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Elevation grade

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  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, October 11, 2004 9:39 AM
Thanks to Ken, Bob, Wayne, and DSchmitt for the info. I have just designed and have begun constructing a new 7x12 ft. HO layout and was having second thoughts about the grades. I have enough rolling stock and engines to taylor the loads, so appreciate the advice.
Bill
  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: California - moved to North Carolina 2018
  • 4,422 posts
Posted by DSchmitt on Monday, October 11, 2004 1:30 AM
Since our space is small and trains are short compared to the prototype, modelers generally use steeper grades than the prototype would. Also prototype grades are often not steep enough to be visually efective on a model railroad. 2% is good for an area where the prototype would use 1% or less, 3-4% for mountain grades. Extra power or helpers should be used on grades in the 3.5-4% range

I tried to sell my two cents worth, but no one would give me a plug nickel for it.

I don't have a leg to stand on.

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Christchurch New Zealand
  • 1,525 posts
Posted by NZRMac on Monday, October 11, 2004 1:02 AM
Wayne

my grade is around 2% I checked it using the method above.
eshel wants to know what guidelines are

Ken
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, October 11, 2004 12:56 AM
Ken gave you a method of measuring the grade. Are you asking what the optimum grade for a layout is? That requires a lot more info up front and will result in a wide range of answers.

A common, generic response is 2% with 2 to 4% being to be the general range but any answer requires knowing what type of trains & locos you are running. Are you using helper locos or multi-units motive power? Are you running long freights or short passenger trains. Particular locos have limiting tractive qualities.

My N scale layout has grades up to over 5% but those will only see short, unloaded logging cars being pushed up the grade and loaded cars coming down.

Wayne
  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Christchurch New Zealand
  • 1,525 posts
Posted by NZRMac on Monday, October 11, 2004 12:32 AM
I cheated and copied the above reply from the newbies forum

THANKS BOB


the method works really well

Ken
  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Christchurch New Zealand
  • 1,525 posts
Posted by NZRMac on Monday, October 11, 2004 12:20 AM
I use a 24" plastic level from Lowes Home Improvement; 1) prop the level up level with the high end on the track, 2) measure the distance from the level to the track on the low end, 3) divide the height by 24, 4) multiply the answer by 100, 5) percent of grade. Say that when you get the leveling all done and the measurement is 1/2 inch, divide .5 by 24 and that equales .0208333. When multiplied by 100 it comes out to 2.083333, that means that for all practial discussion you have a 2% grade. You can use a 12" level just take step "3" and divide by 12 instead of 24. All measurements have to be in the same measurement IE: inches, feet, mm, or whatever. When I lay sub roadbed I use two pieces of cork roadbed under the down side of the level and it gives me pretty close to a 2 % grade.

Have a blessed day and remember SANTA FE ALL THE WAY
Bob
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Elevation grade
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, October 10, 2004 11:33 PM
Are there any guidelines for the per cent track grade to use in building an HO layout?

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