I am a very happy camper. I have installed and tested the PSX-1 circuit breaker and 2 PSX-ARSCs. My 2 reversing loops are fully automated. There are 2 pictures I want to show you. The first is a PSX-ARSC installed and working in conjunction with an Atlas Snap Relay #200 and an Atlas Remote Switch Machine #585. The next picture will be of the Atlas Snap Relay and I will talk about that before that picture is displayed.
In the picture below you will notice there are 2 input wires at the bottom of the picture and 2 output wires at the top of the picture. The output wires go directly to the track. In the case of the PSX-1 it actually goes to a star bus that provides several feeds to the Power District that is my main layout.
I have one DCC Booster District. The output from my PowerCab goes to 2 terminal strips. One for each wire. I have 3 DCC Power Districts. Each of my 2 reversing loops is a power districe and the rest of my layout is a power district. Each power district is separated by rail insulators on both sides of the track leading to it. Each power district has its own leads going to the 2 terminal strips that my PowerCab feeds. Those are the Input wires seen below. I use a DCS PSX-1 for my main layout power district.
I use a DCC PSX-ARSC for each of the power districts that make up my reversing loops. All of the PSX units are circuit protectors. The ARSC is both a circuit protector and an automatic reversing unit. The wiring for the PSX-1 would be identical except there would be no wires on the left side like the picture below.
On the right side of the picture you will notice that I am jumpering the 1 and 2 pins on J6. This is necessary when using the NCE PowerCab. It limits the current to 1.27 amps. You need to do this on the PSX-1 board as well.
On the left side of the picture you will notice 3 wires attached to J9. There is a green wire at pin 1, a black wire at pin 2 and a red wire at pin 3. Pin 4 is not used with the Atlas Remote Switch machines and the Atlas Snap Relays. The black wire is my common wire. The green wire is for the turnout's normal position and the red wire is for the turnout's switched position. I will continue with the next picture.
The next picture shows 5 of the 7 Atlas Snap Relays I am using. Each Snap Relay is paired with an Atlas Switch Control Box #56. The Atlas Remote Switch Machines have three contacts - a green, a black and a red. There is a green, black and red wire going to each Switch Control Box and each Snap Relay that is paired with it. Below the table each pair's green, black and red wires are attached to the green, black and red wires from the Switch Machine they control.
The wires on the left of the Snap Relays are used to control the leds below. There is a green and red led below each Switch Control Box - they represent whether the turnout is in its normal or switched position. If you notice the left side of the first Switch Control Box has 2 wires going to it. They come from a seperate AC power supply that I use to control the Switch Machines. The Switch Control Boxes are all attached to each other and those wires feed them all.
I have detached the green, black and red wires from the left 2 switch contol boxes. I did that under the table. The wires for those 2 switch control boxes that you see in the picture below are capped and not attached to anything. I was using those 2 switch control boxes to control the 2 turnouts used by my reversing loops.
The left 2 switch control boxes are no longer in use. I have attached the green, black and red wires from each of the left 2 Snap Relays to each of the 2 Switch Machines that control my reversing loop turnouts. Each of those green, black and red wire pairs are connected to the pins of the J9 on the appropriate PSX-ARSC. Those are the wires coming in on the left of the above picture.
When a locomotive proceeds through the reversing loop, the PSX-ARSC automatically flips the Atlas Remote Switch Machine and the Atlas Snap Relay it is paired with.
I did not have to use the Snap Relays, but the left side of each Snap Relay provides power to either the Green or Red led that I use with each Switch Machine. All of the leds that are on in the picture below are green. If a turnout was switched, the green led would go out and the red led to the right of it would turn on.
On the right side of each Snap Relay is another set of terminals that are not in use. I could wire that side to provide power to something else that works in conjunction with the turnout - a signal or a crossing gate or whatever.
I am new to all this and I find the Snap Relays to be very useful. I plan to use the terminals on the right eventually. The sides of the Snap Relays are just switches that can be used to power either AC or DC items. The leds I am using are getting their power from the tracks through the switchs on the left side of the Snap Relays.
I hope all this is clear and helpful to anyone who is just getting started. The book I am reading is The DCC Guide - Second Edition by Don Fiehmann. It is an excellent primer for DCC.
The reversing loops are now installed. Tomorrow I deal with the switch machines and the snap relays. Keeping my fingers crossed on the snap relays. If the AR;s can trip the switch machines they ought to be able to trip the snap relays if they are wired in parallel.
That's my story and I'm stickin to it.
