I used ModelPower c100 track at a buck a stick back in the day, I thick it's $1.80 a stick now from Trainworld, they've also got c83 now. I liked it because it had better detail and smaller track spike heads. Upper photo is Atlas lower, photo is ModelPower.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
It is considerably more expensive now, but still on the lower end of flex track prices. I think it looks almost as good as the others, and it flexes really easily. Thanks!
riogrande5761 I have to battle with the stiff flextrack to get it to conform to curves
There is definately a learning curve the first time you use track that stays where you put it. I had a few GRRRRR! moments myself until I figured it out. The secret for me was working the curve from the end of the piece backwards instead of bending as you go. I should have probably looked for a video on how to do it first. I was ready to go right back to springy track when I first took a crack at the stiff stuff, but I stuck it out and now prefer the stiff stuff. It's splitting hairs for me though.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Some of us do get stuck in our ways. I learned how to lay track the old way back in the 70's and 80's by laying it on a center-line. Because I lay track to conform to the center-line which I drew based on a curve drew with a trammel or from scale drawings, it's easier to use the springy flex track - it conforms quite nicely. I have to battle with the stiff flextrack to get it to conform to curves - what stiff track I have now will mostly be used in straight sections in a yard.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
mlehman richhotrain My layout is in my basement, but the washing machine and dryer are upstairs in the laundry room. Now what? Super Angry Time to install an elevator -- or a second laundry room in the basement?
richhotrain My layout is in my basement, but the washing machine and dryer are upstairs in the laundry room. Now what? Super Angry
Time to install an elevator -- or a second laundry room in the basement?
Rich
Alton Junction
richhotrainMy layout is in my basement, but the washing machine and dryer are upstairs in the laundry room. Now what? Super Angry
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
mlehman Another tip on handling ME track. If you're in the basement working on the layout -- as many are -- then the top of a dryer or washing machine can help you out.
Another tip on handling ME track. If you're in the basement working on the layout -- as many are -- then the top of a dryer or washing machine can help you out.
Another tip on handling ME track. If you're in the basement working on the layout -- as many are -- then the top of a dryer or washing machine can help you out. Laying the ME flex on any hard, slick surface, then pushing sideways only, carefully, it's much easier to make it behave.
RioGrande mentioned reasons why some prefer Atlas and the difficulty of handling ME often comes up on those lists. But I actually prefer this feature. I usually build track away from its intended location, especially so now that the layout's track is effectively finished and I only do mods and upgrades. Having it stay in place while carried out and back in is helpful. It also seems to me to help with accuracy of attaching wiring drops and cutting to the exact length required.
This is as much a matter of personal style in laying track than anything. Try both and you'll figure out if you prefer one over the other.. It won't make much difference on a small layout, but I'd hate to be committed to 100 pc of something that would drive me nuts before I got it all laid.
gmpullmanFor those tiny joiners I modified a #11 blade and slip the joiner on to the blade then it is much easier to push the joiner on to the end of the rail. Careful filing is a must!
I drilled a hole in the end of a dowel and glued a piece of rail about 2" long into it and sharpened the point. This is what I use to spread those n-scale joiners.
My track is code 83 Walthers/Shinohara turnouts and Atlas flex.
No plastic joiners for me. I cut the rail with the Dremel and glue a piece of styrene into the gap. Hit it with a nylon "wire" wheel and it takes on the contour of the rail. It vanishes when painted.
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
peahrens Another note, what kind of rail joiners to use. With code 83 I used Atlas N80 joiners. They are significantly smaller, less clunky, than the larger ones. Glad I did it, though I used the big clunky insulating ones at electrical gap joints.
Another note, what kind of rail joiners to use. With code 83 I used Atlas N80 joiners. They are significantly smaller, less clunky, than the larger ones. Glad I did it, though I used the big clunky insulating ones at electrical gap joints.
Back in the earlier days of Atlas code 83 track, Atlas used to sell code 83 rail joiners before going to their "universal" code 100/83 joiners (which are big and clunky looking). I bought up every package of Atlas code 83 joiners I could find because they were much finer and looked better - good to know there are alternatives out there since the old supply dried up - I do a good supply of the Atlas code 83 joiners to last me a while right now.
I too use the plastic insulated joiners too - I imagine painting them will help hide them.
Another note, what kind of rail joiners to use. With code 83 I used Atlas N80 joiners. They are significantly smaller, less clunky, than the larger ones. They fit nice and tight (a bit too tight) so you can take a piece of flextrack and file the ends very slightly tapered and wiggle each joiner on it a bit to loosen it slightly before adding to your real track. Glad I did it, though I used the big clunky insulating ones at electrical gap joints.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
I got used to removing ties for joiner clearance automatically. The goofy D-shaped ties Atlas mods in to some of its products get cut off no matter what.
I use wood ties under the joiners, which don't melt from soldering iron heat, and are made of slightly thinner material to allow for joiner clearance. Once everything is painted and ballasted they mostly disappear. The track above is Atlas 83.
