You only need to hem the bottom, the top can be folded over and we are not talking complicated sewing, mostly a straight line or two if backing is used, could be sewn in an hour for a large layout.
Thanks for all the suggestions!
I should have mentioned that the valance will be mostly curves.
Steve:
That is a great idea. The joists go the wrong way but there is nothing to stop me from putting up sheets of 1/2" plywood to screw into.
Lee:
I have a stud finder but I almost don't need it because whoever drywalled the garage did such a lousy job that nearly every drywall screw is visible. I don't have anything to locate wiring but since the weight won't be that great I don't need to use long screws.
Lion:
Unfortunately my ceiling is only 91", and there are two support beams that come down a further 8". The lights will be right in my face so I need to block them off.
Peter:
Thanks for the lead. I have the 75 year CD but it only goes to 2009. Maybe this will be my stimulas to get an all access pass.
Philip:
Your idea certainly would make it easy to get the masonite to conform to the curves. I think you go to the top of the list!
rrebell:
Your idea is certainly a lot easier on the head if you bump into it. I don't have access to a sewing machine but I do have a good tailor who I'm sure could make them up for a reasonable price. Hmmm.
Thanks again everyone!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
You could do what I have planned. I will use a 1x1 screwed to the ceiling and put up a cloth vallance that will be thumbtacked to the 1x1. If the fabric you chose is not thick enough you can do a backing on it.
Good morning Dave
What I did was run a 1x4 all the way around. The 1x4 is layed flat so the 3 1/2 " side is against the cieling and then screwed into the cieling joist thru the drywall. The masonite is nailed to the edge of the 1x4, then caulked, and painted. The straight sections of 1x4 were ripped from 3/4" plywood, and the curved sections I laid out on 3/4" plywood and cut on a bandsaw. You could use a jigsaw as well. I also routed a rounded edge on the side of the strip opposite the masonite. The continuous 1x4 has a series of electrical boxes for light fixtures, and 4' flourecent fixtures, connected with flex conduit.
Have fun with your new endevor
Philip
Dave,
The Dec. 2010 issue of MRR has Rod Stewart and his layout on the cover and also has an informative article about lighting and valance construction by Bob Chapman. I found the article of particular interest since I was using fluorescent tube lighting and desirous of the shadow box effect.
Good luck and regards, Peter
That all depends on your ceilings. Ceiling in train room of LION is 12-14' high. No valance necessary, it does not get into the picture. Train room of LION is an old classroom. It has two 8' long flourscent fixtures, two bulbs each. And they thought that that was enough light for kids in a classroom.
It is mostly enough light for the layout, since there are no shadows cast across the layout. Could be more light needed for working on the layout. Portable light stands are an option, but then they would be in the way, and the LION would (and has) knocked them over.
Part of the layout of the lion is on lower levels, and these could use lighting. The bottom level I do not bother to light... It is in a subway tunnel after all, and so only the platforms are lit. The second level is for the most part not covered by the upper level which is narrower and off set, Still the LION has mounted LED rope lighting under the upper level to iluminate the above ground scenery on this part of the railroad, but that is shielded from cassual view by the facia of the upper level.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
If you don't have one you might want to purchase a "stud finder"so there is no guess work where the ceiling joists are. It can also indicate were the electric wires are. I just screwed a 2"X 2" to the ceiling and screwed the Masonite to that. Of course if you want curves thats another problem. Curves and running parallel to to the joists could be handled by short 2"X2s" at 90 degrees to the facia with the facia screwed to the end of the 2"X2"
Good luck
Lee
You could put a screw eye up into the joist so that the 'O' is parallel to the fascia. Drill a hole near the top of the valance, and use a small bolt/nut to attach it to the screw eye. This depends on the direction of the joists. If they run parallel to your fascia, you may not get the valance to line up directly over the fascia. If they run perpendicular, then you won't have any problem finding the right spot.
Steve S
Hi everyone:
As my son gets closer to crossing the threshold for the last time as a resident , I am doing more and more planning for my long awaited layout. Tonight I spent some time estimating costs and materials for the layout room walls and the benchwork. I ran into a mental block when it came to how to support the lighting valance. It will be a simple masonite curtain about 14" deep and it will follow the outline of the fascia below it. The ceiling is drywall over ceiling joists.
Please tell me and show me how you have addressed this issue.
Thanks