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Layout Options

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  • Member since
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  • From: Vermont
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Posted by ondrek on Monday, October 18, 2004 2:40 PM
my 2cents is what ever you use as a begining layout, keep in mind expansion, many members have instructed you to start with a 4x8 to learn on and then latter to build a larger layout. my idea is start with that 4x8, but leave possibilities for expansion so if you decide latter that the 4x8 isnt enough anymore, you dont have to scrap the work you did but just add to it.

Kevin
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, October 17, 2004 11:15 PM
If you like swicthing instead of 'round and 'rounds, a point to point can be foremed with a 2x16 layout. hope this helps.
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Posted by Jetrock on Thursday, September 23, 2004 4:10 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by tsjohnson26

So what it sounds like is that the wise think to do is do the layout in modules....makes sense now. How would you set up the bench work? L brakets on the wall?


That's what I use, but I'm putting it in the garage where the wife doesn't mind if I put holes in the wall. You might try building a single module first--to give you a taste of model railroading--then decide when to put it. Some folks who want to build modular but don't want to knock holes in the wall get short bookshelves or other furniture of matching heights to set their modules on. Such shelving can also provide a place to store your model railroad supplies.
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Posted by ClinchValleySD40 on Wednesday, September 22, 2004 2:01 PM
Ya'll are making it pretty complicated. Try Kalmbach's new book about building a model railroad for $500. Then if you find you like model railroading, expand from there.
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, September 22, 2004 10:25 AM
i'm new to this hobby also, but after thinking about the layout which is in a 12x14 room that i had to pay a premium price for a 4x8 corner of from my wife, it is her crafts and sewing room, am building the lay out on a 4x8 platform 1x3 pine and 1x4" mdf covered with 2"foam board the frame leg is built from pine with long appliance rollers underneath and a track with rollers mounted onthe wall on the other end so the layout can be rolled out 18" to access three sides it works smoothly on the carpet and locks into place when against the wall so i can construct a shelf unit and leave the main 4x8 layout without using a helix, i"m building switchbacks on tall tressels simalar to the tressalls at Georgetown to Silverton Colorado. my workbench is a modified computer desk with casters that rolls under the layout when not in use. hope this might help with figureing how to use a layout in tight spaces.
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, September 21, 2004 7:24 PM
So what it sounds like is that the wise think to do is do the layout in modules....makes sense now. How would you set up the bench work? L brakets on the wall?

Tom
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  • From: Midtown Sacramento
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Posted by Jetrock on Tuesday, September 21, 2004 7:17 PM
You've got the idea right off, tsjohnson. Modular or sectional layouts are built in pieces. The sizes can vary but a common approach is called a "domino" layout, based on 2x4 foot rectangles.

Modular layouts are designed to be moved around and connected to each other--many clubs are modular clubs, each member builds one or more individual modules to a common set of standards so that each member can work on their module/modules at home, taking up a minimum of space, and then bringing them together for special events and attaching them to form a big layout. They are standardized so, ideally, any module can connect to any other module. This can mean more flexibility in arranging modules but can be a real limitation in designing a layout for a single person.

Sectional railroads are based on the same idea, but generally instead of having a common set of standards, a sectional layout is designed to be set up in a particular fashion--like a sectional living room set.

An advantage to these sorts of layouts is portability. Since Americans move around a lot, a disadvantage to the traditional fill-the-room layout is that you practically have to cut it into pieces with a Sawzall to dismantle it. Even a 4x8 has this limitation unless it's in a garage, since you have to tilt it sideways to get it out the door, which can be rough on scenery and structures. With a sectional or modules you just unbolt the modules, carry them out and set them up in your new digs.
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, September 21, 2004 1:40 PM
Like I said, I am new to this...what are modular sections...small sections at a time...3 foot sections, maybe? I took some doing but I convinced my wife to let me have the room....for now ; )
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  • From: North Central Illinois
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Posted by CBQ_Guy on Tuesday, September 21, 2004 1:21 PM
Tom,

A lot of people in the hobby would give a lot to have an entire room with the space you have to build the layout. Just don't try to go nuts and spend a lot of money up front and then go nuts trying to fill it all right away.