Rob Spangler
I agree that the Atlas tie ends have to be cut off.
The Shinohara tie strip is molded in an alternate pattern so you can "bunch-up" the ties without cutting any off (of course on curves you are going to have to cut the outside rail.) I like to solder the joiner without any ties under it then when everything is filed and cleaned up I take some scrap ties left over from short sections, use an Exacto #11 and scrape away the spike heads then slip 2 or 3 ties under the joint and apply just enough heat to soften the tie and the joiner nestles in nice and smooth.
Happy Modeling, Ed
That's why I decided to go Peco, after ordering a few pieces to test. It flexes fairly springy like Atlas, so it's easy to form smooth curves and transitions with, but the spike detail is finer than on the Atlas. And the little things - instead of those wierd D shaped end ties that Atlas uses to there is no plastic under the rails where the joiners go, Peco just shaves out the plastic, so it looks like there is a normal tie at the end of the turnout, or the end of the flex track piece, but in reality there is space shaved out for the joiner to fit in without bumping up the rails. Less cutting the end ties off and fitting them back in later and no unprototypical D shaped ties.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Regarding "holding shape". I have historically found the "springy" track (Atlas) easy to shape and work with, much easier than the stiff track that holds its shape. As for holding shape, my track holds shape by fastening it down with Atlas track nails or spikes - they work quite well for that.
I used Atlas code 100 when I was in a modular model RR club. Would have used Atlas code 83 on my home layout but it was not available when I started laying track three years ago so I used Peco code 83. If Atlas is available when I need to purchase more I would probably use it over Peco because it is less expensive.
If you decide ME track, one trick (other than ribbon rail gauges... Those work so well it's almost too easy....) is to take a paint stir stick, (cheap!), and run it along the edge of the ties, pushing the edge away from you as you run the stick along it, to assist in creating a more gentle, kink free curve.
Me, I have both Atlas 83, and ME 83. Yard is hand laid ME 70, except the approach track turnout, which is a curved Shinohara 83 (Walthers). I like the ME 83 on curves, as it holds it's shape better.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
I've been using Atlas flex track. It works well and looks good. The only drawback was the Great Atlas Track Shortage, but I had stocked up and managed to weather the storm.
Note that the cross section of each brand of rail is different. In particular, when you try to join Peco and Atlas, you'll find that there is no such thing as a rail joiner that will fit easily but snugly on both. I've been using the Atlas joiners which they claim will work on both Code 100 and Code 83, but I'm only using Code 83 track. These joiners, unfortunately, are still unavailable at my usually well-stocked LHS. Right now, I'm using Walthers joiners, after trying Peco and finding them too tight for easy use. Both Atlas and Walthers joiners work well on both brands of track.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
The good thing is you don't have to stick with only one type/brand of flex track. You can connect any to another and the most you might have to do is shim one side to get an even transition.
I've always like the ease of flexing good ol Atlas flex, but I have some Walthers code 70 which is stiff and takes a good deal of bending to get it set to the curve or straight as desired. I'll be using the code 70 in my yard and since I already had a bunch of Atlas code 100 and 83, I won't need to buy much, if any, for my current layout.
Yes, if you are not rough with flex track, it can be re-used, which saves money - and these days track has gone up significantly in price.
HO-Velo...went with the M.E. ...Having started track laying in 2012 can't comment on longevity
I have some ME code 70 and 55 flex that has been recycled through three layouts over the last 25 years. It still holds up.
Before starting my layout during the beginning of the "Great Atlas track shortage" I purchased a stick of code 83 flex from the same manufacturers as you. I preferred the look of the Micro Engineering after test ballasting and painting several inches of each.
The fact that the M.E. rail profile and tie height matched the Fastrack turnouts I chose clinched it, went with the M.E. There was some research and experimentation involved in my learning to finesse the M.E., but Ribbonrail gauges help and I do like how the M.E. holds it's shape after forming.
Having started track laying in 2012 can't comment on longevity, and only running 4 axle diesel models some with stoutness, but so far so good.
Regards, Peter
My new N Scale build is all Peco C55 flex and Electrofrog turnouts. Real quality product with hugh choice of turnout types which I needed for the new design. Doug
I used one scissors cross over that was a Shinohara Code 100 product and I have a Micro Engineering bridge track on a scratch trestle I built, the rest of my track and turnouts are all Atlas, with some Snap Switches and the majority Custom Line Turnouts. I would not use Snap Switches again as there is no way to power their plastic frogs.
In actuality, if I were to start over again, I would model the Rio Grande Southern in Sn3 scale and would hand lay all my track and use “Fast Track” jigs to build my turnouts with.
We all build to “What looks good enough” in our own eyes.
NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"
Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association: http://www.nprha.org/
NP2626At this time I did not find Shinohara Code 83 flex track with wood ties available at Model Train Stuff; or, I would have included it in the price list.
I just bought a box last week...
