I have been looking through pictures of Western Maryland steam and I really like the 2-6-6-2's they rebuilt to 0-6-6-0's. I feel like it is next to impossible to find a commercially available 0-6-6-0 in N scale. Has anyone kit bashed any articulated steam? Provided I can get one, would it be easier to buy the Bachmann mallet and remove leading and trailing wheels and unecessary parts? or should I try to mash together two 0-6-0's? All advice welcome!
Adam Thompson Model Railroading is fun!
davidmbedardUm...buy a 2-6-6-2 and remove the pilot and trailing truck? David B
Sounds like pretty much what the WM did! Don't see how it could get easier than that.
Mike
davidmbedard Um...buy a 2-6-6-2 and remove the pilot and trailing truck? David B
Um...buy a 2-6-6-2 and remove the pilot and trailing truck?
David B
Well yeah, that is the obvious ansswer. I should elaborate some. There are only a few I have found on ebay and after removing the leading and trailing wheels the front will need to be shortened and the cab will need to be moved forward. Comparing prototype photos with the model reveals that the prototype cab does not extend as far back as the cabs on the bachmann model. Looking for tips on making these modifications. The other thing is two new 0-6-0's are more readily available so that is always an option too. especially because I can go to the LHS and know what I am getting not just trusting an ebay listing. How would I go about it with that route?
With either route im going to have to make some major modification and last time I did that...well...this happened...
although I was 14 when I built this 11 years ago, I dont want it to look like I cut it apart with a butter knife and used paste and gum to create a new model. I dont have much experience in modifying things.
A highwater Goose...I like it
Personally, I think you're better off sticking with an articulated as the donor loco. Otherwise, you have to figure out the mechanism and frame arrangement. This may require some compromise, but the water is a lot friendlier for this sort of project than the deep water of doing it yourself, in N to boot.
I think you're on the right path, shorten the front porch, tighten up the cab location. But clearing the back of the mechanism is going to be the limitation of any rear chop in order to move the cab forward. You may have to take what you can get here, too, and call it good enough unless you really want the extra hassle for a modest gain.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
cheese3 There are only a few I have found on ebay and after removing the leading and trailing wheels the front will need to be shortened and the cab will need to be moved forward. Comparing prototype photos with the model reveals that the prototype cab does not extend as far back as the cabs on the bachmann model. Looking for tips on making these modifications. The other thing is two new 0-6-0's are more readily available so that is always an option too. especially because I can go to the LHS and know what I am getting not just trusting an ebay listing. How would I go about it with that route?
There are only a few I have found on ebay and after removing the leading and trailing wheels the front will need to be shortened and the cab will need to be moved forward. Comparing prototype photos with the model reveals that the prototype cab does not extend as far back as the cabs on the bachmann model. Looking for tips on making these modifications. The other thing is two new 0-6-0's are more readily available so that is always an option too. especially because I can go to the LHS and know what I am getting not just trusting an ebay listing. How would I go about it with that route?
I'm not sure I'm up to date on all available N scale models, but I think the only available 2-6-6-2 is based on the USRA design. That engine has a pronounced overhang at the cab end, which must be dealt with. This likely means repositioning the motor. That will be your biggest engineering challenge. Removal of the front truck and adjustment of the front pilot beam location will be minor in comparison.
If you were working in HO, I'd have recommended finding a PFM D&SL 2-6-6-0 on the used market, amputating the front truck, and adjusting details. The dimensions were that close.
It'll be an ambitious project. Good luck.
Tom
Thanks for the input everyone. Hope I have something neat to share with everyone in the near future...if all goes well...
Depending on the design of the 2-6-6-2 frame & motor mount, it might be advisable to think out of the (fire)box and mount the motor in the tender.