I am building a free mo module 2' x 7' split in the middle at 3.5'. I am looking to do a butt joint but wasn't sure of the best way to connect the interior module joint benchwork wise. I have seen wood pegs and metal pins used for alignment, are their alternative, more solid ways to temporarily join modules?
The Brits quite often use patternmakers dowels to align modules - take a look here!
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Since all of my modules are 2x4', I made templates from 1x4" strips of oak. I drill 3/8" holes 2" in from the ends. Use a drill press to ensure that holes are perpendicular to the wood. When I'm ready to build the next module, I clamp 1x4s to the template, making sure the sides and ends are flush and drill the holes for dowels. I glue dowels into the holes in one of the 1x4s after tapering the other end. I secure the modules with a couple of deck screws. This will pull the ends securely together. Using this method of alignment, you can build the modules without the need for filler tracks.
I drill additional holes as needed for wiring. Using male/female wiring connectors, I can remove any module when needed.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
In Free-moN the standardized endplates must be flush butt joints, but the section joint can be secured however you want.(As those two "ends" will only ever connect with each other and no other module)
Many of us in Silicon Valley Free-moN use smooth steel 1/4" pins for alignment.
You don't even need to make a jig: just clamp the section together, drill the holes freehand, put the pins in, then lay the track across the gap.
That way, every time you put the sections together, the track lines up.
If you're clever, you'll use the same alignment holes for the endplates:
Hope this helps.
M.C. Fujiwara
My YouTube Channel (How-to's, Layout progress videos)
Silicon Valley Free-moN