What should I do in the short term to plan for the long term

[joe323]

Onwards! to my real question.  Three things strike me that I should do, just in case:

1) Drill holes for tortoise throwbars just in case I change my mind or my kids want to install them.  Yes much easier now than later

2) Create Power Districts now, in case I decide to expand the empire. Similar answer Its easier to isolate sections when installing track than later on  if you don't districts now you can run jumper wires underground around the insulators and cut them later when you are ready. So at least drill the holes

3) Drop wires to the frogs.  I know some people seem to have no problem running DCC with dead frogs, and maybe I won't either, but I'd rather have wires in place.

I assume by this that you are saying that you might wire the frogs later on.  I am not sure about this one if you are serious about moving this are just wires that will get in the way.  Wire the torts/ coils when you are ready to install.  just predrill the holes don't forget some holes where you modules join to run future wires. By the way I did drill holes for this on the SIW but for economic reasons I installed the Caboose throws and and am happy with how they work

Finally passing on the layout is not really my problem.  I designated my 16 year old cousin who is a Lionel guy to take whatever he wants if anything from my HO layout and dispose of the rest as he sees fit.

 

[Anonymous]

What does "long term" mean for you?

For me, I wouldn´t attempt to think ahead more than just a couple of years. The speed of change in this our world has increased so dramatically, that any long term planning has become a rather meaning less undertaking. Even if your circumstances of life don´t change that much, interests might shift and you may be heading a completely different direction in a few years time.

Enjoy your layout today and don´t worry about tomorrow.

[John Busby]

Hi Big Daddy

Let's start with the obvious that often gets forgoten at track plan stage.

Plan the track so it can easily be extended preferably with not much more on the existing, than flicking off a couple of bumpers that can be re used on the extension.

Also set up your prefered method of joining the moduals now the joining plates for the next boards can be strapped up underneath out the way for later or the templates as the case may be. Also write on them what they are so they don't get used for that something for the part your working on.

Set up for prefered point motors as you build so you can add them with ease later including any wiring that may need pre doing including point frogs.

Not quite sure what you mean by power districts but it sounds like you want them. So set them up and get them working the less time spent messing about later with wiring after stuff is already built on top the better.

You mention the universal issuie so make as much as you can yourself that gets cost down a bit.

Forget the inheretance or what happens to the layout after your gone it is for you to enjoy while your here, so if you can make it or want it do so and make every moment of the layout time as pleasurable as you can.

A good 95%+ of layouts end up at the council tip anyway

A) Because its easy B) Because its only great uncle Bulgaeria's trainset and no value is seen in it. and C) because most people just can't be bothered to get the local MRR club etc to help realise any real value it does have if you have the right pieces.

It only has any value to another model railroader some pieces might draw in the collectors, so it has to be sold off in the right market to realise any value to start with

At that sort of time most people just can't be bothered with train sets they are to busy focusing on what seems the more important things, thats if they can still think properly at the time.

regards John

 

[hardcoalcase]

On layout construction, I’d recommend building modules about 18” to 24” wide, up to 8 feet long (so they would fit in any small room).  They would be built on sturdy frames, depending on size using 1” x 2” to 1”x 4” lumber ripped from multi-ply ¾” plywood for stability (regular dimensional lumber is prone to warping and twisting).  These would be attached to a sub frame – which could be any method such as sturdy shelf brackets, L girders or 1”x 4” grid work.  At each new layout, you can quickly construct a new sub frame to fit the space, secure the modules in place and fill in the gaps with new modeling.  You could be running trains in a few weekends.  With the modest module depth, you can add track in front or behind the module and still have a manageable 30” or 36” reach to the wall or island center, which makes them more usable for larger future layouts.  

When recycling the modules, it would be prudent to give consideration to rail height and track brand preferences.   If you think using a near-scale rail, such as code 70 or 55 (HO) for yard tracks might be important, now would be a good time to make that decision. Track ballasting might be deferred until you are somewhat sure that the layout (or at least the module) was a keeper because once you ballast, recycling the track becomes more of a challenge.

Peco turnouts are good performers for manual operation, but for any brand of turnout, pre-wiring the frogs and drilling holes under the throw bar for future Tortoise installation is a no-brainer.  When you install Tortoises, pre-wire them by soldering wires connecting the Tortoise contact tabs to inexpensive solder tab/screw terminal strips.  Poke the wire through the hole (enlarge holes as necessary) and solder the wire end flat against the tab – this makes a bullet-proof connection.  Doing this makes the unit easy to install, adjust wiring, remove, and use the unit again and again as needed.  Pre-wiring the frogs would be part of this. 

Run all the module wires to a terminal strip, it makes connecting things to a future control panels/other modules easier.  Consistent color coding all the wiring is IMPORTANT, as are labels and documentation.

While DC for a two module layout would work fine, eventually DCC will be a given for an expanded layout, so you might as well start now.  For power/control, I’d recommend the NCE Power Cab beginner set because of the low cost of entry and the “nothing wasted” path to the full radio control package.  Others may have different opinions.  However, in general, I would be reluctant to invest in a full-blown system so early-on in layout development when the technology changes so quickly.  I wouldn’t be concerned about power districts at this point as each module can be one, or part of one, or changed easily if wiring protocols are followed.

Just some thoughts from one who built his “final layout” several times over..   and over…. and over!

 

Jim

[ndbprr]

Just like retirement set aside the money.

[MisterBeasley]

I started with a 5x12 foot table layout, which I built on legs with casters so I could roll it around the room.  Once my daughter went off to college, I was given permission to acquire more real estate for my trains.  Approaching retirement, I started to build out with more of an eye towards possible relocation.  While my layout is not "portabel," it is still built in reasonably sized pieces which could be unbolted.  The biggest problem would be the wiring.  I did some of it with terminal blocks at module edges, but a lot, particularly turnout control, is wired straight across.

