Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Attaching Walthers street system to foam board

1667 views
3 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    January 2011
  • From: Horsham, Pennsylvania
  • 412 posts
Attaching Walthers street system to foam board
Posted by woodman on Thursday, August 28, 2014 10:27 PM

I recently was able to purchase at a great price (12) Walthers street system kits and I am in the process of attaching the street and sidewalks to my layout which rest on 2" foam board. My question is what type of adhesive should I use to attached the plastic street system? Should I attach it the same way I attached my roadbed and then track to the layout by using caulk, or should I use another type of adhesive. Thank you for any advice you can give me.

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Denver, CO
  • 3,576 posts
Posted by Motley on Thursday, August 28, 2014 10:48 PM

I'm interested in this also. I had glued some sheet styrene to extruded foam, and also to some sheet cork using latex caulk. And it eventually came un-glued after a few months.

It might help adhear the styene or other plastics by roughing up the surface with some sandpaper?

Michael


CEO-
Mile-HI-Railroad
Prototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Chi-Town
  • 7,706 posts
Posted by zstripe on Friday, August 29, 2014 3:39 PM

Woodman,

I would use this product by DAP:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Weldwood-32-fl-oz-Nonflammable-Contact-Cement-25332/100174435

Roughing the plastic street panels with sandpaper, will surely help. Read the instructions and follow throughly.

I use the Original contact cement by DAP....BUT I am glueing it to Homasote...the brick streets. Over 12ft of it. What I do is build a section at the workbench, about three panels long, including, sewer grates and man-hole covers. Let set over nite, (I use Ambroid Pro-Weld, Original for That) then the next day I coat the panels and glue to street and start on the next set of panels. Found that to be better than trying to glue single pieces to the scene. After I get about 9 street panels in place, I use a slate grey pigmet, mixed with Denatured Alcohol and spread on with a 1'' foam brush and remove any excess with a paper towel and sort of rub it in. When dry I coat with two coats of Dull- Coat brushed on. I didn't mention...but I also glue any sidewalks in place at the work bench, that includes any paint that is associated with the parts installed at the work bench. It takes good measuring to achive all the fits....but it worked for me.

Have Fun! Big Smile

Frank

  • Member since
    September 2007
  • From: Wisconsin
  • 450 posts
Posted by Trynn_Allen2 on Saturday, August 30, 2014 10:46 PM

I used Woodland Scenics scenic cement when I glued my streets down.  The undergo at least 15 moves a season and haven't come loose yet, so for a static layout it isn't going to move.

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

There are no community member online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!