Interesting.
LION needs to build a canal wall around the Gowanus Canal. Planks on one side and concrete on the other should do it. Should be easy enough once I get a round tuit.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
There's another part to it see their ship berth, though the docks I've seen are a line of spaced wooden posts (power pole size or larger) with horizontal planks attached to them above the high tide line and capped with concrete blocks resembling the upper edge of those quay walls.
Though I've a feeling that's just a Australian regional dock construction method and was in use in a period, I'm thinking from 1920-80's. I could be wrong as docks, piers and the waterfront are something I've not investigated much.
Frank,
You can always count on me to find things for you to blow your RR budget on!
I just happened to see it listed and remembered this old thread... glad to be of help,
Ed
Ed,
Thanks for the link.......that's exactly what I'm looking for, for one of my project's.
Take Care!
Frank
NittanyLion I thought Heljan made something that looked like that sort of material
I thought Heljan made something that looked like that sort of material
Just arrived at MB Klein:
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Faller-HO-Wharf-Wall-p/flr-131012.htm
You probably don't need to model the wall behind the boat where it won't be seen...
Hope this helps, Ed
Hi, Sam
It looks like you and I are in the same boat with the Hulett ore dock. I have had a Hulett fascination for years growing up in the Cleveland area we had at least 10 of the beasts, four at the C&P dock on Whiskey Island and four at the Erie dock on the Cuyahoga and two at J&L Steel farther up the Cuyahoga. I was at the ASME Landmark dedication in August of 1998. I taped the event. I hope I can get that on Youtube soon!
I did make a video of a Conrail ride around the baloon track...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9drS3Wqyp8
I made a master and latex mold for these seawalls...
This one is wood pilings and I plan to use them on some of the dock walls but not behind the boat dock.
These are plaster moldings with just a coat of primer. A darker primer and a little weathering will make these look better. Around the Cleveland docks they used lots of interlocking Z shapes driven into the shoreline. They rusted to a dark brown.
Here's a close up view. These samples I grabbed weren't the best castings but the only ones I had with a little paint on them. I have some with fewer bubbles.
You say you need over four feet but are you going to see it behind the boat? I'm debating weather to simply use some kind of filler behind the hull where it won't be too visible.
Here's an overall view of two of the planned four Huletts. I need to find better Payloaders but these were cheap and make OK stand-ins.
Your corrugated cardboard idea sounds pretty good. Seems to me I have seen that stuff made out of a plastic material, maybe for advertizing displays? That might hold paint better.
Have fun with your project, Ed
Lot of methods to use for "concrete panels". They can be done individually or done on a substrate of foam, plywood or masonite. Durabond 90 or Durham's water putty would work better than most spackles. Adhere better and will allow carving/ distressing. I like working w/ hydrocal, colored w/ powdered dyes. Pour sized panels in form and install. I find that plaster will cut, chip and distress rather well for the look of aged concrete.
These are abutments, but the same technique can be used for retaining walls etc
After washes, dry brushing and distressing
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
bogp40 Your era, the age or the dock/ wall and your preferance as to wood/ piling, concrete or steel will depend on a product to use. The 'stripped" corragated cardboard if pulled clean is a great idea for the closer spaced ribbing. Can you get a clean strip though w/o sections of the side and glue still attached.
Your era, the age or the dock/ wall and your preferance as to wood/ piling, concrete or steel will depend on a product to use. The 'stripped" corragated cardboard if pulled clean is a great idea for the closer spaced ribbing. Can you get a clean strip though w/o sections of the side and glue still attached.
Just googled up a bunch of Hulett photos. One location, with two Huletts, had/has a plain, rather battered concrete seawall. Others had the type of seawall Mister Beasley built, some with a horizontal rubbing strake parallel to and above the water line.
One thing to consider. While the Great Lakes have waves, they don't have measurable tides - and the level doesn't vary by season. This vastly simplifies shoreside mooring arrangements.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I built this with styrene. It's small, but the same idea.
I cut a sheet to shape, and then I took Evergreen "channel" pieces, cut them to length and glued them in place. You could use solid strips of styrene as well. Just make sure to measure carefully or use a square to make sure they all line up.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Group,
I am starting to do the portion of my layout with 2 Hulett's and an ore boat but I was wondering what to use for the sea wall. I have looked at Walthers and do not see anything like the pictures on the Hulett package and or the boat kit. Any ideas how to do this economically? I was thinking corrogated cardboard with one of the smooth sides missing. The boat is almost 4 foot long so I need a bunch! Thanks for your ideas!
Sam