My layout is cd83 exclusively but I recently got a small Atlas bridge with cd100 rails installed. Removing the rails and replacing with smaller rail seems like a tough job. Are there any rail-joiners designed for this issue or is there something I can make to accomodate the different rail heights? Thanks.
Mel:
That is a great solution! I'm going to use code 100 on the whole layout but I have some Micro Engineering bridge track which is code 83.
The reason I'm using code 100 is because I bought a ton of it a long time ago to go with my Peco code 100 turnouts, which I bought before Peco came out with their code 83 stuff.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
There are both transition joiners and transition track pieces, code 83 on one end, code100 on the other. Don't have my catalog handy, but I believe Walthers carries both. You can also check your LHS, though they may not have them, this time of year they do a lot of ordering, so may be able to get you some.
Good luck,
Richard
Are you using Atlas code 83? If so you can just use the Atlas code 83 to code 100 transition rail joiner. Atlas code 83 ties are taller than those on the code 100, and bring the top of the code 83 rail to the same height as the code 100.
http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?category=Track&scale=H&manu=walthers&item=&keywords=transition+track&words=restrict&instock=Q&split=30&Submit=Search
Just be glad you don't have to press "2" for English.
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maxman Are you using Atlas code 83? If so you can just use the Atlas code 83 to code 100 transition rail joiner. Atlas code 83 ties are taller than those on the code 100, and bring the top of the code 83 rail to the same height as the code 100.
I bought a pack of Atlas transition rail joiners back in the 1990's and never bought any again because after looking at them I noticed I can make all I want from standard railjoiners by cutting a slot in the top of the middle of any rail joiner and bend a step into it. I've used a dremel but a razor saw or file would probably work too.
Thats what I've done since. My current layout transitions from 100 in staging to 83 on the mainline and some code 70 in the yard. As long as you make the rail head match and the inside of the rail even, it's all good. You can solder if you want to make sure nothing shifts out of position. Easy peazy.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
I have done a few transitions and just joined them, bend things a bit and file the top a bit to match them up, soulder so it stays put, and then shim where needed. Now this is for 70 to code 83 but I am sure you could do the same on code 100.
I have done the "flattened joiner soldered to bottom of rail" trick. Worked just fine.
Then, I found (stumbled onto, accidentally.) out a neat little trick using ME joiners, ME rail, with Atlas joiners.
(Yes, you did read that right.... Both ME and Atlas joiners. Together.)
The smaller ME joiner goes all the way onto the smaller sized rail. (This is extremely tight, so extremely hard to get it on. Needle nose pliers are a must!)
Then, slide the smaller rail, with joiner shoved on all the way, into the Atlas joiner.
Moves the smaller rail code up just enought that they both line up at the same height. No more soldering flattened joiners. No more special transition joiners. No special bought transition track.
And, I have done this from Atlas 100, to ME 83, Atlas 83 to ME 70. One step up/down in size only. (This does not work going 100 to 70. Have not tried anything to 55, as my layout had zero code 55 trackage..)
Assuming that the other brands smaller joiners are sized correctly to fit into Atlas 100, no reason it can't be done with other brands. (I had gotten a deal on some ME flex at a show. Both 83 & 70, and, at the time, had a layout with mix of Atlas 100 & 83. Now, my new layout will be almost exclusively ME flex. Only Atlas rails will be staging. ME holds to a consistent radii curve better for me than the more flexable Atlas. Smoother laid track is better for layout operation. And, ME is not that much more than Atlas flex anymore. Price differrence is a lot closer than it had been a few years ago....)
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
Keep in mind Atlas bridges are relatively cheap, and come in both code 83 and code 100 versions. Getting a code 83 version of your bridge at a flea market or on sale somewhere may not cost much more than buying the transition track pieces or joiners.
Unfortunately Atlas does not offer their decorated bridges in cd83.
I have an Atlas bridge on my layout, and I found that if I gripped the end of the rail, they will slide right out. I just reversed the process with Atlas code 83 rail.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
The Walthers transition tracks, while not inexpensive (as if anything is), do work well. Moreover with careful cutting of the plastic webbing beneath the rails, they can even be made modestly curvable if you need that. I am interested to read (if I understand the above posts correctly) that the big "shoe boxes" that hold the rails in place on Atlas bridges do not cause flange problems if you swap out the Code 100 with Code 83.
Dave Nelson
Using Atlas code 100 (old, ugly black-tie) and code 83 (concrete ties) I simply cut excess depth into the trough for the joiners in the concrete ties, connected them with Atlas 'universal' joiners, then ballasted the joint with my 30# chunk of 75# (sometimes used for an anvil) 1:1 scale rail after I spread the latex caulk. That was in 2007. Never a bobble since.
The only thing you HAVE to do is keep the railheads level and the inside edges of the railheads aligned with each other.
Another alternative which I have used is to solder a 1.5 inch length of copper wire to the rails just below the railheads on the outside of the joint. Keep solder off the center quarter inch or so. Then bend and distort as necessary to get the railheads aligned.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with a number of transition joints between Code 100 and Code 83)