New Layout (around the Christmas tree)

[Anonymous]

After many years away from the hobby, I'm planning a Christmas tree layout in HO scale. Previous attempts were more trouble than they were worth due to falling needles. So, I've decided to raise the trackbed above the fray and run it around the room's beams 8' above the floor. The room is the cathedral-ceilinged living room of our post and beam home. The living room is about 14x20, but has a 14x11 open rectangle formed by the beams.

My plan is to build the layout in 8 sections using 1/4 x 1 1/2 splines to support the roadbed. The four corner sections will include the 24" radius 90 degree curves and the straight sections will join them. I'm thinking of a curb on the "inside" to help minimize the possibility of a derailed train falling off the sections, with a higher curb on the "outside" of the curved sections. I plan to pin the sections to get accurate and consistent joints and I will prewire each section with power and accessory wires with appropriate multi-conductor connectors at each end. I will support the sections with appropriate hangers attached to the beams. Access to the south section is available from a landing (between the railing spindles) that goes the length of the rectangle. Emergency access to other areas will be via ladder. Major work will, of course be done with the railroad sections in the shop, rather than installed in the room. That includes scenery, structures, signaling, etc. (I figure I can add width to the layout as necessary by putting plywood pieces in where desired.)

I plan to use Atlas nickel silver Code 83 flextrack attached to cork or mastic(?) roadbed. The initial trackplan will be a simple oval with a passing siding at the south straight section. Initially, I'll have the passing siding and mainline section wired as separate blocks to enable a "local" switcher to run around the room with a short consist, alternating with a road engine pulling a longer string.

A small portable control panel with the necessary controls and power pack will control things. It will plug in from below as well as from the landing.

I do have some questions that maybe someone can offer some advice on. The first is: does this sound nuts? I think it will work and my wife buys into it. But more experienced builders might see a major pitfall I'm overlooking.

The second is: I was planning to use cork roadbed, but then I saw some advertisements for a mastic material 1/8" thick that doesn't require nailing the track to it and can hold ballast without glue. Any thoughts?

Any comments in general would also be appreciated!!

Thanks in advance!

Steve

[jhugart]

Why not use wireless DCC for control? That way you can have your controlling equipment wired in one place, and only need a wireless throttle for operation.

The mastic material to which you refer is AMI Instant Roadbed, I think. Check the earlier pages in this section of the forum, since I believe there was a discussion of it in there. I suspect you may be happier with the permanence of cork roadbed.

[Anonymous]

Thanks Jacob!

I intend to go with DCC down the road, but I'm trying to keep the expenses down initially. I am fascinated with the technology available today and need to learn more about it to take full advantage. So I'm going slow for now.

I'm not familiar with the pros and cons of mastic vs. cork. You allude to cork being more permanent. Why is that?

Steve

[Wdlgln005]

With the cork roadbed, you attach it to the base with white glue. Some modelers also use pins or small nails until the glue dries. Ballast is then applied to give it a prototype look.

For a temporary layout for Christmas, you would be better off to use a plastic track sysem like Kato or EZttrak. It's made to be put together & taken apart easily. You cam always paint the plastic to make it look realistic. Kato trak is almost bulletproof, and comes in a wide variety of track components. In Nscale, i'd go with a starter set with a K1+K2+K3 packs. A double circle with a crossing will look very nice. The plastic lifts the track off the carpet floor. They also make a nice line of accessories to make an elevated station if you decide to go with that kind of trak plan. Kato designed their trak for the typical Japanese person that has no room for a permanent layout. You can try endless configurations until you find something you like, or just plan to add on more track next year!

[Anonymous]

It sounds like I could use Glenn's white glue method to attach the roadbed to the splines. I think it's good if I can get away without having to put a subroadbed between the splines and cork.

I am sort of stuck with the shape of the room and the beams - I don't have the floor option anymore.

Thanks for your help Glenn!

Steve