BMMECNYC Actually its not. I havent finished that area yet. In fact Ive only put one track in. I used Micro engineering weathered track. I found the chemical weathering difficult to remove and therefore irritating to solder. For the rest I had already decided to use the atlas code 83. As for the inspection pits, anyone have any ideas?
Actually its not. I havent finished that area yet. In fact Ive only put one track in. I used Micro engineering weathered track. I found the chemical weathering difficult to remove and therefore irritating to solder. For the rest I had already decided to use the atlas code 83.
As for the inspection pits, anyone have any ideas?
-Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
farrellaafarrellaa wrote the following post 2 months ago: BMMECNYC Would and addition of .015in of styrene under the ties work for a transition from code 83 to code 100? I had to shim the tt pit with styrene to match the tie thickness of Atlas code 83 track. I don't know how thick the code 100 track is so if it is thinner than code 83 I would think you would. -Bob
This is probably way too late to help you, but someone else may find it helpful. IIRC the Atlas Code 83 flextrack ties are 0.017" thicker than Atlas Code 100 track so that the tops of the rails will line up when both Atlas types are used together - as a result, the Atlas 83 total height is higher than other brands of Code 83, and you will have to use that 0.015" shim under the other brand if you join them.
BMMECNYC Would and addition of .015in of styrene under the ties work for a transition from code 83 to code 100?
Would and addition of .015in of styrene under the ties work for a transition from code 83 to code 100?
Well, the pit will make it in today, and maybe the yard and lead tracks. The roundhouse baseplates are marked out (9 stalls plus machine shop) but not assembled.
What would be the best way to cut the inspection pits into my foam?
BMMECNYC Thanks for the photos and links. Im going with the cork under the lip of the pit suggestion. Crossing my fingers that I dont have to redraw the track plan, but im starting with the roundhouse/turntable and building from there. I figured it was a good anchor point to start with. I drew the track plan in RR-track V.5, but it doesnt have the Walthers TT or roundhouse for size comparison.
Thanks for the photos and links. Im going with the cork under the lip of the pit suggestion. Crossing my fingers that I dont have to redraw the track plan, but im starting with the roundhouse/turntable and building from there. I figured it was a good anchor point to start with. I drew the track plan in RR-track V.5, but it doesnt have the Walthers TT or roundhouse for size comparison.
BMMECNYC Crossing my fingers that I dont have to redraw the track plan, but im starting with the roundhouse/turntable and building from there. I figured it was a good anchor point to start with.
Crossing my fingers that I dont have to redraw the track plan, but im starting with the roundhouse/turntable and building from there. I figured it was a good anchor point to start with.
Rich
Alton Junction
I put cork under the tt rim to make it even with the yard tracks. Also recommend using a 'track guide/template' similar to the one shown to insure the bridge and approach/yard tracks are in straight alignment.
Here is another relevant discussion.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/182840.aspx
Hopefully, you can gleam some useful information from it.
I did say ''gleam'' not instruct. Aside from that other posters gave info as to how they set up theirs.
Everyone has a way that worked for them.
Mine was fitting the Turntable and bridge track first and then, roundhouse and approach tracks. The beauty of using Homasote for sub-roadbed. Measure, Measure, again and a completly level area.
Take Care!
Frank
Here is a thread that may be helpful.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/p/182149/1993580.aspx#1993580
This is the link that Frank referred to but it isn't going to help the OP because it deals with a bridge track that rides too low.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/229844.aspx
There are some forum discussions on the issue of transitioning the approach tracks. I will see if I can dig one up.
But, meanwhile, one solution is to place the same cork sheet under the lip of the turntable to match the height of the approach track. That is what most of us have done.
BMMECNYC,
Might be a good idea to review this thread. You could possibly gleam some info from it:
I will give some backround information on my benchwork. I am using a grid table design, with 3/8in plywood attached to 1x4 joists. Over the plywood is a layer of 2" foam. I am also using cork roadbed over the foam, with Code 83 lead and roundhouse tracks.
My question is this:What is the best way to adjust the level of the turntable pit/lead tracks, so that I have a smooth transition from cork roadbed to the edge of the pit?