Here I am using plaster cloth but it's medical grade I bought in bulk, I like the thin, long strips.
Finished with the plaster cloth then I used this:
I spritzed the plaster cloth and used DAP plaster to cover and seams in the cloth. I used trowels and my finger.
Mine temporarily in place.
So what to you think? It'll take a few days to dry then I can paint it. But first I need to make some rocks out of Lightweight Hydrocal and keep bare spots labeled as to which rock goes where so they'll adhere well to the plaster and not paint.
What do ya'll think? My first mountain and some wanted photos as I progressed so here they are.
Paul
Very nice; I look forward to seeing your mountain with its clothes on!
Is yours a mining themed layout, or do you have other industries planned?
Stu
Streamlined steam, oh, what a dream!!
Rastafarr Very nice; I look forward to seeing your mountain with its clothes on! Is yours a mining themed layout, or do you have other industries planned? Stu
Thank you Stu. It's total newbie freelance. I have the mine, a coal conveyor for coal drop off and the Salida coal company on a siding next to it for people buying coal.
Then, I have the Walthers grain elevator and the Walthers Sunrise Feed Mill for people wanting to buy grain, I also have a water tower, for the town's drinking water, a townhouse, two houses, a gas station, and the Atlas Maywood train station which my wife INSISTED I buy! LOL!
All this on a 4 x 8 and I'm making it work too. Plus a bridge with a river below.
I'll keep posting photos when I have more major developments, I promised Rich and I want to deliver.
Wait a minute!
Is this the same Paul_in_GA who couldn't think in 3-dimensional terms?
Is this the same Paul_in_GA who couldn't lay a couple of pieces of flex track?
Is this the same Paul_in_GA who had no idea how to construct a mountain?
Is this the same Paul_in_GA who was gonna quit the hobby last weekend?
Kudos to the new Paul_in_GA.
Whatever happened to the old Paul_in_GA?
Rich
Alton Junction
richhotrain Wait a minute! Is this the same Paul_in_GA who couldn't think in 3-dimensional terms? Is this the same Paul_in_GA who couldn't lay a couple of pieces of flex track? Is this the same Paul_in_GA who had no idea how to construct a mountain? Is this the same Paul_in_GA who was gonna quit the hobby last weekend? Kudos to the new Paul_in_GA. Whatever happened to the old Paul_in_GA? Rich
I guess I just "did it". I had some experience in sculpting as I used to carve wood and sculpt clay so when I started the creative juices really started flowing.
Now that I have more confidence Rich, it kinda builds upon itself.
Thanks for the kind words.
Best regards,
As rastafarr said, now we are really looking forward to photos of the landscaped mountain.
richhotrain As rastafarr said, now we are really looking forward to photos of the landscaped mountain. Rich
Gonna be a little while. Gotta make rocks, mark their locations like Pelle does, paint the mountain, glue on rocks, fill in gaps around rocks, color the rocks, add ground cover, talus, and etc. to it. I'll post photos as I go.
This is fun.
With two functional industries and the seeds of passenger service, this is sounding more and more intriguing. I'll be watching this one for sure.
Way to go Paul, looks great.
Now did you pull the crumpled up news paper out of the mountain ? or will you wait for a loco to "Burp" or a hot box on a car to set it unfire in there.? Lol
Johnboy out...........................
from Saskatchewan, in the Great White North..
We have met the enemy, and he is us............ (Pogo)
Rastafarr With two functional industries and the seeds of passenger service, this is sounding more and more intriguing. I'll be watching this one for sure. Stu
Thanks Stu, but ya gotta remember I'm a rank new guy. I'm just winging it. I still have to learn how to make grade crossings, roads, cut foam under existing track for a bridge over a river, pour water stuff, figure out how to install switch throws correctly.
But when I set my mind to something I ask questions and look in my books and basically research the heck out of it before doing it. I want to try to get it right and if I don't then I learn but I have noticed that if I ponder something for a little while I can get it right.
I aspire to Pelle's stuff, now THAT guy is amazing! There's skill and then there's talent, he has both. And he only started in the 1990's!
I take his books along with Jeff Wilson's and try to emulate what they do. I practice on scrap first then try my hand at what needs to be done.
I came close to quitting out of frustration but now as I move along and tackle ONE thing at a time I feel I can finish it.
My original problem was I had become so overwhelmed with the AMOUNT of things you have to do. Everything from building structures, to weathering, there's a million hobbies in one here. Also, all the terms and I'm still trying to get my locos down. I can tell you any plane in the sky as I spent my life in aviation. All I gotta do is look at it and tell you just about every detail about it.
Most guys here can tell not only the locos but the road names, and what year they were built! Amazing.
