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homemade chainlink fence

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  • Member since
    October 2002
  • From: gig harbor, wa
  • 193 posts
homemade chainlink fence
Posted by GGOOLER on Monday, June 2, 2014 7:29 PM

decided after seeing others make a fence i thought i would give it a shot. 3/64 solid brass rod for horiz. piece.

also for the posts and 22 gage spkr. wire with the coating strip off for the lower horiz. wire.

some solder and some nylon vailing that my wife just happened to bring home from her business house that we are cleaning up.

a shot of some alum. paint and ha ha there it is.

 

last pic is with no paint.

so with one piece of 12" brass makes 40 scale feet which is 5.5" long

later

g

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • 10,582 posts
Posted by mlehman on Monday, June 2, 2014 7:42 PM

Good looking fence!Thumbs Up

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Central Vermont
  • 4,565 posts
Posted by cowman on Monday, June 2, 2014 9:17 PM

Nice job.  I have some tule, but will have to stop at the LHS to see if he has some brass wire.  Then to educate myself how to solder withyh an iron.  Good pratice for future feeder wiring needs.

Have fun,

Richard

  • Member since
    October 2002
  • From: gig harbor, wa
  • 193 posts
Posted by GGOOLER on Monday, June 2, 2014 11:21 PM

thank you guys, now ive got lots more to make.

later

g

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Bradford, Ontario
  • 15,797 posts
Posted by hon30critter on Tuesday, June 3, 2014 12:39 AM

Very well done!

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

  • Member since
    December 2001
  • 3,139 posts
Posted by chutton01 on Tuesday, June 3, 2014 3:52 PM

Any reason for using twisted multi-strand wire for the bottom fence rail (beyond "it's what I had on hand")?  Vertical posts and top rail do look straight though, and that's a big plus.

  • Member since
    October 2002
  • From: gig harbor, wa
  • 193 posts
Posted by GGOOLER on Tuesday, June 3, 2014 10:05 PM

chutton01

Any reason for using twisted multi-strand wire for the bottom fence rail (beyond "it's what I had on hand")?  Vertical posts and top rail do look straight though, and that's a big plus.

 

nope, i planned on using the wire from the start. my chainlink fence has a wire running along the ground. next one ill take a strand out. it just gives another glue point to take out any waving of the material, and should mostly be buried in some earth or weeds and grasses around the bottom.

 

dave, thank you

 

later

g

  • Member since
    October 2002
  • From: gig harbor, wa
  • 193 posts
Posted by GGOOLER on Wednesday, June 4, 2014 12:02 PM

wanted to see what it looks like in the ground. just temporay location just wanted to see how easy it would be to drill.

later

g

  • Member since
    December 2001
  • 3,139 posts
Posted by chutton01 on Wednesday, June 4, 2014 1:28 PM

So what are you using to attach the veil material (tulle?) to the posts - CA (which is the usual suggestion)? Did you just coat the posts with the adhesive and lay the material on that, or something else (I'm not seeing the usual glue filled mesh opening usually found on such projects, which is good). How is it holding up to handling?

Since I need to make some similar scale chain link fencing in a month or so (with the typical rod & tulle method) for a module, figured I just find out who did it best and find out how they did it, since they did all the cussing and cursing already ...

BTW, for what ever reason my brain did not autocorrect "3/64 solid brace rod" when I first read this thread 2 days ago, so I was a bit perplexed as to whay you meant. Clearly you meant brass rod, since you state so later on in your OP - unless you really did mean brace rod, whatever that would be...

  • Member since
    October 2002
  • From: gig harbor, wa
  • 193 posts
Posted by GGOOLER on Wednesday, June 4, 2014 3:33 PM

oops, sorry, yes brass rod. for the gluing i used regular old super glue. i tried using crazy glue gel thinking i didnt want glue all over. and the first attempt to glue did have globs of glue. i start at one end and glued the post.

i lay the material over the brass to glue and work my way down each section. keeping the fabric just alittle tight. just dabbing the glue on. then i glued at the end was the bottom wire to the material with just a drop to the center of each section. the material is laid on the oposite side of the lower hor. wire. if there was some access of some glue i just blew it off before it dried.

i then cut the access off with x-acto blade.

no cussing so far, my next ones ill do a better job on soldering

later

g

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • 743 posts
Posted by Steven S on Wednesday, June 4, 2014 6:41 PM

Nice job, g.  You can save yourself a lot of hole drilling if you only have the vertical posts at the ends and corners extend down below the bottom horizontal bar.   The "tweeners" can stop at the bottom bar.  This will allow a butt joint there, instead of having an overlapping joint.  It should make gluing down the tulle easier since everything will be in the same plane.

Also, the end posts and corner posts tend to be wider than the "tweeners" and the horizontal bars.   I just measured my own fence and the corner posts were 1.75" while the tweeners and horizontal bars are 1.25".  

 

I've mentioned this before but no one seems to recall it.  MR had an article (in the '90s?) about prototype fences with lots of drawings and data about them.  .

 

Steve S

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