I pressed brass "pem nuts" into the four holes in each corner. Use the flush mount insert and matching machine screw. These are similar to helicoils used to repair damaged threads. Makes a neat installation and removal is simple if necessary, no stripped out plastic holes in the casework of the controller.
Tom M. Also, another person mentioned having to re-program all the tracks if the bridge is removed. I've never had to do this. After removing the bridge, I simply run the calibration function. When you do this, the bridge makes one complete turn and sets itself back to the "home" position. From that point, it will align perfectly with all the former indexed track locationscalibration function. When you do this, the bridge makes one complete turn and sets itself back to the "home" position. From that point, it will align perfectly with all the former indexed track locations. The biggest problem I have with the unit is the somewhat poor user documentation. Regards, Tom
Also, another person mentioned having to re-program all the tracks if the bridge is removed. I've never had to do this. After removing the bridge, I simply run the calibration function. When you do this, the bridge makes one complete turn and sets itself back to the "home" position. From that point, it will align perfectly with all the former indexed track locationscalibration function. When you do this, the bridge makes one complete turn and sets itself back to the "home" position. From that point, it will align perfectly with all the former indexed track locations.
The biggest problem I have with the unit is the somewhat poor user documentation.
Regards,
Tom
Tom, you are correct. I should have said recalibrate rather than reprogram.
Dante
P.S. I also agree about the documentation.
Rich,
Yes, it is the DCC version.
Tom, do you have the newer DCC version?
I have the older non-DCC version.
It may well be that the DCC version has a different method of programming and operation.
Rich
Alton Junction
After I programmed the unit indexing each track position, it does not stop at each track before reaching the selected track. For example, if I select track 7, it simply goes past tracks 1-6 until it arrives at track 7.
Also, another person mentioned having to re-program all the tracks if the bridge is removed. I've never had to do this. After removing the bridge, I simply run the calibration function. When you do this, the bridge makes one complete turn and sets itself back to the "home" position. From that point, it will align perfectly with all the former indexed track locations.
Velcro and programmed stops with the DCC 90" TT. Easy to set-up and works well. If you remove the bridge and reinstall it, you have to reprogram.
skagitrailbird I'm pretty sure it does matter whether you have the original control version or the newer (and current) electronics. I could manually operate the older one until the whole unit failed. I had it upgraded to the newer version and I don't believe it is possible (or at the minimum practical) to operate manually. The good news is that the indexing works much better. Rich, I remember the stops at every indexed spot but, if I recall correctly, holding the button down results in the bridge passing the unwanted stops until you release the button.
I'm pretty sure it does matter whether you have the original control version or the newer (and current) electronics. I could manually operate the older one until the whole unit failed. I had it upgraded to the newer version and I don't believe it is possible (or at the minimum practical) to operate manually. The good news is that the indexing works much better.
Rich, I remember the stops at every indexed spot but, if I recall correctly, holding the button down results in the bridge passing the unwanted stops until you release the button.
I have the older 130' non-DCC turntable, if that matters.
I initially programmed the turntable, using the indexing feature, but i got tired of having it stop at each pre-programmed position, so I cleared all of the stops, and now I just manually operate the turntable with the two buttons on the control box. Works like a charm.
Hey Rich,
How do you disable the indexing on the unit. I have the same issue and would like to just manually be able to control the turntable with the buttons.
Thanks, Rob
I hve mounted the control box on two small brass angle brackets that are screwed into the fascia and held down by a strip of electrical tape.
I disabled the indexing feature long ago and now I just use the buttons on the control box to manually align the bridge track. In fact, it is so simple and accurate that my 5-year old grandson was doing it over the Thanksgiving holiday.
Thank you for the replies. I will probably go with the velcro suggestion as that will most easily facilitate removal and re-installation on a control panel at a later date.
If anyone else has any experience with manually positioning the DCC turntable, what happened, and any drawbacks to using the as intended DCC indexing (shorts causing you to have to re-program that sort of thing), to include waranty violating modifications, your replies would be appreciated.
I can confirm that mannually moving the bridge to a specific track is not possible. Actually, there may be a way but it certainly is not what the manufacturer intended. I just tried to operate mine that way but I was unsuccessful. I had the earlier non DCC version and while it was mechanically possible to move the bridge as you asked, lining up the tracks was nearly impossible. I highly recommend indexing.
With regard to the mounting, like the others I used double backed foam tape. I wanted mine recessed behind my fascia so I built what is in effect a shallow box with one side extending outside the box about 1.5". I then mounted a small piece of plywood inside the box at an angle so the control box is angled in its box. The wall extensions serve as a flange so I can screw the box to the underside of the layout.
I never have mastered the process of posting photos. If you want to PM me with your email I will send you a photo of my installation.
I used sticky back industrial strength velcro to mount the controller to the layout fascia. That way it could be removed if necessary. I am unaware of any way to control the position of the turntable bridge without first programming each stop location. Regards, Tom
If the backs are smooth, you could use double-sided white foam tape to stick them to the control panel.
I don't have either turntable, so I don't know the answer to your question about positioning.
I have 2 Walthers TTs, both the 90ft and the 130ft. They both have the same Blue controller, solid plastic, with no mounting holes. Does anyone have a suggestion for mounting these controllers in/on a control panel?
Also I have not yet operated this turntable. Does anyone know if you can manually position the bridge using the buttons on the controller, or do you have to program each stop?