Since I build my benchwork in the garage, I know that all the pieces are small enough to carry in and out of the trainroom.  If I were to move, I'd probably spend as much time dismantling the layout as I would putting it back together, carefully labeling all the wires and possibly attaching the rest of them to terminal blocks.

I doubt that a layout this size would ever go back together anywhere else in exactly the same configuration.  I'd have to cut things up and put them back together, and there are certainly things I'd do differently anyway.

I like building my layout even more than I enjoy running it, so it could actually be a lot of fun.

[richhotrain]

BigDaddy

Onwards! to my real question.  Three things strike me that I should do, just in case:

1) Drill holes for tortoise throwbars just in case I change my mind or my kids want to install them.  

2) Create Power Districts now, in case I decide to expand the empire.

3) Drop wires to the frogs.  I know some people seem to have no problem running DCC with dead frogs, and maybe I won't either, but I'd rather have wires in place.

Let me suggest two alternative approaches based upon my own experience.

If you install Tortoises, you not only have a way to automate the train routes without having to reach into the layout, but you can also use the Tortoises to power the frogs. Plus, you can use the Tortoises to power signals and light the control panels.

If you don't want the expense of Tortoises, consider using Peco Electrofrog turnouts with their spring loaded point rails. That way, you won't need to install manual ground throws which require fumbling with tiny throwbars.

Regarding power districts, go ahead and plan now for future expansion. Gap the rails to divide the layout into power districts and add some sub-buses from the start.  Drop feeders from the rails to these sub-buses now so that later it will be easy to add circuit breakers to control and protect the power districts.

Rich

[BigDaddy]

tgindy

First, build the new "L-Layout" benchwork into 2+ modules that can be easily "unbolted" for layout transportation and the expected sunnier-move, and; then plan power districts accordingly.  I'll defer to others responses to follow as to turnout and DCC planning.

I couldn't agree more.  My last layout could not be moved when I divorced.  It just wasn't built to be taken apart and reassembled, not that I had any place to move it. 

The subject of what happens after you die is worth another thread.  It is highly  situational as far as is the home empty, how far away are the heirs who are going to dispose of stuff, do they have time or even interest?  Are there heirs at all?  Some people out live their children, or have no children and are very much alone. 

I don't want this thread to morph into post mortum sibiling rivalries and appraisals.  If someone wants to start that thread I'll be happy to participate. 

 Let' stick to construction considerations in this thread please.

[cowman]

Your planning ahead is a good idea. 

The one I'll comment on is the power districts.  If what you are doing now is mostly a yard, it could all be one power district.  Your later addition(s) could be another one or two. 

Sadly most layouts do not last beyond the owner, unless they have family or friends interested in them.  As they have said above, rolling stock, structures and other removeable items have resale value.  If you are careful installing your track and turnouts they can be salvaged.  Some trees may be reusable if they are commercial or well made and carefully removed.

A list is a great idea. I have one and you can take portions of it to shows to keep you from purchasing duplicate car numbers.

Have fun,

Richard

[Lone Wolf and Santa Fe]

BigDaddy

What happens to the layout when I pass on?

Locomotives, rolling stock, structures, figures, and everything else have a resale value. I recommend creating a database of your inventory. It can be very helpful for insurance and estate planning. Your family won't know the value of your collection unless you tell them.

j........

[davidmurray]

From a position of almost complete ignorance on DCC I think that a Yard\Industrial switching layout implies at most two engines running,  Power blocks for trouble shooting, but power districts so that a booster can be utulized would seem unnecessary.  even a 8'x6' is not going to have a lot of power consuption.

I like caboose groung throws, because visitors can instantly tell what lever throws what turnout.  Yard tracks can be tricky.  Remember on Atlas turnouts the throw bar can be reversed for ground throw positioning.

As you said the layout inself may go when you do.  Anything hobby related that you buy today will be worth much less in 30 to 50 years.  Don't worry, have fun.

Dave

 

[tgindy]

First, build the new "L-Layout" benchwork into 2+ modules that can be easily "unbolted" for layout transportation and the expected sunnier-move, and; then plan power districts accordingly.  I'll defer to others responses to follow as to turnout and DCC planning.

[BigDaddy]

I am planning an L shaped switch, industrial/yard type layout.  The short term plan is to keep things simple for now because I want to leave this humid, cloudy high tax state for sunnier climates.  I will take what I build with me.

I am never going to build the round the room empire, but after the move, I may want to create a 6x8' rectangle for continuous running.  Or maybe not.

Call me cheap, but I can't see outfitting it with tortoise machines.  I had Rix machines on my last layout.  Caboose ground throws look appealing.  There is an elephant in the room.  What happens to the layout when I pass on?  I had to clean out my mothers house last year and I inherited her pack rat genes.  My kids might salvage the layout for the grandkids, or they might order a big dumpster.  Bottom line, I don't want spend a lot of dough on infrastructure that will get trashed.  Yes they could take it all apart and sell it on ebay, but practically, with them living far away, it's never going to happen.

Onwards! to my real question.  Three things strike me that I should do, just in case:

1) Drill holes for tortoise throwbars just in case I change my mind or my kids want to install them.  

2) Create Power Districts now, in case I decide to expand the empire.

3) Drop wires to the frogs.  I know some people seem to have no problem running DCC with dead frogs, and maybe I won't either, but I'd rather have wires in place.

What else should I do in Phase 1?  Am I correct in doing the 3 things above?

Thanks