That's what I now aspire to.
last mountain & eastern hogger Way to go Paul, looks great. Now did you pull the crumpled up news paper out of the mountain ? or will you wait for a loco to "Burp" or a hot box on a car to set it unfire in there.? Lol Johnboy out...........................
Thanks Johnboy but there's a hydrocal tunnel in there so I don't think there's any chance of a fire.
Besides, ALL my locos and rolling stock carry Halon bottles like the jets I used to work on.
Paul_in_GABut when I set my mind to something I ask questions and look in my books and basically research the heck out of it before doing it. I want to try to get it right and if I don't then I learn but I have noticed that if I ponder something for a little while I can get it right.
That tends to be my MO, especially for scenery. I am least comfortable with scenery than any other aspect of the hobby. But when I find that I am suffering from analysis paralysis, I just jump in and do it. The worst that can happen is having to redo it.
The shape of your hill is fine. If you dont like the results of the finished hill, dont tear it out. Just layer over it with the next attempt. That should allay any fears of not getting it right the first time. I will wager that your attempt at rocks and ground cover will surprise yourself.
And Dont quit. The learning curve is too much fun.
EndCabSwitcher Paul_in_GABut when I set my mind to something I ask questions and look in my books and basically research the heck out of it before doing it. I want to try to get it right and if I don't then I learn but I have noticed that if I ponder something for a little while I can get it right. That tends to be my MO, especially for scenery. I am least comfortable with scenery than any other aspect of the hobby. But when I find that I am suffering from analysis paralysis, I just jump in and do it. The worst that can happen is having to redo it. The shape of your hill is fine. If you dont like the results of the finished hill, dont tear it out. Just layer over it with the next attempt. That should allay any fears of not getting it right the first time. I will wager that your attempt at rocks and ground cover will surprise yourself. And Dont quit. The learning curve is too much fun.
Thanks. Rocks and ground cover will not be a problem because my son and I built the W/S Learning Kit. It taught us a lot about how to just that and it's coming along nicely. I like scenery, it's soothing. What makes me nervous is weathering and designing roads, sidewalks, and parking lots.
Yup, I'm a Pelle fan myself. The level of realism in his layouts is inspiring, particularly for someone interested in modeling the modern era.
Overwhelmed? It's easy to be. There is such a variety of activities that fall under the umbrella of Model Railroading that it's hard to know where to start. The best advice I can give (and I think people will back me up on this) is don't sweat it. Have fun. Try one aspect of the hobby, give it a whirl, and when it gets frustrating or (god forbid) boring, put it down and try something else.
just make sure you're having FUN!!
Paul,
I really like how your project is coming along, my first attempt at a mountain turned out ok just never finished it. I bought my River Mining kit at my local Hobby Shop for $36.00. Fit's together well, hardest thing for me is painting or using a black sharpie marker on the window frames.
Daniel.
Dan The Man Paul, I really like how your project is coming along, my first attempt at a mountain turned out ok just never finished it. I bought my River Mining kit at my local Hobby Shop for $36.00. Fit's together well, hardest thing for me is painting or using a black sharpie marker on the window frames. Daniel.
Thanks Daniel. I have to finish weathering the windows in my mining company. I went the Sharpie route and it looked great but on touching up I was in a rush and didn't mask so I got some silver overspray on some windows. So I saw someone else's kit and how they blackened the windows as in real life with coal dust and did the same with Polly Scale Grimy Black and now it looks excellent! I still have to airbrush the two black bases because brushing looks horrible. Then I need to weather the entire thing.
As for the mountain, it was a LOT of fun. I still have to wait for it to totally dry then sand it. Using DAP patching plaster REALLY helped with the plaster cloth seams. It was more of art than anything else. It got the old creative juices flowing. I LOVED building it! This hobby gets more and more satisfying as I complete tasks that I thought I wouldn't be able to.
Hope to see photos of your layout sometime soon.
Rastafarr Yup, I'm a Pelle fan myself. The level of realism in his layouts is inspiring, particularly for someone interested in modeling the modern era. Overwhelmed? It's easy to be. There is such a variety of activities that fall under the umbrella of Model Railroading that it's hard to know where to start. The best advice I can give (and I think people will back me up on this) is don't sweat it. Have fun. Try one aspect of the hobby, give it a whirl, and when it gets frustrating or (god forbid) boring, put it down and try something else. just make sure you're having FUN!! Stu
Hi Stu,
Pelle makes it look easy but it ain't!
Yup, overwhelmed but I take baby steps now. As I progress it gets MORE fun. I'm really getting into it.
Paul, Looks great so far. I'm in the same boat as you as far as doing the scenery. I read a lot and then try out the various methods. Each mountain or set of rocks turns out better than the previous one. I still haven't done any texturing or trees.
One question about your New River Mine kit. Is there a reason why you put the single support leg next to the outside track?
Keep posting pictures!
