NP2626 O.K. then, I'm giving up on this!
O.K. then, I'm giving up on this!
Only the Phantom knows!
Alton Junction
Me...Too!
Take Care!
Frank
NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"
Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association: http://www.nprha.org/
NP2626Frank, which rail is the "TOP" rail? I see a rail on the left side and one on the right side of the photo, I don't see a top rail?
Well the pic' was taken from above......so if You were to look at the bridge eye level, would not the track that is pushed in...be the top rail? Left, Right, top, bottom, some still need's to be cut out. A little from the other rail, would not hurt either.
zstripe richhotrain The solution seems simple enough to me. Solder the rail connections on the curves and spike the rails to the ties on the bridgework. Rich Yeah....After You cut a gap in the top rail. Take Care! Frank
richhotrain The solution seems simple enough to me. Solder the rail connections on the curves and spike the rails to the ties on the bridgework. Rich
The solution seems simple enough to me.
Solder the rail connections on the curves and spike the rails to the ties on the bridgework.
Rich
Yeah....After You cut a gap in the top rail.
Frank, which rail is the "TOP" rail? I see a rail on the left side and one on the right side of the photo, I don't see a top rail?
Yeah....After You cut a gap in the top rail. It's bowed down, because of the pressure from both end's of the curve....that's why there are kinks in both of the curved approach tracks, somehow the two ends squeezed together and the bridge didn't move....the tracks on the bridge did. That's how it looks to me,from the pic's.
You know, I'm a pretty good mechanic and I understand mechanical things better than most; but, I gotta say Frank, I can't follow what your saying.
My thoughts as to what happened to the rails when the O.P. transported the layout, was that it was exposed to vibration, jostling; or, large temperature varation(s), that caused the rails to "pop" loose. They need to be glued back down and some allowance for expansion and contraction mde.
NP2626 I don't understand why having two joints across from each other would have caused the rails to come undone from the bridge ties?.
In His set up....If You look at the top curve where the kinks are in both rails and the bridge rails were partially straight on the bridge, to match up the top radius, the bridge would have had to be lowered to match up the otherside radius which also has kinks at the joints, resulting in the bottom rail, fitting ok...but the top rail, now being longer in that radius and causing it to bow inwards, which it did, causing it to come loose from the ties.
If the OP can get the ME bridge track at a good price and being able to work with it, (I hear they are stiff) I would do a test fit before glueing it to the bridge, like float in place with joiners connected. Most importantly, need a slight transition at both ends to ease the s-curve effect that is apparent now. Easier to draw then explain.
Just like trying to put a straight piece of flex track in a curve, when the curve is already laid.
I don't have an answer as to why this happened. I would have loosend the joiners on one end and with a track gauge, repositioned the rails and glued back in position with Thin CA glue. I would allow for rail expansion and contraction at at least one of the rail joints. I don't understand why having two joints across from each other would have caused the rails to come undone from the bridge ties?. I also can't fault Malcom Furlow's methods.
Thanks all. I have removed the bridge for repair. Took off the rails and ties. What do other scratch builders do. Should I use pre made micro engineering bridge flex track. I used Malcolm Furlows method that uses a piece of styrene with Atlas bidge componets then gluing ties to them then gluing the rails. Ideas please
You should never have Your rail joiners or gaps across from one another, especially in curves. Always stagger Your joints. Much easier to avoid kinks that way. Were it me with the problem....I would relay all the track in that area and follow My suggestion.
Have Fun!
Where you cut a gap, IF you must (because it makes sense to after much puzzling and looking for another solution), will affect power. Sometimes the gap cutting solves rail location or orientation problems, but some wheels start to derail there, especially if the gap has to be on a curve. Worse on a tight curve.
It seems to me that your bridge location, or its abutments, have shifted somewhat, or you have altered the alignment somehow...not that it matters at this point. Have you thought to align the bridge in such a way that one of the two rails straightens again to just about 'right?' From there, with it all anchored, you can fiddle with the other rail to your heart's content. Do whatever you must to that bad rail that is left while the rest of your problem is put to bed.
It might help to soften any ballast first and free up at least eight inches of rail beyond the abutments. Leave the bridge rails alone for now, try for a reasonable alighment that keeps your bridge about where it should be, and then get the other rail to play nice.
I see a kink at both ends.... Use either Pliobond, or spikes (solder if PC board ties are used) and smoothen out those kinks. If you must use CA, add in a few spikes as a backup plan... You may have either a humidity issue, or something else is out of alignment somewhere, creating the kinks and preasure on the bridge rail. Really check those approach curves though! From the photo's, it looks as if you have a kink in each curve (before and after the bridge, at each joiner) and, if it's correct (that it is kinked) you will have issues with it, even after resetting that bridge rail.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
Did humidity swing much from the old space to the new one? My guess is that even with solid construction something expanded and the rails just popped out of place. The long S-curve on the rails, combined with the lack of soldered or spiked tie connections at the bridge ends, might have had something to do with it. CA isn't great for shear-strength situations like this-- someone recommended using Pliobond for bridge rails to me and I've been happy with that on my scratch lift-out bridge so far. I applied it to the bottom of the rails, kept them in place with three-point gauges and then activated the Pliobond with my soldering iron applied to the top of the rail.
Hard to tell for sure from the photos but looks like there's a nasty kink in the curve just past the far crossbuck-- be sure to keep that well-aligned when you reset the rails. I defer to others with more experience on here but you might have to dig up the crossing to make sure the curve's in alignment...
P
I am building my version of the San Juan Central. Benchwork and trackwork is complete. Made it in 3 sections with removable legs as I planned on downsizing our home which we just did. Some scenery is place and the railroad worked perfect the 1st time. Thank you Blackstone. Sections on saw horses in basement trainroom. I was ready to start new backdrop and noticed my scrath-built bridge rails looked as if they expanded or something. I attached them orignally with CA. I moved the railroad. The benchwork is very strong traditional construction and the bridge was one of the 1st ones I ever built. Worked perfect since 2010 when started.
I see no gaps at rail joints and all are soldered. Should I cut a gap in the 1 rail that is sprung while still on the layout and re-glue it or should cut the bridge out of the scenery and fix or rebuild on the bench. Your thoughts