Tin can man sir madog, I have been looking at it and ive noticed that price is a drawback to it,but would you agree that the saying of "you get what you pay for" applies here. I guess my question is,Due to the fact that it is higher in price means that its a goo quality product?
sir madog, I have been looking at it and ive noticed that price is a drawback to it,but would you agree that the saying of "you get what you pay for" applies here. I guess my question is,Due to the fact that it is higher in price means that its a goo quality product?
Sorry for coming back to your question this late.
Yes, IMHO, Kato Unitrack is of good quality. I never had any electrical issue with it, nor any derailment. The only issue I had was one switch not working properly, but it was my fault, as ballast and glue got into the mechanism - hence my warning. I dismantled the switch, got outr the blobs of glue and ballast, and everything worked fine again.
Kato Unitrack does not look really good without some tinkering with it. The minimum you should do is to paint the rail sides with a rusty brown color. I gave my track a spray of dark brown and added ballast, which was a bit awkward to do in N scale. But the result of this task was worth the sweat I put in - see for yourself:
On a finished module, the track looked like this:
HO Unitrack also has very narrow code 83 rails, much closer to prototype than Atlas or Walthers / Shinohara code 83. I'm retrofitting metal wheels on my older cars that came with plastic, and I find semi-scale wheels work great on the track.
For me, the biggest advantage (besides being easy and reliable as mentioned earlier) is that you can test things out before permanently installing the track. I started a few weeks ago doing the next section of my layout, where the single track main splits into double track and runs along a river or lake. I tried a couple of different configurations until I found the one that looked 'right' and best fit the space. That would have been much harder with flextrack and cork roadbed.
Once you know where the track is going to go, it's easy to add Woodland Scenic risers to raise the track. For curves, I usually break the WS pieces into 'chunks' about 3-4" long and put them under the track. That's easier than using pins to hold the WS riser to make it follow the curve.
I built a small HO layout 6 years ago using Kato Unitrack. Since that time there have been zero problems with it or the turnouts however the tie spacing isn't accurate for North America. I have some Atlas in my yard and although it is all code 83, the Kato track is finer in that the rail isn't as wide.
I am building an N scale layout and have done it with Micro Engineering track as I wanted to avoid the type of restrictions noted by Chuck. It is very popular in N scale as it is renowned to be bullet proof. One thing nice is the built in switch motors inside the turnouts.
CN Charlie
wjstix (signature 'stix') has been the champion of HO Unitrack for a long time. You might want to find one of his posts and launch a private message (aka 'Start a conversation.')
In my world there are two sharply-divided tracklaying philosophies:
Kato Unitrack is the ultimate in quick and easy. There is no way that it can be made accurate to prototype if your trackwork:
Or, in other words, follows that of a specific prototype in a territory where the countryside stands on edge and watercourses are only navigable by kayakers living out death wishes. Since I model that prototype, my track is laid with flex and I hand-lay my specialwork.
Note that this is not a value judgement. Both approaches are appropriate. One size does not fit all.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I got my start using Kato Unitrack and it was bullet-proof. As Madog mentioned, it is pricy and the selection of pieces, robust as it may be, does limit what you can do, especially if you are trying to avoid and s-curves. Other than that, I have no complaints.
Richard
I used Kato N scale Unitrack for my last N scale layout and was quite happy with it. Kato´s Unitrack joining system provides for excellent connection and the wiring system allows for simple, but efficient wiring of your layout. A word of caution is necessary, though, if you intend to add ballst to the track to make it look more realistic. Just make sure that neither ballast nor any glue gets into the switches. I see only one major drawback of Kato´s Unitrack track system - it´s the price!
Iam starting a new layout and iam looking at using Kato Unitrack with the roadbed already attached,has anyone used this track or have you used it in the past and what has your experience been with it? Thanks for your input