Modeling in Nscale change many rules which are used in bigger scale.
However I use a simple method which has give me excellent result.
I airbrush the track whith a earth/ tie brown color, in fact a mix of two Golden acrilycs artist airbrush colors.
When the paint is dry (a few minutes) I come back whit a brush and a whole asortiment of brown Vallejo colors, from deep brown to light brown .
Here an there, randomly I retouch by brush some ties whith the different brow colors, I also use some dark gray.
This touch up break down the uniformity of the color of all the ties.
When done, each file of track is painted whith Floquil, now Testors tie brow, whith a small brush; it seems difficult to do in Nscale but the process is fairly simple , and the result give a real old rusted and dusted rail.
The track is ballasted......slowly in perfect shape whith a brush ( a good rythme is one meter per hour).
I use the Gody Grino method to glue the ballast, I soak it whith Isopropilics alcool diluted whith some water, Its evaporated more slowly trhan pure alcool.
The ballast is glued whith white glue but I soaked whith glue only the exterior of the track, never between the file of rail, capilarity do the job and brings enough glue (in Nscale) to firmly glue the ballast between the rail.
Two days after, I inspect the track, to see there is no grain of ballast glued on the side of inner side of the track, I use a bright boy abrasive gum to clean the top of the rails and the whole area is vaccumed.
The last thing I do is wheather the the track whith a wash of india ink and isopropyl alcool. I also put some rust wash (from Vallejo) on the exterior of the track to simulate some rust on the ballast.
It seems to be a lot of work but I do it on long run of track, two of three days working and whith method I am able to ballast and finish big piece of mainline track in a few hours.
joe323 I think it is possible to over think this subject. I used a small paint brush and craft paint on both sides of the rail and the rust cover the tie plates etc.
I think it is possible to over think this subject. I used a small paint brush and craft paint on both sides of the rail and the rust cover the tie plates etc.
Joe323
I agree with you on the Over Think the Subject!
When a NUBE comes on here and asks a question - I just cringe at the responses one gets!
Just as the Weathering Track - Most NUBEs want a simple answer and those that give their OPINION - tend to make things out as they way is Gosple (at least that is the impression I get - and I have been on this form for over a decade)
Nothing changes - we end up trying to out do each other with OUR OPINIONS on a simple subject and the NUBE poster is so bewildered they want to forget they ever ask the question or leave the forum all together (AND I KNOW a number that have done so - so I know of what I speak).
While striving for Model Prefection (as some do) the Nube just wants to get going - as he or she gains experience they will move up the ladder of Modeling. They don't need it the first day out!
My OPINION ! YMMV ;-)
BOB H - Clarion, PA
joe323 I think it is possible to over think this subject.
I think it is possible to over think this subject.
Not true. It IS possible for one hobbyist to prefer a greater degree of realism than another, but that doesn't make one approach better. What is "good enough" for one modeler is "too simplistic" to another.
Most of us find a balance that suits us. Truly weathering / painting track, with all the possible color variations, even on individual ties, with rusty rails, tieplates (and the occasional stretch with new ones that haven'had time to weather to the same degree), would take weeks of labor on even a modest layout. Not painting /weathering is OK too, depending on the desires / tastes of the layout builder.
Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford
zstripeSome sidings you can't even make out a tie, let alone any headblocks. LOL.
Frank,That's been my goal on every ISL I ever built-urban industrial branch lines is at the bottom of the MOW barrel.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
I try to base my track weathering on prototype photos from the area modeled or similar.
This is the former WP main on Utah's Low Hill.
Here's an industry spur on the BNSF at Lamar, CO.
UP Ogden Sub.
UP Malad branch.
The latter two look (to me) a lot like Rustoleum's camouflage brown with some dry-brushing of tan and/or gray. The first photo is a bit more of the Floquil RR tie brown look.
Rob Spangler
Yeah, I guess that once you decide to paint your track, there are two issues:
One, what is the color of the ties/rails that you are trying to replicate.
Two, what brand and color of paint are you going to select for that purpose.
Rich
Alton Junction
Rich,
I guess I should have worded My reply differently.'' and fresh new ties and have yet to see a brown one''?
I never saw a new tie not even under a rail yet, that was brown....but I will freely admit, I did not go to all parts of our country and make color comparisons. LOL.
I should clarify also that when I airbrush the ties weathered black...when the rail brown is sprayed on the rails, over spray does go on the ties also, giving the appearance of rust from the steel rails.
Take Care!
Frank
Joe Staten Island West
I use a brush to paint my ties, and I use a very dark brown color, which equates well to ties soaked in creaosote.. I do this before ballasting. Remember that you only really need to get the tops of the ties, because the lower parts will be hidden by the ballast.. After conneting track feeders, I paint the sides of the rails rust using a small brush. It doesn't matter if you get a little on the ties, because it looks like weathering. Then, after the ballast is in, I use my airbrush to add black and rust weathering.. After painting, I wipe down the rails with a rag moistened in denatured alcohol to remove any paint from the tops of the rails.
