bogp40 That's a great tip, when working w/ plaster, always have some extra clean molds handy to pour any excess. No sense wasting it, even if you end up w/ thin, half filled ones, they can be broken up for tallus.
That's a great tip, when working w/ plaster, always have some extra clean molds handy to pour any excess. No sense wasting it, even if you end up w/ thin, half filled ones, they can be broken up for tallus.
Funny you brought up talus, Bog. I will posting some pics along those exact lines. I usually mix plaster in red plastic cups (Solo, lol) and I leave what I don't use in the, until it sets up hard. I'll shoot you a pm when I post them.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
Medina1128 bogp40 Yup, must be getting lazy in my old age. Actually this area would have been a nightmare to do w/ traditional methods as it is almost 12 ft long and 14" tall. Mine's pretty puny by comparison. It's "only" 5' long and 10" high... plus another foot long (I just added some more castings). Rather than waste the extra plaster I had made up, I poured the rest into a couple of rock molds. They are in the process of being colored.
bogp40 Yup, must be getting lazy in my old age. Actually this area would have been a nightmare to do w/ traditional methods as it is almost 12 ft long and 14" tall.
Yup, must be getting lazy in my old age. Actually this area would have been a nightmare to do w/ traditional methods as it is almost 12 ft long and 14" tall.
Mine's pretty puny by comparison. It's "only" 5' long and 10" high... plus another foot long (I just added some more castings). Rather than waste the extra plaster I had made up, I poured the rest into a couple of rock molds. They are in the process of being colored.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Medina1128 bogp40 A side note suggestion to other modelers, dealing w/ a cut section like this. If laying up plaster castings and/or plaster carving may be too intimidating or labor intense, check into Cripplebush "Rubber" rock castings http://www.cripplebush.net/ They offer a decent selection of shale, granite and basalt. The castings are cut and fit easily and hot glued to any solid base. Additional lumps, bumps for more pronounced outcropping is easily done by shimming out w/ fit pieces of foam. Many have most likely seen this pic but show the Cripplebush to get idea of the end results. Aw, man, that's taking the easy way out..
bogp40 A side note suggestion to other modelers, dealing w/ a cut section like this. If laying up plaster castings and/or plaster carving may be too intimidating or labor intense, check into Cripplebush "Rubber" rock castings http://www.cripplebush.net/ They offer a decent selection of shale, granite and basalt. The castings are cut and fit easily and hot glued to any solid base. Additional lumps, bumps for more pronounced outcropping is easily done by shimming out w/ fit pieces of foam. Many have most likely seen this pic but show the Cripplebush to get idea of the end results.
A side note suggestion to other modelers, dealing w/ a cut section like this. If laying up plaster castings and/or plaster carving may be too intimidating or labor intense, check into Cripplebush "Rubber" rock castings http://www.cripplebush.net/ They offer a decent selection of shale, granite and basalt. The castings are cut and fit easily and hot glued to any solid base. Additional lumps, bumps for more pronounced outcropping is easily done by shimming out w/ fit pieces of foam. Many have most likely seen this pic but show the Cripplebush to get idea of the end results.
Aw, man, that's taking the easy way out..
Bright direct work lighting shows the overall coloring, this is not seen under nornal conditions The entire area of the cut (12ft) was placed in 2 couple evenings. Those pronounced projections were back filled w/ expandable foam to stop those poking fingers from mashing and distorting the flexing rubber.
Bright direct work lighting shows the overall coloring, this is not seen under nornal conditions
The entire area of the cut (12ft) was placed in 2 couple evenings. Those pronounced projections were back filled w/ expandable foam to stop those poking fingers from mashing and distorting the flexing rubber.
The entire area of the cut (12ft) was placed in 2 couple evenings.
Those pronounced projections were back filled w/ expandable foam to stop those poking fingers from mashing and distorting the flexing rubber.
Medina1128 wickman Nicely done. Any problem on the masonite when it got wet from the plaster? None, whatsoever.
wickman Nicely done. Any problem on the masonite when it got wet from the plaster?
Nicely done. Any problem on the masonite when it got wet from the plaster?
None, whatsoever.
Thanks Marlon, good to know.
Lynn
Present Layout progress
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/p/290127/3372174.aspx#3372174
Medina1128 I'll be taking bogP40's advice and doing some recoloring of the surrounding rocks. I'll also be adding some detritus at the base of the cliff. I always save leftover plaster. I usually mix it in a red Solo cup, and let what I don't use just set up. Later, I slice the cup open with a razor knife, remove the hardened plaster and smash it into small pieces with a 10 lb. mallet. I mix some stain into a small bowl, drop in the pieces for a minute or so, then pour out the stain through a strainer and set the pieces on paper towels until dry. I then glue them in place with a slightly thicker mix of white glue and water. Pics to follow later.
