The normal cork roadbed for HO is a bit too high for a branch line. If I use N scale cork, there will be a gap in the center of the rails. Any comments will be greatly appreciated.
73
Bruce in the Peg
I used N scale cork for secondary tracks all over my layout. I installed it three strips wide, with the one in the center upside down so the angled edge was hidden.
The track closest to the fascia here is laid on three strips of N scale cork.
Here's the same track after ballast. The thinner roadbed more readily disappears into the scenery compared to the thicker material under the middle tracks.
Rob Spangler
You can find thinner cork sheets at craft stores. You'll have to cut it to width, but otherwise it should work.
Good luck
Paul
I used Creatology Fun Foam sheets for the roadbed under my industrial sidings. This stuff is available at Michael's in 12" by 18" sheets for a buck each. These sheets are about 2 mm thick and are nearly as dense as cork roadbed. Just cut a sheet into lengthwise strips about 1.5 inches wide and you get 12 feet of thin roadbed for one dollar. Even if you use two layers, it's still only 2 bucks for 12 feet of roadbed. I also use this material to "pave" my roads (over a .040" sheet styrene base).
Hornblower
Lets assume I do use sheet cork or sheet foam. How do you bevel the edges to support the ballast?
Or, do you pile up the ballast against the square edges?
You could cut the edges at a bevel. I've seen a tool someone here made to do it. Sorry don't know how to find it or what you would search for.
The easiest thing I can think of, would be to take a little Sculptamold and fill in along the edge. Shape it to the desired angle. Let it dry, then add your ballast.
Good luck,
Richard
Blind Bruce Lets assume I do use sheet cork or sheet foam. How do you bevel the edges to support the ballast?
You don't need to. To conserve on ballast, use some play sand from the home center which can be had for maybe $3 for a 50 pound bag, and then add ballast on top of it. Gluing that with the ballast is far easier and quicker than trying to mess with plaster or some other material.
I have used Midwest Cork and have been completely satisfied. A dremel tool with a sanding round end piece takes the edge off very easily. I have just completed a full box of cork in about 2 hours in the garage. Each piece, with both edges, is sanded very lightly with the dremel tool on as slow as it will go. You will be pleased with the results using this method.
John Dionne
Hi, I used N scale for some HO terminal tracks, and had to use three pieces rather than 2. It came out pretty nice.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
This is what I use: http://www.amazon.com/Dooley-Cork-Roll-Inches-24CR/dp/B0043U49ZU
Cut it to 1.5" width and it will work essentially the same as the expensive, brand name roadbed. Plus the low profile looks good as a branch or spur line.
Homabed has a line of 1/8" thick roadbed products milled from Homasote. Nice stuff and spike-able but rather more expensive than the sheet cork and foam suggestions above.
Dante
Just a suggestion; I use double thickness of gasket cork for my roadbed. It is about 3/32" thick and comes in rolls at auto parts stores, like NAPA or O'Reilly. The bottom layer is 2" wide (about the same width as regular commercial cork roadbed) and the top layer is a little more narrow, at about 1 5/8". I have not ballasted this yet but I'm thinking either using tile grout or gluing play sand in the "stair-step" to create the bevel or just filling in with ballast. The former method would be to use one of the fillers, then ballasting.