Got all 14 Walthers passenger cars running real nice and smooth. I put a drop of light oil on each and every spot where the axle points touch, as several of you suggested.
Thanks for all of the suggestions and all of the advice. Much appreciated.
Rich
Alton Junction
Worked on dozens of Walther's passenger trucks, aside from distorted/ twisted sideframes, stripped or cocked bolster screws, deformed contact strips or a truck screw too tight, never came across a bad journal that light oiling and spinning the wheelset wouldn't cure free rolling and squeaks.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Some people use Pearl Drops tooth stuff to smooth out noisy gear boxes in locomotives. The gears in question are mostly plastic, though. Something to try might be a rubbing compound, essentially a very fine abrasive for automobile finishes. Put some in the bearing, run the cars for a while and then rinse it out with alcohol. Let it dry and apply some fine oil.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Hi, Rich
Although I have purchased a few sets of these I have not installed any as yet. Intermountain makes wheelsets with ball bearings... http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Intermountain-HO-33-Ball-Bearing-Metal-Wheels-p/imr-40058.htm
I understand they have 33" and 36" but you might have to dig around a little to find the 36".
If you are not concerned with lighting, since these are insulated, they might help reduce rolling resistance if that is your goal.
I bought them to replace the wheel sets in several brass passenger cars I have.
Happy Modeling! Ed
Thanks, guys, I will try these suggestions today.
Labelle #106 is plastic compatible white lubricating Grease with PTFE, NOT oil. The Labelle #107, is the oil.
I have used it with great success, over the years, not only trains, but R/C, trucks, and planes also, 1/12 scale.
Frank
The metal in the typical Walthers passenger truck is pretty tough stuff, even if not steel. If it's a generall tightness over the whole set, I would go the lube route first if there aren't any obviously bad order contenders that need attention first.
I can see either of the previous lube suggestions. I would try CRC 2-26 myself. It aids conduction, but is also a very light lube.
I've also heard of people using a moly-type lube with success.
As for the screws holding the Waltehrs truck together, loosening things up with the truck set on plate glass might help things settle into squareness some, which will also benefit the running qualities.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
richhotrain The cars in question are the Walthers Santa Fe Super Chief, non-plated, passenger cars. Rich
The cars in question are the Walthers Santa Fe Super Chief, non-plated, passenger cars.
If the truck journals are metal and the axles ends are needle bearing, I would just put a pinhead drop of Labelle's #106 in them. If there were any burrs in the journal it would be obvious, aside from that , it rolls on the needles anyway!
Have Fun!
mlehman Dave, My MM Truck Tuner appears to be steel. Most trucks aren't steel, rather something considerably softer. I suspect it works pretty effectively and will remove any burrs, which would be the main issue with metal trucks.
Dave,
My MM Truck Tuner appears to be steel. Most trucks aren't steel, rather something considerably softer. I suspect it works pretty effectively and will remove any burrs, which would be the main issue with metal trucks.
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I assume on metal trucks that the truck tuner would mostly act to burnish the metal in which case a small Phillips screwdriver tip twirled in the bearing opening would probably do much the same job.
Dave Nelson
I have heard of people using it on metal trucks. When they do, they get a separate one from the one they use for plastic trucks so as not to damage it. Haven't tried mine on metal.
I have an HO scale truck tuner from Micro Mark, but so far I have only used it on plastic trucks.
Will it work on metal trucks?
If not, what can I use to tune metal trucks?
Thanks.