My 15x20 O Scale layout is built on door slabs. I used 1.5" pvc pipe and fittings for legs with 1x2 cross braces. Very sturdy; not issues. I always look for damaged slabs a the big box stores...have bought more than one for $5.
Dan
Dannyboy6 Hi Dan - Sounds promising. Hadn't thought of the hollow core door idea. I'm pretty sure I'll need 36" x 72" and wonder if doors that wide are available (and affordable). I checked my local Lowes and found the 2" foam in 4x8 is $34. Add to that the cost of a 1x4 frame and supports and the door idea sounds better all the time. Especially since this will likely be a temporary layout for me. Thanks - Bill Hi Bill, Hollow core door slabs work great for this purpose too. I bought mine at Menards for $17 new...heck a couple of weeks ago I found 3 of 'em being thrown away by a neighbor, jackpot! There are times when I've cut them down to a size [smaller than 24x80] and I just fill in the end with a piece of pine [glue and brad nail in place]. Have Fun! Dan
Hi Dan - Sounds promising. Hadn't thought of the hollow core door idea. I'm pretty sure I'll need 36" x 72" and wonder if doors that wide are available (and affordable). I checked my local Lowes and found the 2" foam in 4x8 is $34. Add to that the cost of a 1x4 frame and supports and the door idea sounds better all the time. Especially since this will likely be a temporary layout for me. Thanks - Bill
Hi Bill,
Hollow core door slabs work great for this purpose too. I bought mine at Menards for $17 new...heck a couple of weeks ago I found 3 of 'em being thrown away by a neighbor, jackpot! There are times when I've cut them down to a size [smaller than 24x80] and I just fill in the end with a piece of pine [glue and brad nail in place]. Have Fun!
Thanks everybody for your encouragement and good ideas. I will probably keep this pretty simple for the time being as it is meant to be just a temporary layout that may or may not be used after my HO layout is back up and running. I know from experience that a medium (14' x 11') layout can take 6 months or more before trains are running and the n-scale layout is meant to be a quick and dirty bridge to make use of a bunch of PRR locos and cars I recently acquired. So the n-scale layout will be a flat, scenery-less oval with a couple turnouts for interest. I definitely like the 2" foam with 1x4 enclosure idea. I'll post some pictures once I get the project started. - Bill
galaxy,
Good advice there. For these smaller layout sizes, 1" really is strong enough, unless you've got kids who'll play rough on it (which is probably beyond the bounds most would expose a layout to, unless it was for Thomas ).
If your plans favor more terrain, substituting 2" foam gives even more strength and lots of room for carving away, if you need relatively low relief. If you need more, it's easier to add foam layers on top of the surface, although that tends to take away from the stick it under the bed aspect.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
Hi
I built a 3.5 foot x 5.1 foot HO scale layout to be very lightweight as someday it WILL be moved out of a spare trailer BR to a basement of a house hopefully.
I built it Similar to Mr. Beasley. I used 1x4s for the outside and 1x2s {the good ones, not the cheap furring strip irregular ones} fo the inside supports 12" on center. I used 1" Blue extruded foam {same as the pink exruded foam} on the top, which, unless you want deep ravines, is very adequate and strong. The 1x2s are recessed enough so the foam sits level to the top of the 1x4s.
{If you do wnat deep ravines, I'd use 1" for the bottom, and another cut out layer of 1" on the top.}
Now, I also used the 2% Woodland Scenincs {WS} Foam risers and 1" inclines on the top of the 1" blue foam to create "terrrain variations" in height so I would not have a "flat plywood prairie". They are as here if you are unfamiliar:
http://www.wholesaletrains.com/HOProducts2.asp?Scale=None&Item=WDSSUB
My layout is on wheels so I could pull it out to get to the back if necessary. But you want to put in closet, I would use saw horses, BUT strengthen the underside where the saw horses are to sit with at least 1/4" luan plywood so as to not tear the foam!
The base weighs very little, but add the other "Stuff" and it will grow in weight. Use WS faom parts {or any cheap thin white foam} for any tunnel structure you might want to add. I did.
Have Fun!
-G .
Just my thoughts, ideas, opinions and experiences. Others may vary.