Thanks Dave, there's the old "that what doesn't kill you makes you stronger" adage. Aside from learning a bunch of new stuff, I'm also coming away with a sense of the dedication model railroaders must have to their craft/layouts.
This is a far cry from setting up the trains to circle the Christmas tree. I will be posting pictures of the PSX wiring when I am done. I am going to try using them in conjunction with my Atlas Snap Relays so I can continue to light up the leds for the reversing loops on my control panel.
Hi Brendan:
You are making lots of progress as usual!
I'm glad to hear that you are studying DCC carefully. Just be aware that DCC can throw a few curve balls at you from time to time. If that happens, don't start tearing things apart. Ask for help first. I have found that almost all of the 'problems' that I have experienced had simple solutions, usually supplied by forum members.
I also want to congratulate you on starting such an interesting thread. Not very many threads get this many views and responses.
Here's hoping things go smoothly from here on in.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Okay its been a few days since I last posted. Several things happened:
1. I had no locomotives to use on the track. I have one on order and it should be in soon.
2. My dealer is giving me a store credit on the DCS Commander and refunds on the 2 locomotives, but he has to wait until he goes to MTH tomorrow.
3. I got the DCC Power Cab Starter in and hooked it up. It is powering the track as it should and I have consistent power all over the layout.
4. I've gotten in a PSX-1 circuit breaker and it is installed and working just fine. I strongly recommend it. It was easy to install.
5. I've gotten in 2 PSX-ARSCs - one for each of my reversing loops. They also are circuit breakers. I am on the verge of installing them but I have to get thinner screws to mount them on my table. The mounting holes on them are actually smaller than the holes on the PSX-1 - go figure.
6. I have obviously adjusted my wiring for DCC and it didn't amount to much. I am ever so thankful.
7. I also got a RRAmpMeter III. I am using it to test track voltage and amperage. It is a nice unit. It is more accurate than my multimeter at the lower voltages and I can eventually wire it in line so I can constantly monitor.
When I am done installing all the PSX units I will post details on how I wired and jumped them. It is nothing heavy, but in case anybody is interested it will serve as a simple explanation. The ARSC units will also automate my turnouts. I'm using Atlas remote switch machines and there was nothing I found that spoke to them specifically. You also have to set a voltage jumper on all the PSX boards when using the NCE controllers.
I am almost finished with the first book I got on DCC. I strongly recommend getting a book or two if you are going to build a layout.
I have gotten consistently good advice here. I have a ways to go, but it's never a bad time to say thank you.
Will do Brendan, but on a separate threat not to hijack this one.
Jack W.
Hey Jack, let us know how you fare. Good luck.
Thanks Brendan, I will give it a try it may prove easier then latex cault.
Hey Jack, the rolls of ATG tape I have are 1/2 inch x 36 yards. It didn't matter if I was on a curve or a straight away. I traced the outline of the roadbed on the table top first.
I believe the roadbed was harder to apply then the track would have been, because roadbed is flexible and track is rigid. If I was applying the track directly to the table top, I would used my ATG gun because I could just roll it between my traced track outline on the tabletop and then place the track on top of it.
Thank you Brendan for the feed back. I am building some lightweight (featherweight) modules for show and want to use ATG tape to secure the tracks directly to the plywood, no roadbed. One more question what is the with of the tape you used and was it difficult to follow curve ?
Hey Jack, I've made some royal mistakes here, but the one thing I am rock solid on is the ATG tape. I used it to secure the trackbed to the tabletop without any problem. It made it so easy. I believe I could have used it to secure the track either to the trackbed or the table top, but I did not want to risk that. I nailed the track down on top of the trackbed.
I have used ATG tape for years in other areas and I have a good feel for it. It has proven to be a Godsend in so many ways.
I did not use my ATG dispenser to a apply the tape. I would cut a strip the entire length of the trackbed I was going to apply and then peel it back manually as I went on. I hope that is clear. Let me know if it isn't.
Let me know if there is something you were thinking about that I did not cover.
A question for ou Bredan, did you experiment further with ATG tape, if so what is your recomendation ? The idea is apealing to me.
Thanks Dave. I'm going to take my time before jumping into another engine. I'm working through the first of the books I got on DCC. It's helping me get oriented. There was nothing like it out there for DCS.
I'm returning the steam engine and the DCS Commander tomorrow. I've already returned the diesel. I will be getting a credit on my charge card so I have a few days to wait before that goes through.
When I started this in March, I had no idea what I was walking into. 60 years ago trains like these didn't exist. If the last time I had a phone was in the mid 1950s and I went to get a phone today assuming that a phone was a phone I'd be in big trouble.
