Meadow's Lumber - HO Refurbish & ReNewal

[mcfunkeymonkey]

wdcrvr

 Where did you get the roofing texture that you printed on the cardstock? 

Can't remember exactly.
I think I just googled "asphalt roofing shingle" to get:

And then shrunk it down and copied/repeated it in Word doc.

I thought it might be on the awesome graphics website CG Textures, but I don't see it now.

I probably should have cut up the strips to have more breaks across the roof, but I can fake it with a pen and more weathing later.

 

[wdcrvr]

Love the freighthouse.  Where did you get the roofing texture that you printed on the cardstock?

wdcrvr

[wickman]

Your making some really  nice  progress on the layout.

[mcfunkeymonkey]

Also been working on some structures.
Wanted to refurbish a freighthouse my friend left unfinished:



And underneath:



So I rebuilt the deck supports:



[and finally trimmed / finished the roof on the depot!]

Added a "stone" foundation:



Tried some roofing textures printed on cardstock:



I found spraying a thin layer of dark grey primer on the back helps keep the cardstock from wrinkling when gluing down (which I did with spray adhesive on the cardboard and thin-spread whiteglue on the white strip]

Stained the roof paper edges, then stained the deck & supports to create a more weathered effect:



Finished up by weathering the roof with powders, staining the walls with a wash, and slightly streaking the deck with a felt pen.
In place:



Looks tight, but seems to allow all cars & locos so far.
(Not glued down, so can always move / trim)





[yes, still need to put in some bumpers!]

And depot in place:



Now off to build the Fuel Dealership and refurbish the turntable.
Thanks for looking.

[mcfunkeymonkey]

Thanks, Mike.

I tried cutting the iso gaps with the sooper-thin Dedeco 0.009" separating disc, thinking I wouldn't have to use a styrene spacer, but it just looked too narrow a gap for HO.
(As in any change in temp could close the gap, though now I'm thinking maybe letting paint drip down into the gap... Nah.)

So I used the regular thin Dremel disc, which allowed enough space to insert some [0.030"?] styrene strips:



(Didn't have any black styrene, but will stain with a Sharpie later)
Secured with CA, trimmed and then shaped with a triangle file:



Seems to work alright, though in some situations there appears some vertical shifting in the rails on both sides of the gap.
Probably should have just used the plastic rail joiners.

Next time  

Spent a day dropping feeders and soldering up jumpers, inserting replacement ties to fill the gaps, and then spray-painted the track:



Used dark-grey primer with spritzes of light grey and rusty brown.

After paint dried, I finished shaping and sculptamolding and rockcasting the low hill in Town:





With a few shacks and some trees, will make for a partial viewblock between Town and Woodmill:



[cont.]

[mlehman]

MC,

The magic is working. You're really doing some amazing work within the constraints of this project.

mcfunkeymonkey

Instead of using the PECO plastic insulators, I was thinking of just threading the rail onto clipped plastic tie sections: Maybe secure with CA (9 inches away the rails will be soldered to the PC board ties), maybe slip in some styrene & shape to rail to act as buffers/fillers. Thoughts?

Yeah, I don't know about that. I've no experience with Peco track, but most plastic tie material gouges and deforms easily. I'm guess the Peco plastic insulators aren't very tough either, but suspect they be easier to replace than the ties would be  when that is needed?

[mcfunkeymonkey]

Alrighty, laid down next-to-last track, at the big lumber mill

Looks like it's time to carve, shape & finish the low hill with shacks that as visual scenic divider in the middle of the peninsula.

Multi-purpose loading / storage tracks:



One stick of Peco extends a few inches into river / logpond, so will model old dock with some leftover bents:



Not terribly useful to ops, but looks cool and can be either older disused dock or allow the few inches to work a car-longer cut of cars on the siding.

Will wrap with old wood & make to look like a real dock section.

Right now refurbishing a pre-made turntable.
Will continue rocking on the Monday!

Thanks for looking.
Cheers!

[mcfunkeymonkey]

Thanks for the kind words.

Yes, having the PECO switch machines attach directly to the turnout underneath works well, though I usually have to place some masking tape around the hole so the ballast & dirt doesn't fall in :)

However, one of the great aspects of the PECO turnouts is the spring-loaded throwbar, so the swichmachines (and all their wiring to toggles, etc.) is totally unnecessary.
Unless the turnout is out of reach, of course.

