ones. After I paint them silver and get the ballasting done I think they well look pretty much of what I see on the real railroads.  Ken

[Erik]

I really like the Peco switches and the PL-11. The under the table Peco switch machines work (and look good as they are invisible) but are semi challenging to install and line up with the pin.