Putting it right down the middle helps avoid conflict with cars parked along the side.
Here's an example...
https://www.google.com/maps/@38.5981298,-90.2034507,3a,75y,49.64h,75.51t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sTlT_uMonOFybBOEWpB3yCA!2e0!6s%2F%2Fgeo1.ggpht.com%2Fcbk%3Fpanoid%3DTlT_uMonOFybBOEWpB3yCA%26output%3Dthumbnail%26cb_client%3Dmaps_sv.tactile.gps%26thumb%3D2%26w%3D203%26h%3D100%26yaw%3D123.40359%26pitch%3D0!7i13312!8i6656
Steve S
Good to know, i was just wondering if there was some USRA recomended hullabaloo on the subject.
Lost in the snow
All are prototypical somewhere.
I tried to sell my two cents worth, but no one would give me a plug nickel for it.
I don't have a leg to stand on.
While im here i should probability ask where street running track should go in said street. assumming i have a two way city street with one lane each way and a parking lane each side, should the track run in one lane, split down the center, make the street wider or does it really not matter?
I would keep it simple.
No saw needed. A local lumber supplier would happliy cut a 1x4 or 1x6 to length. Sometimes they are already in 4 ft lengths, a good size.
Lighting could be tiny yellow LEDs. Some companies supply plug-and-play LEDs with bridges and current limiters to operate from 5 to 12v DC (or AC, the package has rectifiers), about $15 for 5 lights. The back of the half-building of thick cardboard to prevent light spill.
Trolly inside guardrails - for a first pass, I would use card or foam for the roadbed rahter than cast plaster. Cut the foam/cardstock/whatever surface to create clear flangways and not worry about true trolly track profile. First pass. I would play with that for a while and decide if I wanted to go to the bother of creating true guardrails.
BeringAs for the flangways how do you cut them, my only thought was to cannibalize the rest of my flextrack to make inside guide rails to create a form of sorts for the plaster.
If you want to use plaster: A less tedious method that simulates many prototype tracks in streets (particulary good for asphalt). You could just pour and smooth the plaster between the rails, then before it sets push by hand an old truck with pizza cutter (deep flage) wheels along the track. Then clean up the flangeway with a small file after the plaster has set. Messy but it works.
While many tracks in streets are girder rail (built in flangeway) or have rails laid alongside the running rails to contain the pavement , not all do.
Another method used was/is to you use brick, stone or even wood timbers (unusual today) to line the flangeway. Many modern instalations have prefabricated panels.
Modelers have used painted wood, illistration board, plastic and other sheet materials cut to fit to represent streets.
There arec also commercial products available.
Thanks for the help guys, the top two spurs are just long enough for the two 40' boxcars i currently have. The top spur goes into a building and the lower spur going to a loading dock next to the building. It is too close to have the dock on the building so im not quite sure what that will be, maybe a storage track. the lower track will be much longer and curve down away from the top two spurs. that i also really don't know what it will be, maybe a team track or possibly a unloading dock for a car/tractor dealership. If anyone has any ideas on what would make sense in a 50's vermont town that would be amazing. I think im going to go with the plaster simply for durability seeing as dorm life seems to destroy everyting at one point or another. I did mean code 55 rail, just derped up on the typing. As for the flangways how do you cut them, my only thought was to cannibalize the rest of my flextrack to make inside guide rails to create a form of sorts for the plaster. An inglenook is not as fun as what you described unfortunately, its a two turnout three siding switching puzzel. I guess that im am not truly creating a inglenook as the goal is not to creat a puzzel so much as finnaly have a place to run trains. I know that the rail ihad layed out is not in any sort of fixed position as i can't hook it to the desk in anyway before i get around to cutting out the plywood base. Seeing as saws are banned on campus that is going to be a pain and probabily have to be done about three in the morning some noght. Ugh. One final question, is there any general rule of thumb for the scenery space that should be infront of the rail, im trying to maxamise the amount of useable space i can keep on my desk.
Thanks for all the advice guys!
-Brian
What is an Inglenook? The only Inglenook I've heard of makes nice wine from the Napa Valley region of northern California! ;-)
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
BeringIt will be a street running layout (The streets are the paper and the inside border of the layout). Does anyone have any advice on how to create roads, i was thinking of using plaster of paris mixed with dye.
If you were modeling in HO, I'd recommend using 1mm craft foam with code 100 rail. I use black foam with gray paint sponged on. But that's probably too thick for N. I assume you meant code 55 rail, not code 5.
Here's a pic of it...
http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i347/Steven_A_S/asphalt4_zps3ea3a39b.jpg
They do make 0.5mm foam, but it's texture is different than the thicker sheets. It's more like cloth than foam. You could try it.
Someone once posted here wanting to know how to model street trackage in N without disproportionately large flangeways. I experimented with printing a texture onto paper. It can go the full width of the rails without interfering with the flanges. You don't need to mount the paper to anything. If you cut it to the proper width, it will press against the web of the rail and friction will hold it in place.
This is supposed to be concrete, but if you're familiar with GIMP, you could probably make an asphalt texture without too much problem.
Hi Bering,
I have an Inglenook myself, and it's a great small layout. First, as far as track layout and siding lengths, that is controlled by the loco and rolling stock you use. Forty two inches is plenty in N scale I would think, but remember the key lengths needed. Loco and three cars on the lead, five car capacity on the main siding and 3 cars each on the remaining two. (As an aside, if you haven't already seen it, I would recommend Adrian Wyman's excellent site, http://www.wymann.info/ShuntingPuzzles/index.html, for lots of info.)
Plaster will work for roads, but I wouldn't put the dye in it. It may have an unwanted effect on drying time or strength. Raw dried plaster will soak up dye like a sponge and allow you to color the roads in a more realistic manner.
Inglenooks are great fun and it sounds like you're on the right path to making yours. Have a ball.
Lou
After years of overplanning i have finally simplified my plans down to what i believe is a fesable plan. At this point it will be a 42" long N scale Inglenook layout on the back of my desk. I was wondering about a couple of things, for example how thi can i make buildings and still have lit windows. i currently have 1.5" allocated to buildings on the back center of the desk. It will be a street running layout (The streets are the paper and the inside border of the layout). Does anyone have any advice on how to create roads, i was thinking of using plaster of paris mixed with dye. On that is there any ideas on the spacing of the turnouts, none of the track is in any form of semiperminant location as i need to cut plywood bases out first. i have code 55 flex track i am planning on using but it is still in its package so that i do not kink it all up just having it lying around a college dorm room. Any help would be greatly appreciated as this will hopefully be a my first layout and it is FAR from ideal situations.