For this peninsula I'm not even installing the switch machines, as all turnouts are within reach and it's easier to just finger-flick them.

Alrighty!
Almost finished laying down all the town / yard trackage:





Still have the turntable pit to "dig" and the track that goes down to the big sawmill by the pond.

I left off the final 9" of track before the edge because I want to build the drop-down bridge first, and then lay the track over the gap (a trick I learned with Free-moN sections to ensure alignment):



I also want to wire up that last 9", the bridge and 9" on the other side to momentary contact buttons on either side of the layout so the track stays dead until button actively pushed.
Maybe connected to a flagman or signal for visual affirmation that the track section is live/dead.
Hopefully that will prevent any spectacular flying leaps into the concrete canyon like in Back to the Future III.

Instead of using the PECO plastic insulators, I was thinking of just threading the rail onto clipped plastic tie sections:





Maybe secure with CA (9 inches away the rails will be soldered to the PC board ties), maybe slip in some styrene & shape to rail to act as buffers/fillers.

Thoughts?

Well, Silicon Valley Free-moN has a Great Train Expo show this weekend at the Alameda County Fairground (in Pleasanton, CA):
http://www.greattrainexpo.com/shows/2014Pleasanton.html
Peninsula N-Trak and the Bay Area Z dudes will have their fab layouts as well (11 layouts of all scales in total!), so hope people can come on down!

Thanks for looking.

[wickman]

Really enjoy going back to page 1 and skimming to your present state. I really wish I would have gone wish peco switch machines with my peco switches rather than the tortoise and ds64 stationary decoder,the possibilities with using the foam board would have so much easier.

[HO-Velo]

mcfunkeymonkey

Diablo Valley Lines -- as a Walnut Creeknative

M.C., BTW, first visited the Diablo Valley Lines in the late 80s.  My son who was about 12 at the time was very into the "Ghostbusters" and he sure liked that the club had a giant "Stay puft" man in their downtown scene.  Always enjoyed the lighting effects and how day turned to night, also the sound of an approaching thunderstorm, and then suddenly the visitor aisle being very lightly spritzed with water from overhead.  Great show those guys put on, and I'll bet they still do.

Regards, Peter

[HO-Velo]

M.C.,  Looking good!  I like the depot, the fine shingle detail appears to be worth the drudgery.  Being able to multi-task with the boob tube is a plus.  Got a big kick out of your Jack Nicholson reference having done some HO shingle work myself, lol!  

Really cool how the layout shares space with the antique truck.

Good luck and regards, Peter

 

[mcfunkeymonkey]

Thanks for all the paint suggestions.
Will probably go with a high quality satin or eggshell dark grey or brown when all's done.

Trying to finish the depot before finishing the track, as the depot will determine track positioning.
I thought shingling N scale structures was boring, but at least a single strip is enough for the whole roof!
Not only are HO structures huge, but necessitates splicing shingle strips.



Just ONE SIDE took almost fulltime of the San Jose Earthquakes last match (vs Portland), which turned out to be almost as mind-numbing as the shingling.
Felt like McMurphy at the end of Cuckoo's Nest.



But next season Quakes have a proper new manager & a proper new stadium, so hope exists!

Started laying track out of the tunnel:



Left track will be the log dump, right is the yard lead.
As track had to adapt to benchwork constraints, accessing the yard involves dropping cars off over the turnout, running around the log-dump side, pulling the cut back into the tunnel and then pushing into the yard:



[Yard ladder is directly at bottom center in photo]

A bit awkward operationally, but only 1-2 operators and short cuts will help.

Laid that section, then brought in the depot and saw an opportunity for a team/freight loading track, so spliced in a wye turnout:



By using a Dremel and carefully shaving rail back, was able to just drop the turnout directly in.

Laid rest of yard tracks:



The new freight/team track runs up to the depot freight dock (where flatcar sits).
Depot (with shingles still half-finished   ) & other structures are just temp placed to ensure spacing.



Yard tracks at 2.5" spacing & plenty long to sort / store most rolling stock available.
If I keep water next to depot, then will raise on a foundation.

Next trip will focus on turntable leads & figuring out exact pit location.

Overview of whole Town:



Track on rightside not caulked down yet.

