I bought some 3-tab shingle sheets for a scratch building project. But, no hip and ridge shingles are provided.
What do others do on their scratch builds to cover those edges where roofers install individual hip and ridge shingles?
Rich
Alton Junction
Scissors, tweezer and glue application work was a bit tedious, but cut a strip of shingles into pieces and glued them on individually for the ridge cap on this small Campbells roof.
Regards, Peter
Look at the real thing and improvise. Even cutting paper to fit, paint color weather to match and good to go.
Lynn
Present Layout progress
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/p/290127/3372174.aspx#3372174
I tend to use strip wood to line up with the shingles, to my mind looks better than the indiviual ridge shingles as they tend to look too bulky, once you stain everything it looks great.
Well Rich, for a ridge, roofers cut the full shingle in to thirds, using the tabs as a guide, overlay them accoss the ridge, centered for equal coverage on both sides. Just the finished part of the shingle should show. The prevailing winds of the area would dictate which end of the ridge to start on. You want the wind to blow over the tabs, and not get under them.
For valleys, everybody is different. Some roofers "weave" the shingles together at the valley, some use a rolled roofing down the valley first, then apply the shingles, cutting them back at an angle, where they meet the opposing roof line, to match the angle of the valley, and some use a metal valley, with the shingles laid like the rolled roof valley, only the shingles are cut back a little, at an angle, to let a strip of the valley flashing show.
I would do my scratch build to match what I see in the 1:1 world.
How is that scratch build coming along?
Mike.
My You Tube
I use the L shape strip from evergreen. Paint to match roof or a sliver/gray for a metal look.
On a few I drew in lines after painting, to look like 1:1 cap, not sure it was worh the time
mbinsewi I would do my scratch build to match what I see in the 1:1 world. How is that scratch build coming along? Mike.
Hi, Rich,
I have used black masking tape to simulate roll roofing in some situations. If your building is not in the foreground and you want something Q & D you might consider that.
I bought a selection of different widths from this seller on the Bay...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25mx-3mm-Black-Masking-Tape-For-Painting-Decoration-Masking-5Rolls-/121857824039?hash=item1c5f4ad527:g:S4YAAOSwFL9Tra-s
I also bought several rolls of other types of adhesive tapes from the same seller. Some of the double-stick tape is handy for model RR projects.
Good Luck, Ed
Rich:
GCLaser offers ridge caps:
http://www.gclaser.com/ho-shingles-ridge-cap/
Rusty Stumps also offers ridge cap material but you have to cut it to size:
http://www.rustystumps.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D5016
I have no experience with either product.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Ed and Dave, thanks for those suggestions.
Dave, I had seen those two products before, GCLaser and Rusty Stumps. The one difficulty with using either one at this point is that the shingles have already been purchased. They will not match the ridge cap shingles unless I spray paint the entire roof after applying the ridge cap. I need to think about this and talk to Michael.
One solution, perhaps already mentioned, is to use strips of the shingle sheets that I have purchased to form the ridge caps. The one difficulty with that approach is that the ridge cap shingles will not be single shingles but, rather, staggered full and half shingles. But, that could be a reasonable compromise choice at this point.
Pardon my wee brain but I don't understand why the ridge and hip caps would be staggered full and half shingles. OK, I just figured out what you are doing. Can you not just cut out individual tabs and bend them over the ridges like the real caps are applied?
They way I see doing it would be to cut a horizontal strip of two rows of shingles and then cut that strip into individual tabs using the bottom row of shingles as a reference for cutting. The top half of the tab piece (i.e. the top row of shingles) will not be full tabs but that doesn't matter since they won't be seen once the tabs are overlapped when they are applied. Only the lower full tab will show. Does that make any sense?
Getting the individual ridge and hip caps lined up perfectly will be tricky. What I would suggest is gluing the caps in strips before applying them to the roof. Glue them to a sheet of paper and then trim the edges slightly with a straight edge so that they all line up straight. Then put a crease up the middle and apply them to the roof.
I do recognise that my method would be a lot more work, but it will look right.
hon30critter Rich: Pardon my wee brain but I don't understand why the ridge and hip caps would be staggered full and half shingles. OK, I just figured out what you are doing. Can you not just cut out individual tabs and bend them over the ridges like the real caps are applied? They way I see doing it would be to cut a horizontal strip of two rows of shingles and then cut that strip into individual tabs using the bottom row of shingles as a reference for cutting. The top half of the tab piece (i.e. the top row of shingles) will not be full tabs but that doesn't matter since they won't be seen once the tabs are overlapped when they are applied. Only the lower full tab will show. Does that make any sense? Getting the individual ridge and hip caps lined up perfectly will be tricky. What I would suggest is gluing the caps in strips before applying them to the roof. Glue them to a sheet of paper and then trim the edges slightly with a straight edge so that they all line up straight. Then put a crease up the middle and apply them to the roof. I do recognise that my method would be a lot more work, but it will look right. Dave
hon30critter Rich: Pardon my wee brain but I don't understand why the ridge and hip caps would be staggered full and half shingles. OK, I just figured out what you are doing. Can you not just cut out individual tabs and bend them over the ridges like the real caps are applied?
I started experimenting with fabricating a ridge cap by cutting strips off the full sheet of shingles. The shingles are made of adhesive backed paper. They stick extremely well to the styrene plastic but not so well to each other. So, it won't work to overlap them.
For that reason, I will just abut them and leave it for the time being. Maybe a solution will emerge later. Or, simply leave it as is. Being HO scale, it won't be that noticeable anyhow even if we did install a ridge cap.