Welcome to the digital world.
Thanks Ulrich, I'll take a look.
I'm with Ulrich on the appearance of modern locomotives. EMD E and F series are my favourites too.
However, that is not a criticism of your choice for a diesel. Atlas has a great reputation. Rarely, if ever, do you see negative comments about them. Actually, I can't remember any bad comments at all. Safe bet! Also, your grandkids might relate better to a modern engine especially if you were to do some railfanning with them.
Rich strongly recommended BLI steamers and I'm pretty sure he knows his stuff (read - certainly sure). Personally, I would follow his advice as you are doing.
Brendan,
I am a steam freak, so the PRR H10 would also be my choice. However, I don´t fancy the rather utilitarian look of modern Diesels, lacking any design, so the GE Dash 8-40B would not be on my shopping list. I´d prefer a EMD F7, the best designed Diesel ever made in the US - in my humble opinion!
I like what you say about smart phones and computers!
Hey Dave, I'm looking at these 2 engines:
Atlas Master Line Gold Series HO 10001820 GE Dash 8-40B, CSX #5931 (YN3, Blue, Yellow) (Equipped with DCC and Sound)
Broadway Limited Imports HO 2322 H10s 2-8-0 with West Tender, Pennsylvania Railroad #8421 (Paragon2 Sound/DC/DCC Equipped)
If anybody knows any reason why these engines should not be joined be joined in model railroading with this man, speak now or forever hold your tongue.
Het Rventura, Alas I have no smart phones. The truth is I studiously avoid smart phones. I had one for a brief time and it made me crazy. There were too many apps that were installed with it by the manufacturer and I never really understood what I could get rid of and what I couldn't. It also didn't work in my location.
Computers I have. They are running Windows 7. I have no use for Windows 8, 8.1 and 10. They remind me of the smart phone. They all represent the transition from computer to endless, in-house marketing machine that is going on now. Add to that subscription software, which I would never have, and you realize that the sales predators have stepped it up a notch and want to reside with you 24/7.
Hi rventura:
Your suggestion is certainly viable if the phones and the computor are readily available.
Hi Brendan. I just read this whole thread. You've certainly been on a journey haven't you? One of your earlier DCC questions was what you'd need to run multiple trains. All the responses talked about getting additional UTP panels and throttles. Another approach would be to use the Wi-throttle app for smartphones. This is available for both iOS and Android.
To use it you'd need to set up a PC with JMRI (Java Model Railroad Interface) software and get an NCE USB interface for your PowerCab. There are plenty of threads about how this is done. You have a software background so it should be a piece of cake for you. It's likely you have one or two phones that you could use, and I'm willing to bet you have an old PC lying around as well.
This provides a low cost way of adding throttles to your setup. And they communicate wirelessly to the computer running JMRI, which then sends commands to the PowerCab and your trains. The Wi-Throttle software has a free evaluation version. The full version is only about $10. This is what I intend to do when I get my layout built. I have all the bits, I just need to put them together. I had a spare room earmarked for a layout, then my youngest daughter decided to move back home.
Hey Dave, Thanks. When I get a locomotive I like detail. So if I find something that looks real, then what decides is the colors and whether or not the kids like them.
Brendan:
The diesel locomotive recommendations you have received so far are rather general. Do you have a specific type of locomotive or a particular era in mind? That might help to narrow down the suggestions.
Personally, I think the EMD E and F series 'covered wagons' are the most beautiful diesel locomotives ever built. In particular, I love the E6s with the increased rake on the nose, but I don't know if anybody if manufacturing them today. Mine is an older Life Like P2K version.
Anyhow, narrow your choices down if you can, or choose an era. Having said that, neither criteria is essential to your plans. Its just what strikes your fancy.
Regards
Thanks Ulrich.
Good decision, Brendan - and a friendly dealer, too!
I had a Bowser Executive Line F7 and I was very much impressed by its detail and quality.
Thanks Dave.
Hi Brendan,
I'm so glad to hear that you got your money back for the MTH stuff!
I would add InterMountain to Rich's list, at least for diesels. They now use Loksound decoders which is a good thing.
Thanks Rich.
Brendan Buschi Hey Rich, so what about diesels?
Hey Rich, so what about diesels?
Rich
Alton Junction
Brendan Buschi Okay - my dealer is refunding me for the 2 locomotives and the DCS Commander. I am turning a new page.
Okay - my dealer is refunding me for the 2 locomotives and the DCS Commander. I am turning a new page.