Next steps: 
--cut foam & install TT
--building drop-down bridge to connect both wings
--finish Town track & spur down to lumber mill
--track wiring

But moving along nicely

Today at home I'll be shingling the other side of the depot (while listening to the 49er's beat New Orleans)
And starting to build the Fuel Supply structure that will be opposite the TT.

Thanks for looking.

["JaBear"]

Gidday MC, nice work. I’d go for the black satin, more washable if necessary.

Go the Royals.

Cheers, the Bear. 

EDIT.  

 

[mcfunkeymonkey]

Thanks for the feedback.
Peter: Funny you should mention Diablo Valley Lines -- as a Walnut Creek native, I've been visiting that layout since I was 6 years old (early 80's) and always loved the tunnel scene.
First place my young kids go now, too.

I'm going to make this access panel solid to help distance the upper mountain area from the town.

Given materials available, I finished priming all the fascia with the dark grey spray stuff:

[the access door is in place to receive the primer, will get hardware hinges/hook later]

Removed all the NCE PCP panels & turnout control panels (had to wrap those with plastic baggies), sanded the surface, and then painted fascia with a flat-black interior latex:











Later will paint all the rockwork greyish back to the fascia.
Slimed another layer of caulk along edges where future water will meet woodwork.

Will paint another layer of black after ALL the scenery is done.
Am very much debating using a satin or enamel for the final coat, as the flat seems to attract smudges more than my kids' soccer cleats do mud & goose/dog poo.

A bit down the line, but any suggestions for the final fascia coat?

Thanks for looking.

Now back to enjoying the 3rd SF Giant World Series in 5 years.
Be sure to wear flowers in your hair while you chug 4 straight.

[wickman]

The layout looks really great. Some 15 years back I went to a Toronto train convention and on one of the layouts the guy had a small peep hole through the  facia and when you looked in there was an entire great looking scene. Nice thought  with your facia access hole.

[HO-Velo]

Hi M.C.,  I like your facia tunnel window.  The Walnut Creek model railroad club's Diablo Valley Lines has a similar tunnel viewing window.  Yeah, rolling on the facia paint works good.  I roller painted mine a flat dark brown, but maybe I should have went with the satin as the flat doesn't lend itself to easy clean up of the inevitable smudges.

good luck, regards, Peter

[mcfunkeymonkey]

Thanks for the kind words.
Progress continues!

The fascia is 1/4" MDF except for the inner curved section: there I'm using 1/8" masonite to get the curve.
To prevent cracking while installing, I first dampened the section (didn't have a spray bottle so used soaked papertowels):



Then installed:



The clamps are holding slim masonite splicing plates / reinforcement behind the fascia.

Spackled the fascia and sculptamolded the gaps between layout & fascia:



Will paint new rocks later.

Cut out the access panel:



The panel will have hinges on bottom and hook latch at top.
Installed the stop at the top, which doubles as reinforcing where the hook latch hardware will screw in:



Back on other side, sanded down the fascia:



And started with the primer:



Been using a spray primer but think I'll switch to roll-on paint get get a more even coating.
Eventually will be all flat black.

Thanks for looking.

[HO-Velo]

M.C.,

That Dwight's family is going to carry on with his vision is noble.  Great that you have time and energy to see the project thru.

regards,  Peter 

[mlehman]

MC,

Good to see that this project will have some suitable closure. Looks like some interesting work to come still.

[mcfunkeymonkey]

Well, the layout is back on track.
My freelance work & continued search for "real" employment (as well as a garage workspace that gets up over 100 deg in the summer) has left little time for or interest in my own model railroading.
But a few weeks ago I was contacted by Dwight's widow, and she and her son (& grandkids) want the layout finished.
I gave her several options of smaller layout design options, but they want to stay with Dwight's original plan.
(Which is nice, as the benchwork & foam was already in place)

Just a reminder what "Phase II" looks like (the "L" of the far left side and bottom to the drop-down bridge):



Started with completing the trackage to the logging camp:



Wanted a more haphazard tie arrangement, so I cut all the ties underneath with a hobby knife, removed about 1/2 of them, then crazy-angled them.
You can see the difference between the top siding and the untouched other sections of flex.

I did the same wonky-tie technique for all the other flextrack in the logging camp area:



Started to attempt with the Peco turnouts but chickened out. Will de-emphasize their "perfect" ties with dirt & paint.

