Login
or
Register
Subscriber & Member Login
Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!
Login
Register
Home
»
Model Railroader
»
Forums
»
Layouts and layout building
»
tyco plymouth switcher
tyco plymouth switcher
2251 views
6 replies
Order Ascending
Order Descending
roadrat
Member since
August 2004
From: Maine
392 posts
tyco plymouth switcher
Posted by
roadrat
on Monday, November 15, 2004 6:43 PM
Has anyone tried to hook up DCC to a tyco plymouth switcher, I am hoping to use this little critter to haul 2 flat cars back and forth to a saw mill.
Yes I know Tyco=toy/junk! but this little switcher is amazingly well built and with some detailing and weathering it should be alright.
No good deed goes unpunished.
Reply
Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Monday, November 15, 2004 11:01 PM
I dont know if that little toy motor could handle DCC.
Reply
Edit
Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Tuesday, November 16, 2004 2:07 PM
Im sure you could do it, I have installed decoders in old Bachmans, Model Power, & Life Likes.
Reply
Edit
Pennsy58
Member since
August 2003
From: Conemaugh Division
389 posts
Posted by
Pennsy58
on Tuesday, November 16, 2004 6:44 PM
Although not exactly the same, I installed DCC into my old AHM plymouth switcher. No problems. I used the TCS M-1 decoder and it fit without problems. The key would be to look closely as to how power is pulled from the truck and to the motor.
By the way, it runs great still.
Reply
cacole
Member since
July 2003
From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
13,757 posts
Posted by
cacole
on Tuesday, November 16, 2004 7:07 PM
The big question that must be answered to determine if you can install a decoder into the Tyco Plymouth is whether or not it has a metal frame, and if it does, is the motor screwed directly to that frame? The motor must be totally isolated from the frame, or your decoder will become a smoke generator as soon as you turn the power on. Check the resistance between the motor frame and locomotive frame. If you get a reading of zero, modifications may be necessary to isolate the motor. Other than this, there should be no problem as long as there is room for a decoder.
Reply
roadrat
Member since
August 2004
From: Maine
392 posts
Posted by
roadrat
on Friday, November 19, 2004 2:57 PM
I've checked out the moter and it is part of the frame so I guess its no good for DCC
but thats alright I've checked my track plan and I'm going to mod it so that the logging line is seperate and run it as DC.
thanks everyone for the help.
bill
No good deed goes unpunished.
Reply
cacole
Member since
July 2003
From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
13,757 posts
Posted by
cacole
on Saturday, November 20, 2004 8:21 AM
Even if the motor is screwed directly to the frame, there may still be some hope. Assuming that the motor is held in place with one or two metal screws, you could remove it, place electrical tape between the motor and frame, and then use nylon screws instead of the metal ones to re-fasten the motor. Most motors only have one screw holding them down. If the bottom of the motor is perfectly flat you might even be able to use a piece of double-sided white foam tape to stick the motor in place. Clean the frame and motor with rubbing alcohol so the tape will adhere better.
Reply
Subscriber & Member Login
Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!
Login
Register
Users Online
There are no community member online
Search the Community
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter
See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter
and get model railroad news in your inbox!
Sign up