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Building an old spur line.

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  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: Omaha, NE
  • 10,621 posts
Posted by dehusman on Sunday, June 9, 2013 7:40 AM

Just remember that model suspension systems do not work like real suspension systems.  Individual axles in a real car or engine can move with respect to each other.  Not so in a model engine, the axles are rigidly held and only the entire truck pivots.  On model cars the same applies unless they have sprung trucks.

It is very easy to get track so out of whack that the engines can't negotiate it or lose traction/electrical contact. 

Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • 10,582 posts
Posted by mlehman on Saturday, June 8, 2013 11:19 PM

superbe
For those familiar with brass track, would that be easier to bend?

Probably not. NS track is pretty flexible, especially code 55 and below. They may still have code 40 if you want it really flexibleSurprise In fact, NS may work better than brass for getting gentle curves.Kisses

And remember that this is a piece of track where contact may be less than ideal. I'd generally suggest not putting up with the hassle of brass track, but an even better idea to use NS when there's uneven track to deal with.

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Brisbane, Australia
  • 784 posts
Posted by mikelhh on Saturday, June 8, 2013 11:19 PM

To do the track on my rundown spur [based on an actual line]  I soldered short lengths together, and tweaked it with pliers

I glued it down, and after testing that it was trafficable I buried the ties with a mix of clay, tea leaves and crushed twigs, all of which was glued down ballasting-style. There were lots of gaps underneath that needed filling.

One of my videos of it...I couldn't work out how to embed it. Best to hold 'shift' if/when you click the link.

http://vimeo.com/38297764

The biggest issue with doing this is uncoupling due to excessive vertical travel. I have only a few items of rollingstock that can handle it without becoming uncoupled, and they cope because they have slightly overscale couplings. Atlas locos handle it better than my Proto 2000s.

Mike

Modelling the UK in 00, and New England - MEC, B&M, D&H and Guilford - in H0

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • 87 posts
Posted by JohnB. on Saturday, June 8, 2013 10:36 PM

superbe

John,

I really enjoyed the video and especially seeing the double stacks rocking and rolling.

Our local short line, the Winchester & Western used to be known as the Weak & Weary with good reason.

One question... was that track worked planned or just an accident?? Big Smile

For those familiar with brass track, would that be easier to bend?

 

Bob

I'm not positive but it seems like it was planned to me.

John

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Shenandoah Valley The Home Of Patsy Cline
  • 1,842 posts
Posted by superbe on Saturday, June 8, 2013 10:13 PM

John,

I really enjoyed the video and especially seeing the double stacks rocking and rolling.

Our local short line, the Winchester & Western used to be known as the Weak & Weary with good reason.

One question... was that track worked planned or just an accident?? Big Smile

For those familiar with brass track, would that be easier to bend?

 

Bob

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: West Australia
  • 2,217 posts
Posted by John Busby on Saturday, June 8, 2013 9:42 PM

Hi

I think I would go for the overgrown rusty buried look.

Without the bad track its easy to lay good track, but very hard to lay bad track that works properly

I would be worried about on going problems with the bad track.

regards John

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • 10,582 posts
Posted by mlehman on Saturday, June 8, 2013 9:08 PM

Get some ME code 55 track and gently abuse it. Remember it's mostly about vertical action, you don't want to get things out of gauge. Then spike it, being careful not to take all the "wobble" out as you do, leave some slack in some of the spikes. Then dirt it in with ballast or even just dirt or other ground cover.

For sure once you have it laid, run back and forth across it with the motive power and rolling stock you plan to use. You still want things to stay on the track unless your a Fan of the Frequent 0-5-0. If good/badWink, then ballast and otherwise finish "garnishing" it.

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

  • Member since
    January 2001
  • From: US
  • 1,774 posts
Posted by cmrproducts on Saturday, June 8, 2013 8:45 PM

I just buried the track and ties deep in old ballast, sand & Weeds!

Painted the rails old rust color!

It looks bad but the equipment runs well with no derailments!

BOB H - Clarion, PA

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • 87 posts
Posted by JohnB. on Saturday, June 8, 2013 7:59 PM

Here's a video that may help give you some ideas.

watch?v=DSUXSRsXsI8

John

  • Member since
    October 2012
  • 52 posts
Building an old spur line.
Posted by Bruce LA on Saturday, June 8, 2013 6:44 PM

I want to build an old spur line where the track is old and dilapidated. I thought I would insert alternating shims under the track so that the train will rock back and forth as it goes down the track. I would also like to distress the track so the rails will look kinked and out of alignment. I'll be running a local at slow speed so I'm not too worried about derailments.

Has anyone done this type of track on their layout? Any tips and suggestions would be appreciated.

Bruce

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