A shipment of sheds showed up from the MidWest, so I started playing with them to ensure car clearances.
There'll be a raised loading platform in the middle, which I'll scratch on top of this high-tech template:



After covering the points & throwbars with blue tape, I spraybombed the track a base of dark grey with spritzes of light grey & rustish brown:



I'll go back and paint the points with Neolube later.

Dwight wanted switch machines & toggles on control panels, but the turnouts on the new section will be totally finger-flicking manual.
(Thank goodness, as the control panels were a time-sucking PITA)

Finished installing the cleats for securing the fascia between the logging camp and the sawmill pond:





2"x2"s attached with woodglue & CA around the edges to hold piece in place while woodglue cures.

And started attaching the 1/4" MDF fascia along the Phase II section:



The clamps are holding pieces of MDF reinforcement behind the fascia panel edges.
Spackle fills in the screw sinks.

I left a lip where the log pond touches the layout edge and sealed the gap with clear caulk:



So none of the future thin Magic Water pour drips down to the floor.

Just got the latest turnout shipment in, so will start laying the rest of the track in the town & yard soon.
That, and design/build the bridge between sections:



Thinking about a flat drop-down bridge, hinged on the left, with a deadbolt underneath that slots into a reinforced hole on the right.
Probably with wiring to ensure the last few inches on either side are dead when bridge is dropped.
(And adjust plan so there's room for a engine at the end for runaround move)

Anyway, so things are moving again.
Any/all feedback & suggestions always appreciated.

Thanks for looking.

[HO-Velo]

M C,   Have been enjoying your excellent thread.  Condolences on the loss of your friend.

Sincerely,  Peter

[mcfunkeymonkey]

Thanks for the kind words.
Given what a headstrong fighter Dwight was, along with the fact that his father is still kickin' strong at 94, it was a major shock to all of us that Dwight, at only 72, passed away so suddenly.

A memorial service is set for Friday, May 23, 2014.

As for the layout: I'm not sure if it will be completed or not.
One set of grandkids live close by (the other set about 40 minutes away) but the trains were all Dwight to delight and engage the kids, so we'll see.
After the service and after the family has a chance to gather we'll chance to talk more about his trains.

Very sad he passed before the summer: he was very much looking forward to running trains with the grandkids after the layout was completed.
They did get to run some trains on the mine and small-town side some months ago.

Will update after family and friends have time.
Thanks for reading.

[mlehman]

MC,

Thanks for the update, Some great work there. Sorry to hear that Dwight won't be along any further. He was inspirimng you to some fine efforts there.

["JaBear"]

Gidday MC. Great work as I have come to expect, but more importantly sorry to read about your friend. Condolences to his family.

Cheers, the Bear.

[mcfunkeymonkey]

So as of this week, here we are.
The new mainline is in:







Smooth running from the SmallTown:



Out to the Mine:



Or to the Logging Camp:



And to Main/Interchange Town:



With the drop-down to connect the C:



Would be a fun layout for grandpa and grandkids, especially as they were getting old enough to start building kits and making trees themselves.
Will let you know what happens.

Thanks, Dwight, for all your smile and heart.

And thanks for reading.

[mcfunkeymonkey]

Dwight wanted to keep as much of the original layout scenery as possible, so I just tried to re-lay the track as smooth as possible:



Sanded the spackle smooth, painted tan, cut out space for the switch machines, spackled smooth, spray-bombed dark under machine and points, trimmed and soldered three turnouts together and installed with caulk.

Notice I had to carve out channels for the existing feeder wires.
Simple V-groove and paint in the spackle.
Ballast will take care of later.

Other angle, showing flow into existing layout:



Unfortunately, when laying the new track past that existing scene, I made the silly mistake of soldering two lengths of flex together to the turnout at the other end of the passing siding:



And then attaching the switch machine to the turnout before caulking the track.

Which means that after removing the ties for the bridge deck and laying down caulk, I had to "thread" the flex into a tunnel.
HO is much more forgiving.
Could have left the last 4" un-caulked and soldered on the next piece (tunnel piece) after getting the bridge in place.

But was trying new technique recommended by Dr. Dave Vollmer: instead of soldering rails to PC board embedded in bridge, apply Pliobond to rails, let dry, and then heat with soldering iron to activate bond while positioned on deck.