I'll be taking bogP40's advice and doing some recoloring of the surrounding rocks. I'll also be adding some detritus at the base of the cliff. I always save leftover plaster. I usually mix it in a red Solo cup, and let what I don't use just set up. Later, I slice the cup open with a razor knife, remove the hardened plaster and smash it into small pieces with a 10 lb. mallet. I mix some stain into a small bowl, drop in the pieces for a minute or so, then pour out the stain through a strainer and set the pieces on paper towels until dry. I then glue them in place with a slightly thicker mix of white glue and water. Pics to follow later.
Good idea, I would start out and go light w/ the "new" coloring of the red oxides of the lower strata. The cut could/ would be more pronounced as the leaching of the iron would be more evident.The outer low lying rock outcropping would see far more weathering overtime. If going lighter on the forground makes the "new" cut too pronounced, you can always go back and "knock' down the rust/ oxides a bit, or darken to a reddish brown. You can also show some veins or sections of strata that have some green or any other color that suits you. Lots of minerals mimic all shades of the rock and leachate at fractures. Looking forward to see the results.
Great job on the re-do!
NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"
Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association: http://www.nprha.org/
bogp40 Very nice reconstruction. Most of us MR's will tend to run into trouble spots like this. Many times we have to have such radical elevation changes due to track plan within the constaints of compressed space. It can be difficult to do some believable scenery under these conditions. You made it far more realistic, quite the difference. With the "new and improved" look and rock coloring, you may want to "doctor" up some of the existing forground rock w/ your similar washes also.
Very nice reconstruction. Most of us MR's will tend to run into trouble spots like this. Many times we have to have such radical elevation changes due to track plan within the constaints of compressed space. It can be difficult to do some believable scenery under these conditions. You made it far more realistic, quite the difference.
With the "new and improved" look and rock coloring, you may want to "doctor" up some of the existing forground rock w/ your similar washes also.
Great, now you've given me another project.. LOL!. It's actually easy to do, since I use the Apple Barrel acrylic paints, available in the crafts section at Walmart. A small plastic cup with some wet water in it. Squeeze out a little of the color, stir with a brush. I prewet the area that I'm going to color with a spray bottle of wet water, just enough to wet it, not soak it. This helps the colors flow and not create a hard color line.
My favorite colors are raw and burnt sienna and raw umber. This will depend on the area that you're modeling. I always save my leftover plaster, so I have pieces that I can color test before applying to the layout.
Marlon:
Great improvement! Nice colouring.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
MisterBeasley I agree. It's a great improvement. The coloring is particularly nice. One question: How did you work on that? It looks like most of the rock work is a good distance from any access.
I agree. It's a great improvement. The coloring is particularly nice.
One question: How did you work on that? It looks like most of the rock work is a good distance from any access.
There is a removable section behind the layout at that end. I remove it, and have plenty of room to work from behind it.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Thank you, both, for your comments. It's not the first time I've torn out whole sections of layout to make improvements... and probably won't be the last.. lol
Nicely done!!
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Nice work Marlon. Thanks for sharing your techniques.
Joe
On my layout, there was a cliff, that, well, left a lot to be desired in appearance. So, I finally bit the bullet, tore it out and replaced it. The moral of the story, don't be afraid to tear out a whole section to improve it.
This is the cliff that was to be torn out and replaced.
After tearing out the old cliff.
I bent and screwed a strip of masonite to be used to support new cliff. I tried a piece of paneling, but it just snapped when bent.
Cliff blended with existing scenery with plaster cloth. The whole strip of masonite would be covered, followed by a thin layer of plaster. This would give the area some tooth for the plaster castings that would follow.
First rock castings in place, glued with Liquid Nails for Projects. The pushpins supported them while the LN set up (a couple of hours).
Smaller castings would fill in the open spots. I used plaster cloth to fill in gaps between castings. A thin layer of plaster would be added to cover the woven texture of the plaster cloth. To add working time with the plaster, add about a tsp of vinegar to the plaster mix.
Base color sprayed on. Thin wash of India ink and rubbing alcohol. Don't worry about the intensity of the color, it will be muted when final coloring is applied. NOW is a good time to remove the masking tape, and run the longest piece of equipment with the most overhang through the area to check clearance. Once that's done, replace masking tape.
Coloring added using thin washes of acrylic earthtones (raw sienna, raw and burnt umber).
Ground foam applied to tops of rocks.
View of cliff from opposite end. Ground foam has been applied to base of cliff.
A final spray of the India ink wash settles into the cracks and crevices, adds depth. Drybrushing with antique white acrylic toned the colors down, while giving the illusion of the sun highlighting the rocks.
A lone tree has taken up residence atop one of the rock outcroppings.