Frank,
What I was trying to convey is that Floquil Railroad Tie Brown is actually a dark gray tone similar to the tie color in the Wikepedia photo.
The photo that I posted was intended to show that railroad ties are often brown in color since you indicated that you had never seen a brown tie.
I wasn't suggesting that the photo I posted was in any way suggestive of Floquil Railroad Tie Brown. Not sure how you managed to read it that way.
In any event, there was a good reason why Testors named that Floquil color "Railroad Tie Brown", namely because it closely resembles the color of creosote-treated ties.
Floquil RR Tie Brown does not look anything like the color in your photo or the one on the right of the photo in the link I posted...unless I'm color blind.
http://www.micromark.com/floquil-railroad-tie-brown-paint,8316.html
Bob H,
Yeah, I'm quite sure different parts of the country play a big role in the appearance of any trackwork. I start out with my trackwork looking the same...but that will not be the end result when finished. Some sidings you can't even make out a tie, let alone any headblocks. LOL.
They did start out, coal tar creosote though....which is highly flammable by the way.
zstripe I was reading all the replys and I'm curious why most everyone is painting their track with ''rail tie-brown''? Been around all sorts of railroad tracks yards, mains and fresh new ties and have yet to see a brown one?
I was reading all the replys and I'm curious why most everyone is painting their track with ''rail tie-brown''? Been around all sorts of railroad tracks yards, mains and fresh new ties and have yet to see a brown one?
Floquil Railroad Tie Brown is actually more of a dark gray tone than a brown tone.
As far as brown ties go, you can find them all over the place like in this photo.
zstripe I was reading all the replys and I'm curious why most everyone is painting their track with ''rail tie-brown''? Been around all sorts of railroad tracks yards, mains and fresh new ties and have yet to see a brown one? They are teated with coal tar creosote which is almost totally black looking, maybe some very aged grey in certain area's of the country. I prefer rail brown with faded black ties...then ballasted, as in the picture on the right in this link. <SNIP> Take Care, All. Frank
I was reading all the replys and I'm curious why most everyone is painting their track with ''rail tie-brown''? Been around all sorts of railroad tracks yards, mains and fresh new ties and have yet to see a brown one? They are teated with coal tar creosote which is almost totally black looking, maybe some very aged grey in certain area's of the country.
I prefer rail brown with faded black ties...then ballasted, as in the picture on the right in this link.
<SNIP>
Take Care, All.
What you state is true of the Mainlines - But
You must not spend much time around the tracks out in the Wilds of Western PA as that is the color you see RUST!
The lines were not high volume traffic in the era I am modeling and most of the tracks were being tore up in the late '80s.
SO modeling them - Rust it is - some don't care for the Mainline running or modeling for that matter and look for the lesser run lines to model.
While the mainline stuff is fun to look at - having a dozen or more Model layouts doing the same area (PRR - UP etc.) one doesn't really see much different, as they all are doing the same area of the country.
I like to see the seldom seen let alone Modeled parts of the big railroads done!
Thus I did the xPRR mainline from Pittsburgh to Buffalo in the early Conrail Era. Nobody has done that area that I ever found!
I accomplish that with solvent paint in My air-brush. Fortunate to have quite a few Floquil rail brown and weathered black bottles left. I mask off switch points and area's of elect. contact and brush touch up afterwards. Rail tops, I just spray over and run a Lacquer thinner damp cloth stretched over a flat block of wood, that will also let you know about a high spot in the joints, that you missed:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Railroad_tie
I prefer the brush since that gives me full control on the results I want..
However.
I used Mirco Engineering "weathered rail" on my current ISL and am quite pleased with its look..
I have tried a couple methods of painting track - air brush and small brush. The air brush did a good job as well as being quick and, if the tops of the rails are cleaned right away, not much of a problem. The small brush was tedious and I still had some cleanup to do. Last year, I bought the Rusty Rails painter - it sits unused and I think with that device there is still the issue of painting the individual ties. I will give the half inch brush a try. As far as color, i am sticking with Railroad Tie Brown - or equivalent on everything.
There's never time to do it right, but always time to do it over.....
My preference is to employ my airbrush to paint the track RR tie brown away from the layout before installation. I'm using M.E. track, but Atlas track might not lend itself to this method as I imagine the sliding rail would make for a bunch of little painter's holidays upon installation. Turnout rail I paint by hand with a brush, also before installation.
After installation and before ballasting I brush some paint washes of raw umber, burnt umber and light grey onto some of the ties in a random fashion. Then come back with a bit of india ink stain here and there and also add some raw sienna wash to the rail and tie plates for some rust.
good luck, regards, Peter
Thanks Paul for the update. I have not seen Rustoleum Camoflage colors of paint offered where I have to shop. It is always nice to know of other brands available and I will keep an eye out for it just incase I can't get Krylon. Doug
BOB H, I also have Joe's paint roller and had not tried it out yet. After reading yout post I went to the train room and tried your method. Forgot about the rollers and went with a 1/2 inch stiff brush, I used the cap on the paint jar and found that when I needed more paint I put the cap back on and shook the bottle. I found that it reduced the possibility of getting too much paint on the brush, although it took a bit more time. Very pleased with the results
I have used rattle cans (a two handed combo of red primer and camo brown or camo olive). I have also used Testor's Floquil paint sticks of which I have kept a good supply.
