How far from the edge?

[mobilman44]

I've always felt that the tracks should be at least far enough from the edge so that if a car topples on its side, it will not fall on the floor.   So typically a 2 inch "border" is OK, but the minimum.

[GGOOLER]

if using tortise switch machines need a 1" centerline.

so i go no closer than 1" from the edge of the roadbed.

if i have framing in the way. then it needs to be adjusted for the framing material thickness.

later

g

[selector]

The subject has been well covered.  The question was correctly asked, for good reasons, and I think we all agree that running tracks parallel and very close/too close to an otherwise unprotected or unmodified layout edge is just begging for some unnecessary expenses at some point.  You'll get your wish with a probability of about 90%, too.  Doesn't matter if you watch it closely or turn your back on it for a second...it'll happen with near certainty.  Happened to me.

One consideration is moving around beside or past, and reaching over and beyond, the close edge that we're discussing.  If there is a narrow aisle involved, then adding thick strips, or spacers and strips, of ANYTHING is going to make the working space that much narrower.  Similarly, adding poles and trees is just going to add more snagging features for clothing or bare elbows right where they shouldn't be in my opinion. 

Two very practical options are thin hardboard, masonite, doorskin, or 1/4" quality plywood, such as the mahogany-covered ply I use, ...OR....the plexiglass/Lexan mentioned.  They are both quite thin, flexible, clear in one case, and you don't need many dollars worth of either of them.  In fact, I intend to top the mahogany ply fascia at the front of my yard module, where the track runs within 2.5" of the edge of the layout, with a 6' strip of plexiglass about 2" tall.  One of those inches will be backed by the fascia and screws will secure it in about three places.  The top freeboard inch will do nicely to secure tippy rolling stock and also afford a clear 'fence' that won't interfere with the view, if at all.

Crandell 

[BroadwayLion]

Build your 4x8 layout, with the tracks as close to the edge as you like. THEN before you start running trains add another 4" of 2" thick foam around the entire layout. It is ok to simply glue it under the table edge, this will give you a  1/2" or 3/4" drop in elevation for these four inches. Here is where you put the scenery It does not carry the weight or dynamics of the train. Of course your Lookenpeepers must keep their hands and stuff off of the table edge.  LION has added to the layout in this manner with good results.

[dknelson]

This problem is inevitable with a 4x8 layout using 22" radius curves.  Over the years guys have tried any number of fixes, most of which are mentioned above.  I do recall one idea which is to drive in nails at intervals at the edges, and use them as a basis for home made pine trees.  I suppose you could even make larger nails look like utility poles but the spacing is such that there would still be gaps big enough to not prevent a disaster.

One idea mentioned above is to have a wider layout and actually, adding even a 4" or 6" wide 8 foot long strip to one edge and then just shifting the entire layout over a little bit, would solve most of the problems except for the very farthest points of the two curves -- where you at least have isolated and minimized the problem.  Adding that strips creates some layout bracing issues unless it is a pure cantalever.

Another solution which can be disappointing in other ways is to forget 22" radius curves and go with 18" radius.  Of course that means only suitable equipment can be run and in some ways that can even dictate your era away from the modern day to the four axle diesel/40 ft freight car days.  That in turn means you can use #4 turnouts rather than #6s.  While yes, 22" radius can "fit" on a 4x8 it will create the very issues we are talking about here. 

In an older issue of Model Railroad Planning, Tony Koester says by all means get a 4x8 sheet of plywood - but then have the lumber yard rip it down the middle so it is two sheets of 2'x8' and make an L shaped point to point layout out of it.  Don't reject that out of hand.  It opens up a wealth of interesting track plans for switching layouts that would be far easier to add to the larger layout that may come some day.

Dave Nelson

 

[John Busby]

Hi

The back of my layout is very close to the edge and has a fence up to keep trains in the fiddle yard rather than the great void.

The visible side of the layout the closest the track comes to the edge (not counting bumpers which are super glued and screwed down to make sure they don't move). is 3.5" which is 0.5" closer to the edge than I would like.

The fact that not much can be done in the 4" to the edge is a good thing in my opinion as it stops you putting telegraph poles or anything else that would impede access to the trains in the way.

Quite frankly how close your track plan looks to the edge would scare the heck out of me without some kind of barrier to keep the trains on the layout.

regards John

 

[peahrens]

I built a slightly larger layout but wanted moderate radii, so I also put my track farily close to the front and rear edges, about 2-1/2" to the ties. 

