wp8thsub I painted some "replacement" window panes onto the flat finish
Rob's excellent industrial window treatments reminded me of this photo I snapped last month of the C&H sugar refinery in Crockett, Ca. Appears that the rusty colored panes are stained from the metal window frame corrosion. Often pieces of thin sheetmetal or wood are used as a temporary/permanant fix for a broken pane.
Regards, Peter
I have a few industrial buildings with large, multi-paned windows. I didn't want to put an interior inside them, but I did want lighting.
My solution was to use Canopy Cement to "glaze" the windows. Canopy Cement is thick enough to span the short spaces between the solid parts of the windows, and it hardens crystal clear. But, it does not harden flat, so the "glass" is more lens like, and impossible to focus through. So, you get a nice clear glass-like surface that light can shine through, but the viewer can not see into the building at all.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
For industrial buildings I have used old Xray film, The local lab gave me a sheet of old film or misprint when I told them why I would like it, Nice and opaque and suits factory type buildings,
Cheers from Australia
Trevor
Many thanks to all for your great suggestions and shared techniques. I'll include some pix of the building/pier area when I'm finally satisfied its far enough along to share.
Thanks guys! Jeff
If Your going to use colored construction paper...I see no reason to use dull-cote. I don't use dull-cote on any of the window glazing.
Take Care!
Frank
I use a variety of materials...mostly white frosted Acetate, very thin that You can get at a Artist supply store, I believe staples carry's it also or I also use just white ink-jet printing paper, even a brown paper/white paper bag will work. I use canopy glue to glue it to the backside of the window glazing. I use it also to make shades and curtains in windows. All My buildings have interiors on first floor, so there is no need to hide anything. I use a mixture of LED's and incandesants in all buildings.....a few samples:
In some buildings...one side wall is removable...LOL.
The back sides of these windows were sprayed with clear acrylic flat, then I painted some "replacement" window panes onto the flat finish. Since the coating isn't opaque, the color applied to the reverse side of the windows shows through.
Rob Spangler
I like to Dullcote the backs of the window panes, hides the emptyness while still providing an impression that something is going on in there.
Another option is to paint the inside of the the wall opposite the window a dark color.
I don’t paint the glass. I might one day want to build an interior. Instead I cut pieces of black construction paper to cover the windows. I just use clear Scotch tape to tape it on the inside. Depending on the structure I might also add curtains or blinds. The only time I would paint windows was if I was simulating painted windows like a business might have for promotions or when they don’t want anyone to see in for privacy etc.
I use the clear plastic that just about every thing comes in.Sweet rolls,toys modeling stuff. Just glue it to the inside and you can then paint or add curtains shades etc. I've already did a complete wall with a single piece, stuff is cheap enuff.
I also used scotch tape just tape over window inside, gives a dirty look
works for me
I'm sure there are a big variety of opinions on the "best way" to treat the "glass" in your building windows, so I'm seeking shared experiences on whats has or has not worked best for you. I'm adding a kit-bashed Walther's Red Wing Milling structure down on my harbor front. Since I'm NOT adding any interior detail as I have with nearly all my other buildings, I was going to paint the insides of the "glass" black, as I've seen in some of the how-to articles in MR. But I also recall reading someplace about dull-coating the windows to obscure the view. Wondering what you guys have done, and how well you liked the results. Thanks!