So I removed ties from bridge rails, applied PlioBond, let dry, then laid out track:



After securing track in caulk, placed 3-point gauge on rails and held in place while heated rails with iron:



20-25 seconds every few inches (alternate rails) secured the rails fine.

That's how I secured all the rails on wood: straight bridge, curved bridge, and coaldump deck:



The coal unloading dock deck was made out of available balsa stained with a trench carved out under the holes:



The rails on all the decks are easily stained with NeoLube (or paint pen).
Later I'd fill/place some coal in the top of the dock to show full.
I am going to build the coal dump plank-by-plank around the painted foam under the deck.

[cont.]

[mcfunkeymonkey]

In terms of bridge building, I scratched the decks and chopped some already-bought GCG bents down to size.

The straight deck was easy:



But the curved section of the mainline required some track-tacking, deck cutting and trimming (with chopsaw, of all things) to get a decent angle:



Once decks and bents were set, and banks carved out to fit, I slapped some tinted Sculptamold down and set the bridges in with a good shove:



Next time will use a lot more cheapo craft paint and water to tint the Sculptamold.
But anything's better than white.

Painted the creek base dark dark in prep for water.
Really wanted to try DKS' "no pour" methods from bottom bridge up.
Will probably pour a thin layer of magic water at the bottom bottom as I want a flat calm "big river" out in front past the near the coal dock, and even-level pour on which I could rest a barge.
The tapemeasure shows where the coaldock/unloader will go:



Dwight really wanted a 1930's WPA concrete ford across the river, so that will go on our side of the creek (before the "deep" river) but still need to carve out the road left to right on the diagonal.

On the other side, I started mocking up where the main Lumber Mill will go:



Dwight has a dude in Nebraska or somewhere building these kits and then mailing them out, and the dude does a great job at many fine details (down to the sawdust).
[I've started my hand at a couple HO laser kits but that's a story for later ]

Out of the tunnel at the top right will be a log dump into the log pond (will need to cut away the foam after securing the rails).

Here's a wider view of the Main Mill scene, with a little view of the logging camp that will be hidden by trees:



(otherwise they could just roll the logs down the mountain, eh?)

And most of the Logging Camp landforms are in:



I was thinking having an operating log loader a la Kermit Paul http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/magazine/mrh-2011-03-Mar/lone_pine_tonopah though really picking up logs with fingers and placing on cars could work just fine.

[cont.]

[mcfunkeymonkey]

Foil, however, does come in very handy in creating tunnel rock-wall liners.



Shape a trough wide enough to include about 2" both above and below the side wall:



Let it sit about 15-20 minutes, and then when it's all gooey spray the foam wall with water and press the foil plaster up against the tunnel:



Making sure that the plaster squishes along the bottom floor and top ceiling.
Wait another 1/2 hour and peel off:



Pressing sections next to each other can seemlessly extend a tunnel liner:



Here are 4 one-foot sections slapped together:



And painted with a simple India Ink & Iso Alcohol wash:



Voice of Experience says plaster cast in foil takes washes and paint differently than just pure plaster, so you might want to experiment with tinting and/or painting casts and painting before planting.

[cont.]

 

[mcfunkeymonkey]

Using foil for "signature" high-profile rocks doesn't work (duh), as the non-weathered angles it creates look as un-natural as 20 plastic surgeries on a single face, so don't do it!
So I ripped it out:



You can see that I also had another brainfart and though that "GreatStuff" was a good way to attach the plaster casting to the foam.
Wrong.
Big mess.
Shoulda worn gloves.
Horrible texture and bonding.

Really the big issue with GreatStuff is the texture: you're going to have to cover it with spackle/Sculptamold/etc anyway, so why not just shove some papertowels behind there and Sculptamold that SOB?

Better result, as you won't have that yellow porous crap shining through.

Anyway, I wanted to try creating my own rock molds through silicon & dryer sheets (http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/magazine/mrh-2010-NovDec/silicone_rock_molds) but I didn't get around to it so I replaced it with WS plaster castings (thank goodness for the big ACE bag o' plaster!)



Though some of the better foil castings came in handy in places I knew would be covered by trees:



And at angles difficult to view, like this gorge / tunnel portal:



So it's worth it to have a few foil "molds" ready (takes 5 seconds) for the leftover plaster you're using elsewhere.

[cont.]