Well it's been quite a while, decided to tear the layout down, and redo it. I learned that 5ft deep is to hard to build on. so im going to do something easier.
My 13x9 L Shape Garage Layout build
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/225242.aspx
https://www.facebook.com/OahuModelRRSociety/
Here is the Link to our Club.
Proctous Im still around! hehe, been busy with our HO Clubs layout alot. I havnt really worked on it in a year. But I will post pictures of how far I am.
Im still around! hehe, been busy with our HO Clubs layout alot. I havnt really worked on it in a year. But I will post pictures of how far I am.
Glad you are still around. Thanks for posting the photos. I gather you enjoy working on the club layout. Thats great, but hope you can get back to work on the personal layout soon. Any photos of what you have been doing at the club?
I tried to sell my two cents worth, but no one would give me a plug nickel for it.
I don't have a leg to stand on.
Ok here our some pictures
I created these quickly built Top layer moduels that I can use to raise elevation ontop of track area.
Shows how the modules Fit and are used.
Then I used pink foam underneath them for support at an angle and covered with plaster cloth.
Then I countined that all the way around.
Video of it working.
http://vid155.photobucket.com/albums/s299/grl0218/train/vid1_zpsz0qmh6d1.mp4
wildecoupe A little old of a post, but found this while Googling for layouts. Curious if you've gotten any more work done on this. Looks like a nice layout.
A little old of a post, but found this while Googling for layouts. Curious if you've gotten any more work done on this. Looks like a nice layout.
I would also like to know. I wonder what happened to the OP. He hasn't posted to the Forum since his last post to this thread.
Yup, thats exactly what I did. I also saved a ton of money by learning how to remove solder and the joiners from turnouts so i could reuse them. A Vice, 40W needle tip, and pliers works well.
You're welcome!
I finally remembered how to post a track diagram so here it is. Hopefully this is what your understanding of my spiel is:
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Proctous:
I would like to suggest a small change to eliminate an 'S' curve in the lower right corner of your layout.
You have a right hand turnout coming off of the main line. The track off of that turnout is then curved back to run parallel to the main. Then you have a second right hand turnout leading to a third line also parallel to the main. If you are running from the main to the third track your train has to go through an S curve. That might cause some derailment issues. I would suggest changing the second turnout to a left hand. A left hand turnout can be connected directly to the diverging route of the first turnout and then both tracks can be curved to parallel the main. No S curve.
I'm trying to remember how to post a diagram of my suggestion but so far all I have managed is a series of brain farts. I'll keep trying.
So it's been a while since I have worked on this layout. Club layout needed more help than mine own :) But I now have time to start working on this again. So I wanted to post an update on what I have done so far.
So I had someone else that makes layout plans make some adjustments and tweaks. Should ensure smoother operation now with turnouts on flat surfaces.
Next I laid down my paper track layout and put down the foam risers.
Track is just to visualize the look, it’s not glued or anything.
Also was messing around with tunnels, had to use a double wide one to fit at an angle. Think it works nicely. Havn't seen one like this.
Next step is to Plaster over risers and make hills I guess.
rrinker Note on the original plan that it was NOT designed to go into a corner - it says "open access for staging tracks" along the 'corner'. Now, if this is going to sit int he middle of a garage so that at least SOME time (the second car is not in the garage) there will be access to the back side, then reach in will be marginal but doable. If it's going in a corner agains walls on 2 side, there will be absolutely no access to the lower left, even if you're NBA pro in height. Definitely check the clearance, and the grades. Seen that a lot when N scale plans get blown up to HO - X and Y dimensions get scaled up to fit the curves but the Z dimension gets forgotten and only an unloaded flat car can get under the overpass. --Randy
Note on the original plan that it was NOT designed to go into a corner - it says "open access for staging tracks" along the 'corner'. Now, if this is going to sit int he middle of a garage so that at least SOME time (the second car is not in the garage) there will be access to the back side, then reach in will be marginal but doable. If it's going in a corner agains walls on 2 side, there will be absolutely no access to the lower left, even if you're NBA pro in height.
Definitely check the clearance, and the grades. Seen that a lot when N scale plans get blown up to HO - X and Y dimensions get scaled up to fit the curves but the Z dimension gets forgotten and only an unloaded flat car can get under the overpass.
--Randy
It's not really in a corner, Here I updated the picture. The top side by the bench isn't exactly, there is more then 2 feet to work in.