Off the top of my head I would suggest maybe considering building modular sections in your situation. I'm thinking along the lines of say, you could build a town section on your workbench to practice your newly learned techniques as you go along. If you don't like it you can easily redo just that on section. Once you complete it to your liking you can then attach it to the sub-benchwork. This is how I think I might approach the situation if I were in your situation.

Just remember to HAVE FUN!
"Paul [Kossart] - The CB&Q Guy" [In Illinois] ~ Modeling the CB&Q and its fictional 'Illiniwek River-Subdivision-Branch Line' in the 1960's. ~
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, September 20, 2004 11:59 AM
From what I have been reading and talking with people I have decided to clean out my spare room and dedicate it totally to my trains. I am thinking of building off of the walls about 2 - 2 1/2 '. I have the whole room which is 14X13 so there is a lot of room for expansion. Thanks for all the input

Tom
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  • From: Northern CA Bay Area
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Posted by cuyama on Monday, September 20, 2004 10:08 AM
You've already received some good advice about potentially building something smaller to gain experience. If this is a section that can be incorporated into a larger layout later, so much the better.

Depending on your preferred scale and available space, there are probably a number of alternatives to the 4X8 that use the space more efficiently. That is, more layout in the same footprint and better access. There's a short article on HO 4X8 alternatives on my website.

Good luck and have fun!

Byron

QUOTE: Originally posted by tsjohnson26

I was wondering what kind of layout would you suggest for a beginner, a 4 x 8 or smaller more accessible pieces.
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, September 18, 2004 5:06 PM
I am in the process of building my third layout - the first 2 were pretty much disasters of over-ambition and general poor planning.
I am building in N scale (all 3) and salvaged all the structures from the second layout - there is a 10 year laps between the two.
My first suggestion is to make sure you have access to the entire layout. This means as has been mentioned above, don't push a 4x8 up against a corner.
Second make sure that the trains will run. Take all the time in the world to lay out your track and don't cut corners - this includes things like not mixing track & rail joiners from various mfgrs., mixing different radius track in a single curve, "fudging the last couple sections of track to compinsate for not getting it straight in the first place.
Then run the trains around for a while to make sure that the logic of yout layout actually works for your enjoyment.
My current layout is being built on a 6' x 30" office depot folding table, and this is working well, as I can reach every point on the layout without creating an "un-natural disaster" knocking things over when I need to clean track or nudge an engine, etc.

Above all, ENJOY! ! ! !

Lannisl
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Posted by BRJN on Friday, September 17, 2004 10:52 PM
If you have a whole room to use, get a 4x8 table. If you only have part of a room, try some 2x6 or maybe 2.5x8 shelves. (Make sure you can actually maneuver your shelf through the door and into the room!) This assumes HO scale.

Another thread suggested buying an N scale trainset and a flat hollow door, tack the track onto the door. If you decide you don't like N scale, you have only spent about $50 and can resell the trainset and door separately for some portion of your money back.

I have a 2x6 board and some track (a switching layout) and enough rolling stock to play with it, also 4 industry kits. This took me about a year to buy, one $20 bill at a time. I still need to build it but reading about RR stuff is free in the meantime. If I don't like what I have, I can (within limits of space) try something else and go on.

Don't believe that once you start with something, you are stuck with it forever. Change boring things based on what sounds like it would be fun to do.
Modeling 1900 (more or less)
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, September 17, 2004 1:08 PM
Visit the Atlas site,they have some suggestion for layout (plan)
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Posted by ndbprr on Friday, September 17, 2004 8:35 AM
I'd suggest a couple of things:
1. Build anything small for the experience of knowing what causes problems and to develop some skill
2.Buy a book of plans and see what features you like in a layout
3. Visit as many model railroads as you can for inspiration and to ask questions.

Any good hobby shop will help you with all three.
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Posted by Jetrock on Friday, September 17, 2004 4:00 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by tsjohnson26

I was thinking of HO. I have 2 full lengths of walls, so what it sounds like you are saying is some sort of shelf set up? Is that correct?