HO and N Scale.
After long and careful thought, they have convinced me. I have come to the conclusion that they are right. The aliens did it.
Steve built the frame out of mitered 1x4s and attached 3/4 inch square stock along the bottom of the frame to support 1/4 inch plywood. He use metal corner braces to reinforce the frame on the inside of each corner so he could stain the frame after he finished the layout. He then glued 2inch foam into the frame, giving him a 3/4 inch lip around the entire layout.
Sorry to hear about the flood, but unless you want the issue for more than just that article, you might be wasting your money. The article was only 3 pages long and most of that space was taken up with photos and the track plan. Construction of the Benchwork was only a 3/4 column sidebar.
Hope this helps.
Chris Ballinger
Modeling the Clementon Branch of the Pennsylvania-Reading Seashore Lines in HO scale
I checked the layout database but only found the 3' x 6' "Spartanburg Subdivision". The online plan does not include any benchwork information. Guess I'll have to get a back issue. Lost all my old copies in the 2011 floods here. - Bill
Hey Bill,
I believe the article you are referring to is A Track Plan That Fits Under a Bed, by MR Staffer Steve Otte. It can be found on page 44 of the October 2011 issue of MR.
Good Luck!
Chris
At the N Scale Enthusiast's Convention in Milwaukee a few weeks ago, I attended an excellent clinic by a fellow named Greg Johnson, who showed how he used Gatorfoam to build his layout -- very light, but with the added advantage over "pure" foam that it also has strength and a thin but load bearing strong surface.
Fortunately Greg has written up his experience in the Summer 2011 Layout Design Journal of the layout design SIG, and it is one issue that you can download for free. Scroll down to page 17: http://www.ldsig.org/sites/default/files/ldj_43_sampler.pdf
Dave Nelson
Thanks Mr. B. This is exactly the encouragement I was looking for. The plans are for a portable, possibly temporary layout to make use of some n-scale equipment I recently acquired. Turnout machines won't be an issue, since I use hand-throws on all my layouts. I also expect this to be an old-fashioned DC layout with block selectors. My last 3 HO layouts (and the new one) are DCC and I swore I'd never go back. That is until I tried to install a decoder in an n-scale Atlas GP-7. Not something the average modeller should try. Thanks again - Bill
If you really want to save weight and if you've got a good art-supply store nearby, you might look for large sheets of foam core instead of wood. That stuff is pretty strong. It's not cheap, though. Dick Blick has 4x8 sheets listed for $27.
Steve S
Mr. B,
Nice work!
For a 3x6 that needs to be put away, I think just building a frame as Mr. B has done should work. That will give you about an inch of clearance under most of the layout to run wiring, although I'd keep it taped down once finished to avoid snags.
If you were planning on using a Tortoise or one of the other switch machines that protrude underneath the layout in typical installation, you'd need a deeper frame. I think a Ix6 frame might work and a 1x8 definitely; you can also recess the machine into the foam when mounting it for extra clearance.
BTW, for a framed panel only, I'd use a foam-compatible adhesive along the sides to hold the styrofoam and on the tops of the corner gussets and run screws into where the wood meets at the corners inside under the foam.
This isn't from a magazine article, but it should be enough to get you started.
The outer frame is made of 1x4 lumber. Inside that, I added cross rafters of 1x3 lumber, lined up with the bottom edge of the outer frame. I put 2-inch foam inside, so it sits inside the frame for protection and only protrudes 1 inch above the frame. Before adding the foam, I stained and polyurethaned the wood. This provides a nicer finish, more "furniture-like" so it fits in better in our family room. The legs are 2x3, and the triangular gussets at the corners are 3/4 inch plywood. You can see some diagonal bracing of 1x2 lumber for stability.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I'm planning a small (3' x 6') n-scale layout to get me through the few months it will take to tear down my old HO layout and build a new one. I've used foam before but for scenery only. I seem to remember a layout in one of the magazines a while ago, that was just a slab of foam with a 1 x 3 wood frame built around it. I need this layout to be light with probably minimal scenery so that it can be stored in a closet when not in use. Does anybody remember the article I'm referring to? Thanks - Bill