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Walthers-HO-815-39-Code-83-Flex-Track-10pac-p/948-815.htm
$9 bucks a stick. Granted, not cheap. I also like the M-E stuff but I wanted to try to stay with one manufacturer. I did use Atlas 100 in a staging yard and in another storage yard I used Atlas code 83 along with Atlas #6 switches.
Instead of clipping off any ties on the ends of the flex track I carefully squeeze them closer together rather than lose a tie or two.
Shinohara has to be handled a little more carefully as you can unzip the rail if you mishandle it but I have only encountered rare instances of that.
Another item I liked was the bridge track which, I guess, you can now get separate ends and make it as long as you want. Back when I needed some it was only one length but easy to cut and join. Looks great with the guard rail and bridge timber guard. Like Dante I had used the Shinohara joiners but I also used Atlas N scale and M-E and in places out of sight the Atlas universal 83/100 joiners which are large.
For those tiny joiners I modified a #11 blade and slip the joiner on to the blade then it is much easier to push the joiner on to the end of the rail. Careful filing is a must!
Happy Tracklaying... Ed
I am with Ed, having used Walthers/Shinohara Code 83. I chose it primarily because I use many of their wide selection of curved turnouts. Other factors are good looks, thin ties, small spikes, the ability to spike the track (you can glue it if you prefer-I don't), and small, tight rail joiners that look good and mitigate against loss of electrical conductivity. It is easy to flex but not too floppy. Admittedly, the product is more expensive but worth it, I believe.
Dante
One thing to consider, these three manufacturers and probably others will all work with each other. Here is the prices I found at M.B. Klein's (Model Trains Stuff) all are Code 83: Atlas, Price for qty. of 5 $4.35 each, Micro Engineering, Price for qty. of 6: $4.83 each, Pico Price for qty. of 25 $5.39 each.
Shinohara track has been available from Walthers, I believe, since before I started my layout in 1988. At this time I did not find Shinohara Code 83 flex track with wood ties available at Model Train Stuff; or, I would have included it in the price list.
I'm into making things look real, also. I painted all my Code 100 Atlas track roof brown and repainted random ties various shades of gray. The painting is all important to making track look real, to me, far more than the size of the simulated spikes. Yes, the spikes are too big. However the money I saved by buying Atlas track allowed me to spend money on better locos and rolling stock, the real players in the realism game we play. Where I to start over, I would probably go with either Atlas or Micro Engineering.
My layout has examples of MicroEngineering, Shinohara (Walthers), and Atlas.
Above is Micro Engineering. It's the most difficult to curve (and straight for that matter) but does deliver a fine appearance. The ties have a somewhat irregular look due to the small variations in spacing and are offset from the center line so the ends don't all line up perfectly. It's as realistic as you can expect from flex track.
THis yard uses a lot of Shinohara code 70, which is similar in appearance to their code 83. Compared to the Micro Engineering on the back two tracks, note how the tie spacing is wider, and the ties are also somewhat wider themselves. Their code 83 is sold under the Walthers brand. It's about the same to use as ME, the spikes are a bit bigger, and it costs more.
This yard is Atlas 83. The spikes are larger than the above brands, and the ties are very rigid and regular in placement. Careful weathering can mitigate both issues to some extent. It's also the easiest to use.
Atlas ties are thicker than ME or Shinohara (which essentially match one another), something to consider if you plan on mixing brands of track and turnouts. I don't have any Peco, but note that its ties are thicker still. Also note that each brand has a different rail cross section, requiring attention to achieve smooth joints, and brands of rail joiners aren't necessarily readily interchangeable. While careful installation can allow the different brands to be used together, more skill may be required to really do it right - something else to consider when choosing.
I began construction of my present layout in 1995. At that time Atlas code 100 was the prevalent brand, at least around here. My previous layouts were all Atlas.
Right around then Walthers began importing the code 83 line from Shinohara and I liked the appearance (smaller spike heads, spike holes located at the rail base, more ties per meter) and at that time they had a large selection of turnouts including #8s which I wanted for mainline crossovers. They since have included #10 turnouts. The line also included several curved turnouts and double-slip switches. The first few years these turnouts were power-routing type. They have since re-tooled and made them all-live which I have switched over to for the most part.
Well, the layout is celebrating 20 years this month and I'm still using the code 83 Shinohara (Walthers) with no regrets. The only occasional QC problem I've encountered was a little plastic around the frog that needs to be filed and an occasional jumper that was not securely tacked to the underside of the rail, requiring an extra feeder wire here and there.
That's my experience, anyway. YMMV
Ed
No right answer here. If you're going to paint & ballast your track, that may reduce the differences you actually notice, unless you stop to scrutinize, or see more apparently in a photo. Maybe try paint & ballast some of your trial pieces (on roadbed and then decide.
UPDATE: I did decide on code 83 Atlas flex, but Walthers-Shinohara turnouts as I liked the broad selection of the latter. There is a 0.017" tie thickness difference that some ignore and some address by shimming under the turnouts with cardboard or sheet styrene. On crossings, I hate the Atlas 90-degree ones I installed in series, would recommend another brand.