Phoebe Vet I used code 83 atlas snap switches on that section. I changed when I built the rest of the layout. Atlas makes a code 83 track set specifically for the River Pass.
I used code 83 atlas snap switches on that section. I changed when I built the rest of the layout.
Atlas makes a code 83 track set specifically for the River Pass.
Hi Dave
I will be using 100 flex as I already have it.Using flex having less joins and I will be soldering a lot of it to lessen dead spots.
I also did not buy the kit so I don't have a template but I do have the number of sectional track to work from..
I completed the modification to my 4x6 i now have the proper size 4x8 it really made a difference looks a lot bigger.
I haven't made this layout a lot harder by not having the kit and the flex track but time will tell.
Joe
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
Phoebe Vet I learned a great deal building the River Pass. I learned that 3% is too steep and 4% is WAY too steep. I only run one way on it, so the subway is always running down hill on the 4% section. I learned that 6 axle locomotives don't like 18 inch radius curves. There are no 15 inch curves, they are all 18 inch. I have since made the outside curves on the ends 22 inch. I learned to build mountans and how to put elevated flat sections in the middle for buildings. And most importantly, I learned to plan ahead for things I may want to do later. Example, if you look carefully you can see the turnouts I added for future expansion. I also ran wires so that someday I could light the buildings. That is so much easier to do during the early stages of construction.
I learned a great deal building the River Pass. I learned that 3% is too steep and 4% is WAY too steep. I only run one way on it, so the subway is always running down hill on the 4% section. I learned that 6 axle locomotives don't like 18 inch radius curves. There are no 15 inch curves, they are all 18 inch. I have since made the outside curves on the ends 22 inch. I learned to build mountans and how to put elevated flat sections in the middle for buildings. And most importantly, I learned to plan ahead for things I may want to do later. Example, if you look carefully you can see the turnouts I added for future expansion. I also ran wires so that someday I could light the buildings. That is so much easier to do during the early stages of construction.
Phi Dave
What turnouts did you use?
Hard to have a conversation when it takes hours for you to see my posts.
If you have 1"x4" (or similar) framing under your initial layout, take off the ends and splice a similar piece inside the existing frame. Move the end piece out to become your new end. Unless you plan something quite heavy on the ends, it should hold up just fine. You could add an additional support piece under the center, if desired.
EDIT; Probably should put a plate under the seam also.
Good luck,
Richard
I hear you Dave and your input is very much appreciated.
The main reason for my going for the river pass is the scenery I dislike flat layouts. Also I like mountains and tunnels plus elevation. This will be a permanate layout no room for expansion and I wanted something that will look great.
I am also aware of the inclines can't say I care for the 4% but I will have to use it possibly downhill if I can. The overall look is very appealing to me the only unappealing thing about the layout is the town.
I plan on eliminating that to a train maintenance area or sawmill with dirt or gravel roads there will be no pavement or sidewalks if I can help it.
I will be building this without a kit I have a fair amount of the risers, profile boards and what not.
I will be using 3' flex track code 100 which I already have and cork road bed which I also have.
I will be wiring it for DCC but will be using DC for the time being.
I hope to be able to call on you for advice from time to time.
One thing you will learn building the River Pass is good scenery construction techniques. It comes to you like this:
Rockster,
AHHH, The old 10lbs into a 5lb bag ploy!
Have Fun! We have great confidence in You.
Frank
Hi
I have come to realize with your help what I was proposing to try and fit a 4x8 layout to a 4x6 was not a good idea.
I have decided to add 2 extra feet and make my layout 4x8.
Now to figure out how to add 1' to each side on a finished 4x6 to make it 4x8 and make it look good since it is in the family room .