Also, due to this forum, I bought an airbrush. I was told by a coworker that after I get the hang of it, i never use a rattle can again. The airbrush was the cheapest part of the detail, I also had to get a regulator,fittings and air hose to run it from my shop compressor to my work bench and i'm building a spray booth, of what I read here, it will be more than worth it. I've been a member here for years and I was a die hard DC person, then these forums convinced me to go DCC and that was the BEST mrr move I ever made, i'm sure airbrushing will be #2.
I'd suggest that your initial practice should be simply to get familiar with the airbrush and its capabilities. For that, some cardboard boxes from the supermarket will work fine: break them down flat and use the inside surfaces for your practice work. For this step, plain tap water will do - no point in wasting paint, as all you want to do is see what happens from various actions. Try different distances to see the effect on the spray pattern, and how starting and or stopping on the work will cause problems. Play with the various adjustments which your brush may have, and see what each does separately and in combination with other adjustments. Alter the air pressure, too: different paints, differently-shaped models, and different desired effects can all be affected by this. Once you become comfortable with the brush, it's time to graduate to paint - your choice as to type and manufacturer, but by all means, heed the manufacturer's advice on thinning, the thinners to use, etc. For this, that cardboard is still the best practice surface.My Paasche VL came with a simple instruction booklet in which there were some suggested practice exercises. One of the most useful for me was making dots and lines: try making a dot with the airbrush at different distances from the surface, and once you've found the distance and settings from which you are able to make the smallest, most distinct dot, make a series of them. Next, connect the dots with sprayed lines - the thinner and sharper, the better. It is unlikely that you'll ever need to make dots or lines on your railroad equipment, but these exercises teach control of the tool - once you learn that, it's time to move on to painting some of that bargain table rolling stock. Have fun...it should be part of the process.
Wayne
My suggestions: 1) practice on toy quality trains, including the decals; 2) make sure you always use appropriate solvents; 3) I recommend acrylics because they involve less fumes. Enjoy! Simon
I have owned 2 Badger 200s. I don't know if the 200-20 is different, but I destroyed both of those spatterguns at different times when I'd finally decided that each had puked on whatever they were pointed at for the last time. The tips would load up and let fly. Maybe they've improved them by now. I know some have had fine results with them.
Then I used ModelMaster plastic airbrush with decent results. They seemd a bit finicky, having to change those tips, and such. At least they didn't spatter. It was used last to paint that 1/24 crane in my avitar. (I still have it)
Then I got a Crescendo. I've only used it enough so far to tell that it works like a dream! Oh-my-goodness, talk about control, and once you get the hang of dual action (not hard), Well, I think you'll be glad you got the good one to begin with.
I don't remember what I paid for mine, but I do remember I got a good deal on it too.
So far, I still mainly use solvent based paints. Don't know how it'll do with water base (acrylics) etc, But I imagine it should do fine.
Congrats! Keep us posted on how you like it. Dan
Jim:
Congratulations!
You are going to have a lot of fun with your new airbrush, and a few frustrations too. Comes with the territory.
If I can make a couple of suggestions:
- Spend some time studying the tutorials available on the web. If you can find one that explains how air brushes actually work you will be further ahead when it comes to problem solving. There have been some really good threads recently on the forums but darned if I can find them. Sorry. Maybe others can help.
- Get an electric paint mixer. Testors sells a nice battery powered unit that will mix anything no matter how much the paint has settled.
- Filter your paint. You can get away with not filtering new paints that have not settled out but if there is any sludge in the bottom of the jar, no matter how thoroughly you mix the paint, there will likely be enough lumps to clog the airbrush. Ask me how I know.
- Clean the airbrush as soon as you are finished painting, not in 10 or 15 minutes. Other stuff can wait, but if you let paint dry inside the airbrush you will have a bit of a chore cleaning it out. I use lacquer thinner as do many others.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
So I bought a Badger Crescendo Airbrush Kit 175-7. I was going to try and get a Badger 200-20, but ran into this deal on ebay for $39.99+$12.65 shipping that had been posted just a couple hours before I found it. Its supposed to be new in box ( we'll see ). Seemed allful cheap to me considering this kit goes for $100+ shipped. I'm hoping the seller isnt pulling my leg and just didnt know what it was worth.
Now I just have to learn how to mix my paints, ect.