So far what I did was take my track plan to UPS and get it Printed to 166 pages so I know exactly where all the track goes, so no guess work. Also the only inclines i have are 3% grades. and for only running about 6-12 cars max due to size, this shouldn't be an issue. All curves are greater than 22in also. the only spot that is going to be a pain is the top wall side against that wall locker. But I already have a way around that. I have a painters scaffolding that can go ontop and allow me to lay on top and work quite easily.
Scaffolding
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
ProctousI can reach every inch of this.
Many people have been disappointed to find that they cannot reach as far over a scenicked layout with structures, trees, etc. as they can over bare plywood, but perhaps your experience will be different.
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
S
BMMECNYC What is the tallest piece of equipment you are running?
What is the tallest piece of equipment you are running?
thanks for leave coments, i do read them. I already have the bench work and foam board ontop and I can reach every inch of this. I dunno, maybe my arms just long or something. I raised the table to able 42in high. allows me to have more eye level viewing and allows for shelves underneath.
The only thing that is stoping me now is figuring out a effective and quick way to lay track and slopes for 2-3% grade. mostly the bottem side where the staging tracks are. Not sure how to build this so that they are under the moutain but ontop of table.
What's your plan for accessing the back? The distance to that bottom left corner is going to be close to 8 feet(!), so even with a corner access hatch of some kind you may find it hard to access all of the track if something derails, stalls, etc. You might consider a couple of hatches here to get to the rear tracks, especially if they will be staging or in tunnels.
I forget-- did you specify the height in this thread? That will factor in, of course, but I think consensus seems to be 30-36" max comfortable reach.
EDIT: I just found the image where you show the layout's placement, so scratch the access issues above. I'd still worry about the center, though-- it might be just far enough to be problematic accessing the track you added to make the wye, especially if the bottom two sides are relatively high.
P
Here is the Anyrail layout of the same thing, just blown up to HO size. all curves are 22in and 24in+. only thing was giving me issues was the two turnouts needed more curve, so i used a Pico curved turnout. Though I really wanted to use the Atlas ones i already have, just do know how to make them work. Im only 29 and this is my first layout other than a oval I used all atlas snaptrack with. I know my trains work on these turnouts as i used them before. this time mostly everything will be flex track.
ProctousAlso I like running modern locos like SD70ACe for mainline
That longer engine probably won't work well through a Snap-Switch. It may depend on the length of the cars to which it's coupled how reliable things are. Since you have the parts, you can try it out before you build to see if you are satisfied with the way it works.
#850 and #851 are Code 100 Snap-Switches, they have tighter frogs than a #4.
#281 and #282 are #4 (actually #4 1/2) "Mark IV" turnouts (another name for track switches).
Snap-Switches are not #4s. The numbers come from the angle of the frog, lower numbers are sharper. Snap-Switches are about a #3 1/4 to #3 1/3.
Also I like running modern locos like SD70ACe for mainline and shorter stuff for indus with GP35 or something. shouldn't be to much a problem right?
I guess I dont know what a #4 is then. I have the Atlas #850 and #851 turnouts, and they use the remote snapswitch machine to turn them. is this what you are talking about.
Proctous i was planning on using atlas code 100 flex track, is there any reason not to use this? also atlas snap switchs #4.
i was planning on using atlas code 100 flex track, is there any reason not to use this? also atlas snap switchs #4.
Snap-Switch frogs are much tighter than #4. They aren't a good match for radii larger than 18". The Atlas "#4" turnout is actually about a #4 1/2, so it works well with radii in the 22-24" range or so. The Atlas #4 is different from a Snap-Switch.
If you want to use the Snap-Switches because you already have them, then you'll be limited in the length of cars and locos that will run reliably, but that's a decision only you can make.
That's definitely an N scale plan, although I can't remember the issue. Note that the vertical clearance is only 2 1/4" where tracks cross one another.You'll need to check the grades in your expanded plan with HO clearances. Note also that if your inner radius is 22", your outer radius for double-track will need to be at least 24.5".
You'll probably also want to check your reach distance into the corner. It helps that you can reach from both sides, but typically folks cannot reach more than 30" across a scenicked layout.
Best of luck.
Well last night I was using the computer program Anyrail to try to replicate this to HO scale for my space given in garage. Both ends are 5 feet and the long side is 13 ft. So I can keep to a 22in minimum so that larger locos like sd70ace have no issue, I think I should be ok. So far only the inside loops are 22in and outside it 24 or 25. So not so bad. I bought all this Woodland scenic’s foam risers because I thought it might speed up the process, so I’m going to use those.
I also have mostly Atlas Snap turnouts and switches, also going to be using a DCC NCE powercab. I don’t know if I will need the larger power pack for this layout or if the basic one can handle it.
Looks like a good plan for the space you have.