I take a Qtip with light household oil and rub it on the railheads. That makes rubbing off any paint that sticks to the rail head much much easier. Even if I used an airbrush I would still do the oiled Qtip thing.
Dave Nelson
rgengineoilerAre you sure that wasn't KRYLON Camo Brown? I use it all the time but I am not aware of Rust O using the same name on their paint can. I am a Krylon user for many things on my new build. Great products. Doug
What I used is Rustoleum Camoflage series spray can, color #1918 Earth Brown. Probably found it at Home Depot.
http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/specialty/camouflage-spray
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
I prefer a brush for painting rail, about 1/2" wide with a chisel-type tip and fairly stiff bristles. The wide brush requires re-filling less often, while the flat shape keeps the paint mostly on the rails and tieplates. The stiff bristles make it easier to work the paint in and around the moulded-on spike heads and other relief-type detail. This is not fine art work, and there's no need to paint particularly carefully. I use PollyScale paint, but any water-based acrylic should work. I can easily do 12' or 15', both sides of both rails, in five minutes or less. For clean-up, simply wipe the rail tops with a dry rag, then move on. Even though that paint is dry to the touch, it will wipe right off. Do allow the paint on the rails' sides to cure fully before running trains, though, preferably overnight.This method requires no masking, and creates no dust (as does sprayed paint which dries before landing), and clean-up is as easy as capping the paint bottle and rinsing out the brush.This means that you can paint rail anytime you have a few minutes to spare, although I find it to be a very relaxing operation. Turnouts, of course, take longer, but are no more difficult.Because the brush allows complete control, you can paint even where lineside scenery or structures are already in place, again without need for masking.And do paint both sides of both rails, even on shelf-type or around the room layouts - with digital cameras, it's easy to take on-the-layout photos from angles not otherwise viewable - why ruin the view with unpainted rails?
Wayne
I am by no means a pro, but I can tell you my experience on my first (and only) layout. I went with an airbrush and RR Tie Brown paint. Worked great for me, mostly. The one recommendation I would have is to do a very good job of masking the points on your turnouts. Make the mask larger than you think is required and make sure it is a paint-proof as possible. Take it from one who knows; it is a real pain to try and remove the paint after the fact.
Richard
MrMick...I am looking for some pros and cons about whether to paint, or not to paint, to airbrush or paintbrush.
Unpainted track will always look unfinished and toylike, so if you want realistic track you'll have to paint it. It eliminates not only the bright appearance of the rail, but kills the plastic sheen on the ties.
Spraying is often easiest to control for avoiding excess paint buildup, and ensuring even coverage. An airbrush works, and so will a spray can. If you prefer a bristle brush, be careful and use multiple light coats instead of one heavy application, at least on the rail.
This track is Atlas 83, the same as you're using. It was painted with Rustoleum dark brown camouflage using a spray can. I masked the points with pieces of strip wood wedged in place, and masked the ground throws with tape. Additional weathering was done following prototype photos. I dry-brush and wash acrylic craft paint to vary tie color and provide the appearance of older ties in this yard that aren't subject to frequent replacement. Additional acrylic weathering was done after ballasting, along with use of some chalk dust.
Note that tops of guard rails and frog wing rails are not wear surfaces on the prototype and won't be shiny. I repainted the tops of wing rails with the basic rail color.
Just rattle can it but tape over the throws and go back and touch up with a brush. You can spray some paint in a bottle with some thinner for the touchup paint.
I wated a long time to paint the track and ONLY did so after the Ballast was in!
Reason
I wanted the ballst to look rusty - giving the impression that the tracks had been in use for years (as they were ion the real Pittsburgh-Buffalo Conrail Mainline!
Originally I tried Joes Model Trains Paint roller wheel method and it made the painting go fairly fast but it ate up those little rollers quite fast (and with 4000 feet of track to paint - I was going to go broke buying those little rollers)
SO! - I started to use a small flat sided short bristle paint artist brush and paint in a medicine cup!
I found I could paint the track just as fast and NOT have to keep buying the Paint Rollers!
I also like to have the ballast with splotches of rust close to the rail and ties as I try to paint the TIE Plates as well as the rails.
I don't have to mask off the area as I would with a Rattle Can or Air Brush
Saves time in clean up and I just use a Abrasiver Track block to clean the paint off the rails!
Painting your track will make it look better. I paint my track. Usually it is best done before you put the ballast down.
Before I had an air brush, I painted the sides with a small brush. When the paint markers came out for track, I used them. Both gave good results. But since I have gotten an air brush, I use that. Now I paint the rails AND the ties with the AB before I ballast. You can also varry the colors more easily while doing it with an AB. I still use the paint pens for touch up work.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
Are you sure that wasn't KRYLON Camo Brown? I use it all the time but I am not aware of Rust O using the same name on their paint can. I am a Krylon user for many things on my new build. Great products. Doug