Indeed. One hassle of 4x8 foot layouts is that they generally have to be in the center of a room, or in the middle of a wall, to provide sufficient acces to all sides. That is a very inefficient use of space. If you put a 4x8 in the corner, your derailments and modifications will all end up being in that corner...

A shelf layout, on the other hand, provides ease of access and less impact on the room--by mounting a shelf layout at 4' height or so, you can still utilize space below the layout (or above about the 6' height line) for storage, living space or other uses. If you like continuous running, you can put a return loop on either end of the layout, to create what is known as a "folded dog bone." Shelf layouts put the visual emphasis on the long, straight lengths of track, rather than the curves on the end--and another plus of an L-shaped plan is that trains look best on curves when viewed from INSIDE the curve, rather than outside.

If you can manage an around-the-room bookshelf plan (with a lift-out or swing-out section for the door) you can still use the room as a room (the layout will only need to be 1-2 feet deep on each wall, with access to space above and below) plus you can have much broader curves in each corner than are possible on a "table" style layout, without a bunch of gopher-hole-type access panels.

But, to start with--try building a basic 4x8 or a smaller shelf layout. This will give you a taste of what can be done, and, frankly, whether you'll like it enough to want to create your own full-sized model railroad. A plus of building a small shelf layout (something on the order of 1x6 or 1x8 feet) is that they're very simple and cheap (cheaper even than that 4x8) and can be integrated very easily into an around-the-room or L-shaped layout.

My current home project is a layout that will reach about 2/3 of the way around an 8x18 garage, started as a six-foot shelf layout. It's nice being able to create each section individually and then tie them together into an integrated whole, rather than starting a huge project and feeling like no single part of it will ever be done!
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 16, 2004 12:50 PM
To get started, a 4x8 is OK but you will get bored with it fairly quickly. My recommendation would be to start your 4x8 and start reading model railroad magazines, layout design manuals, and whatever else you can get your hands on. Most local hobby shops (LHS) have a good selection of material. When I was in Seattle this summer for the NMRA National convention, I visited a fellow who did just what you are suggesting. I think his was a 5x9 (ping-pong table size) with scenery, DCC, and plenty of scenic work. He had built it as a learning experiment and had some tracks leading to the edges to expand it into a garage size layout.
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Posted by cwclark on Thursday, September 16, 2004 9:22 AM
try and build a layout in as much room as you can build it in...to learn on a 4X8 is good but once you got it down, it will become boring real fast....if you play your cards right and plan the layout, it will be a lot more fun to operate when you're done...try to get as many books as possible on layout design, benchwork, wiring, and scenery techniques...and then build it...once you've laid your first piece of track and a turnout here and there it gets easier and easier...don't be afraid to make mistakes because the worst that can happen is that you take some of it up and start the section over again...I wish i had a nickel for all the mistakes I've made learning the hobby, i'd be rich by now...but that's how you learn...mistakes make better modelers out of all of us that do this on a regular basis...Chuck[:D]

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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 16, 2004 9:01 AM
I was thinking of HO. I have 2 full lengths of walls, so what it sounds like you are saying is some sort of shelf set up? Is that correct?
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Posted by Jetrock on Thursday, September 16, 2004 8:55 AM
A lot depends on the scale that you want to use. If you want to go with N Scale, a layout smaller than 4x8 is certainly feasible, but you can have quite a layout in that space. If you go HO, then 4x8 is a common standard but there are plenty of other options than 4x8 feet that make better use of the space, like an L-shaped against-the-wall layout measuring a total of 8x10 feet (two 2x8 pieces.)

If you want to model S or O, well, you'll need more space than a 4x8....
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Layout Options
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 16, 2004 8:33 AM
I am new to the hobby. My late grandfather was into model trains when I was younger and it intrigued me. I would like to get into the hobby. I have cruised the forums and seen some very cool looking layouts.
I was wondering what kind of layout would you suggest for a beginner, a 4 x 8 or smaller more accessible pieces.

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