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Roadbed material?

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  • Member since
    November 2004
  • From: Baltimore, Maryland
  • 213 posts
Posted by jlcjrbal on Tuesday, November 30, 2004 9:51 PM
went with the 1 1/2 inch foam and could not be happier thanks for all the info guys Enjoy Joseph
  • Member since
    March 2002
  • From: Elgin, IL
  • 3,677 posts
Posted by orsonroy on Tuesday, November 30, 2004 12:24 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by mgruber

I would re-think using that 1/4" plywood. 1/2" or better will make a more stable fondation. Next aply the Homesote for your subroadbed. Cut it wide enough for your right-of-way. If you use any type of power saw, expect a large amount of dust. On top of that I use cork roadbed material. You can use 1/2" pink insulation board for the rest of your terrain. Just butt it up to the Homesote and carve in your ditches. Good luck.



You could go through all that work and expence, but why bother? If you're not handlaying rail, there's absolutely no need for Homasote on a foam-based layout. You'd be amazed at how dimensionally stable and strong foam is, which is why you don't really need any plywood under it at all. I use 1/4" Lauan to reduce the drum effect of the foam, and to give me a good mechanical attachment point to hang things under the layout (wires, lights, etc). 1/4" ply, 2" foam, and supports every 16" is more than enough benchwork for any layout up to O scale.

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • 106 posts
Posted by mgruber on Tuesday, November 30, 2004 12:02 PM
I would re-think using that 1/4" plywood. 1/2" or better will make a more stable fondation. Next aply the Homesote for your subroadbed. Cut it wide enough for your right-of-way. If you use any type of power saw, expect a large amount of dust. On top of that I use cork roadbed material. You can use 1/2" pink insulation board for the rest of your terrain. Just butt it up to the Homesote and carve in your ditches. Good luck.
  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Tuesday, November 30, 2004 10:37 AM
Depends on what you use for glue [:)]

I'm using plain old Elmer's white glue. It should be able to be easily peeled off, if there are any stubborn spots I can always wet it down a little. What I'm putting down now, I don't expect to change though until Stage 2, when I start expanding. Then I will need to rearrange the existing track a bit to connect with the planned expansion.

--Randy

Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    March 2002
  • From: Elgin, IL
  • 3,677 posts
Posted by orsonroy on Tuesday, November 30, 2004 9:34 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by jlcjrbal

Thanks.. But I still have to glue the track down which I am not ready to commit . I am still planning it out as far as scenery and ideas. I really like the 2" foam as I want to put a river along the tracks so is there anyotther way to tack track to foam for the time being Joseph


The biggest problem with foam layout construction is that you really have to glue down the track, since it won't take nails at all. That's sorta permanent. If you're not sure about track alignments, you could always use double sided carpet tape to temporarily hold the track in place. I tried it as a permanent way to lay track, and it didn't work at all. It holds, but not for more than a month or two, and really doesn't like it when you hold the layout sideways (I was trying it out on Ntrak modules, and the track slid off!)

A more permanent method would be to glue down cork roadbed, and then place the tracks with rail spikes. The spikes will work loose eventually, and the cork will be down semi-permanently, but it's less worrisome than glueing down track (cork's cheap enough to "waste" this way)

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
  • 13,757 posts
Posted by cacole on Tuesday, November 30, 2004 9:03 AM
Unless you have very substantial support, 1/4 inch plywood is eventually going to sag and warp, so you're going to need something that is rather stiff on top of it, such as foam that is at least 1 inch thick.
  • Member since
    November 2004
  • From: Baltimore, Maryland
  • 213 posts
Posted by jlcjrbal on Monday, November 29, 2004 1:04 PM
Thanks.. But I still have to glue the track down which I am not ready to commit . I am still planning it out as far as scenery and ideas. I really like the 2" foam as I want to put a river along the tracks so is there anyotther way to tack track to foam for the time being Joseph
  • Member since
    March 2002
  • From: Elgin, IL
  • 3,677 posts
Posted by orsonroy on Monday, November 29, 2004 12:49 PM
Pink foam and white glue will work well, if you want to be able to modify your track plan. I'd suggest at least 1" of foam on top of the 1/4" plywood (2" will allow for more belowgrade terrain features). As for roadbed, look into using 1/2" foam with cork on top of that, to get a much more realistic roadbed profile. And you won't need a router to add drainiage features to the foam: I use a snap-blade knife.

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

  • Member since
    November 2004
  • From: Baltimore, Maryland
  • 213 posts
Roadbed material?
Posted by jlcjrbal on Monday, November 29, 2004 12:12 PM
I just have a 1/4 " pllywood sheet on top of my bench and I have been looking at all the different photos on a few web sites trying to get inspired. I keep looking at the Homasote because I want to do a ditch with my router on the outside and inside of my tracks ( saw it on a photo and thaught it looked cool) but (A) I would have to have them cut it in half in order for me to get it home (B) the edges around the board are not attractive. I am also looking at the pink foam as a base but i do not think i can use my router on it and I do not want to glue my trak down as of yet...Any ideas.. Joseph

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