Alternatives to Woodland Scenics Foam Tack Glue

[rrinker]

Picked up a bunch of supplies at the train show today, so I can finally start laying soe track. Decided to try using the Woodland Sceneics foam bed instead of cork. Of course they recommend their own prudcts, the foam tack glue, to fasten this stuff down, and fasten the track down. But the price is rather high for what appears to be basic white glue. My question is, what are some good alternatives? Elmer's white glue? Will the latex caulk method work?
Base is pink extruded foam insulation board.

--Randy

[orsonroy]

Basically any foam-safe glue will work, but I really like the silicone caulk method. One tube costs next to nothing, and lasts a long time (I laid over 100 feet of track with one tube!). You only need a thin layer, the caulk tends to self-level, and any residual is virtually invisible. It's also pretty easy to peel off if you need to rework a section of track.

I'd recommend whit glue as choice #2.

[bogp40]

QUOTE: Originally posted by orsonroy

Basically any foam-safe glue will work, but I really like the silicone caulk method. One tube costs next to nothing, and lasts a long time (I laid over 100 feet of track with one tube!). You only need a thin layer, the caulk tends to self-level, and any residual is virtually invisible. It's also pretty easy to peel off if you need to rework a section of track.

I'd recommend whit glue as choice #2.

Have you had any trouble glueing down ballast to silicone? White glue will not bond to silicone. Silicone does have good advantages for this use, but was wondering if you encountered any problems.
Bob K.

[rrinker]

All instructions for the caulk method say to use LATEX caulk. Not only is it cheaper (you can use the cheapest brand you can find at the store), there are no potentia; issues with silicon interfering with ballasting or the outgassing reacting with any plastic or foam. I have a couple of tubes I bought when I was planning to use cork, I'll give it a try. Actually, I am going to head out tot he Home Depot and pick up an extra sheet of foam insulation to use as a base for experimentation. I also want to try the top-mount method for mounting Tortoise switch machines, and if I mess up until I get the hang of making the hole just right, I don't want it to be on the actual layout. Any leftover pieces I can cut up to form a base for scenery.

--Randy

[Anonymous]

I've used quite a bit of woodland scenics, both the risers and the inclines. I've succesfully used Elmers glue, Low temp Hot Glue, and a tube of clear latex caulk. None of it ate the foam. For cheap tacky glue I've read alot of posts about Aileens tacky glue, available at most craf places cheap. The hot glue was the quickest to set obviously. What I ended up doing was spot hot glueing then the rest with caulk. I did glue the multilevel risers together with white glue, then pinned it until dry. I will say, I haven't tried ballasting yet. I like the idea of the caulk. I'm using Kato Unitrack. I bought some used and lots of new. The used stuff had caulk residue on it. Comes off easy, and they say it will help cut down on noise. Dave

[orsonroy]

I heard about the utgassing issues too, so I let my track "ferment" for awhile before I started laying any ballast. The area I've ballasted was down and test run for at least four months before I started ballasting, and it didn't eat the foam at all. As for the ballast itself, I had no problems. Of course, the silicone caulk is only between the ties, not on the sides of the roadbed, so there won't be any adhesion issues to speak of. I'll poke the ballast when I get home to see if any of it is loose between the ties.

[ondrek]

I plan on testing this method out:
1. silicone caulk on the foam base
2. WS foam road bed
3. Let it set and dry
4. use the same silicone caulk to adhere the track to the roadbed.
5. while the caulk is setting up, do the ballast then and let the ballast stick to the caulk, this would mean putting caulk all over the roadbed not just where the track will stick to it.

let that sit and test it out.

I plan to test this out on a 2' section sometime in the coming weekend.

anyone see any downfall to that method?
the track is already painted and such so i dont have to worry about weathering it after its laid.

Kevin