In the front, if you will install fascia, you can also install it a bit high (I did 1-1/8") as a bit of a rollover barrier, balancing the view blockage against the rollover protection going higher.  Along the back edge I will have a backdrop, so the 2-1/2" space for scenic-ing will definitely be challenging.  If you want to use backdrop (min depth) buildings alon an edge you can look at what space they require. 

I could have provided wider edge space but really wnated to keep my curve radii up (about 26").  It's a balancing act.  Anyway, lots of tradeoffs to consider...no "right" answer.  I agree that locos are pricey, so I do suggest some rollover protection (or hard rubber locos).   

[Regg05]

I would definitely listen to everyone on here as a word of advice.  I built my last layout 22'' radius curves right to the edige so it was parallel to the benchwork and my trackwork on that side of the layout was pretty accurate as never had a derailment before in that spot but one day my Athearn P42 decided it was going elsewhere and off it went....off the track and .5 ft down to a ceramic tile floor......the bloody thing didn't stand a chance......engine cradle broke in half...shell cracked in several places motor and screws everywhere.. This was just a month and a half ago and I'm still sick to my stomach when I think about it...on my new layout that definitely will be taken into consideration during the tracklaying stage..

Reggie

[alco_fan]

Build the table wider and you solve your problem.

[cowman]

Like Galaxy, I have a plexi glass fence around my 4'x6' HO layout.  Due to the small size I have one place that the track is right out to the edge.  Just had to be sure that locos didn't hit it when they rounded the curve. 

I spaced my fascia out from the frame enough so that the plexi could be slipped in and out behind it if I wanted to do work on the layout.  There is an article on this under VIDEOS/Expert Tips above. 

Actually mine is probably 6" above the track, but the layout may be used as a public display.  It is to not only keep train from taking the plunge on their own, but also keeping little fingers from helping them.

Just a couple of suggestions, but since you are using flex track, if you can bend it just a little more in a spot or two, so it is not always running parallel to the sides, it will look more realistic.  You could alter your curves slightly to break the sameness of the curve.  Also, if you put a view block down the center, your trains will go somewhere out of sight.  Again, don't center it or have it parallel to the edges.  Rock cut, tunnel, buildings, bridges and trees can all be used to mask the end of the divider.  Doesn't need to be the same on both sides either, disappear behind a building, pop out of a tunnel.

Good luck,

Richard

 

[lifeontheranch]

Other than the issue of rolling stock taking the plunge to the floor, also consider it is very difficult to scenic the area between the track and edge into anything that looks believable.

[BroadwayLion]

LION has several places where the ties are 1/4" from the edge. But LIONS also have third rail (well faux third rail)  and this will keep a train from taking an excursion to the floor. Eventually the fascia will also add some protection.

On bridges and overpasses, and in elevated stations, railroads simply use guard rails or in older days 4x4 timbers to protect trains from falling. Sometimes it worked, sometimes not so good.

ROAR

[galaxy]

I used plexi to make a "fence" to keep rolling stock on the table, NOT on the floor. Remember that besides the measurement of the height of the loco and RR cars, there is momentum behind them  when moving as well pushing towards the edge if something goes awry. Idid this because, like your layout demonstration, my track was close to the edge.

I ALSO added a "frame" around  my layout of 1x4s so as to ADD some extra room for leeway between track and edge with the plexi surround.

 

[CTValleyRR]

Depends on what the edge is. If it's a 4' drop to a concrete floor, then yeah, 2" is a bare minimum. On the other hand, of there is a small lip at the edge, that will avert many disasters, and a 2" high strip of clear lexan is just about bullet proof. Similarly, if you're 2"from a wall or backdrop, no worries.

[BRAKIE]

How comfortable are you with your track work and rolling stock?

2" is pretty close but,workable.

[hustle_muscle]

I recently designed a 4 X 8 trackplan in the Right Track Software from Atlas. If the track is measured from the center of the section, how far away does it have to be from the edge? This is the plan I designed:

The layout is mainly made up of flex track sections with a maximum 22" radius and minimum of 18" on the siding. The turnouts are Atlas Custom Line #6 and #4. The straight sections are placed at 2" from the table and the mainline curves at 2.5".