Roger
My Layout Pics
RogerThat Paul, Looks great so far. I'm in the same boat as you as far as doing the scenery. I read a lot and then try out the various methods. Each mountain or set of rocks turns out better than the previous one. I still haven't done any texturing or trees. One question about your New River Mine kit. Is there a reason why you put the single support leg next to the outside track? Keep posting pictures! Roger
Hi Roger,
Um, it showed it that way in the instructions unless I did it wrong.
Is it now supposed to go that way? There was only one leg in the kit too so I looked at the photo on the box and the instructions and I thought it went that way. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Paul, Here is a picture of mine.
Notice that the single leg goes on the inside front corner.
RogerThat Paul, Here is a picture of mine. Notice that the single leg goes on the inside front corner.
Yup, mine is the same way. I must have had it backward when I took the photo. I haven't glued the bottom on yet because I have to airbrush it black. I tried to brush paint the smaller one and with one coat it looks horrible so I'm gonna spray them both with an airbrush. Then I can glue the bottom on and then glue the large roof pieces on too.
When I set mine up like your the tipples will make the coal slide towards the cars as I'm sure yours is the same way. I followed the instruction very carefully.
Thanks for pointing this out as I very well COULD have glued it incorrectly.
Have fun with your trains
vsmithPictures 1and 7, Is it just me or is the right hand tunnel portal walls almost on top of the track? Might want to test your clearance there. Or is just my bad eyesight.
The track is 2 1/2" apart. That is a foam portal I cut out with a hot wire tool using the W/S portal as a template. I then put the real portal against the foam one and used an NMRA gauge and checked clearance on both sides of both portals and it was fine. Then I ran all my trains including the longest rolling stock with side by side locos running each on first one track then the other and they cleared just fine. I made sure I tested it a dozen times before I commited to the placement of the foam.
So it may look tight and when the longest boxcar comes through it clears but by 1/8 of an inch. It was the best I could do. The tunnel itself is made from W/S tunnel forms and could probably hold three tracks.
If I really had to I could shape the portal sides with a knife and recolor but I doubt I'll have to do that.
Thanks for looking and thanks for your comments.
Roger, know what else I just noticed? I have the track coming in from the opposite end your's does. So my ladder will be right smack in all the action.
My track comes IN to where the ladder is on the left side of your picture. Think this will be a problem?
Paul_in_GA vsmithPictures 1and 7, Is it just me or is the right hand tunnel portal walls almost on top of the track? Might want to test your clearance there. Or is just my bad eyesight. The track is 2 1/2" apart. That is a foam portal I cut out with a hot wire tool using the W/S portal as a template. I then put the real portal against the foam one and used an NMRA gauge and checked clearance on both sides of both portals and it was fine. Then I ran all my trains including the longest rolling stock with side by side locos running each on first one track then the other and they cleared just fine. I made sure I tested it a dozen times before I commited to the placement of the foam. So it may look tight and when the longest boxcar comes through it clears but by 1/8 of an inch. It was the best I could do. The tunnel itself is made from W/S tunnel forms and could probably hold three tracks. If I really had to I could shape the portal sides with a knife and recolor but I doubt I'll have to do that. Thanks for looking and thanks for your comments. Paul
That portal clearance still looks too tight. Have you actually checked it with the casting in place? The additional thickness of the portal will encroach on the "Curved" track. I would just hate to see some of your long equipment end up scraping the inside. Don't know if you will run passenger , autoracks or doublestacks but they don't look like they will clear.
Looks great so far, nice dry fit of the structure. What method do you plan to use for the rock casting, carving etc?
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
The ladder sits to the side of the track. I don't think it matters which end the tracks come in to the tipple.
bogp40 Paul_in_GA vsmithPictures 1and 7, Is it just me or is the right hand tunnel portal walls almost on top of the track? Might want to test your clearance there. Or is just my bad eyesight. The track is 2 1/2" apart. That is a foam portal I cut out with a hot wire tool using the W/S portal as a template. I then put the real portal against the foam one and used an NMRA gauge and checked clearance on both sides of both portals and it was fine. Then I ran all my trains including the longest rolling stock with side by side locos running each on first one track then the other and they cleared just fine. I made sure I tested it a dozen times before I commited to the placement of the foam. So it may look tight and when the longest boxcar comes through it clears but by 1/8 of an inch. It was the best I could do. The tunnel itself is made from W/S tunnel forms and could probably hold three tracks. If I really had to I could shape the portal sides with a knife and recolor but I doubt I'll have to do that. Thanks for looking and thanks for your comments. Paul That portal clearance still looks too tight. Have you actually checked it with the casting in place? The additional thickness of the portal will encroach on the "Curved" track. I would just hate to see some of your long equipment end up scraping the inside. Don't know if you will run passenger , autoracks or doublestacks but they don't look like they will clear. Looks great so far, nice dry fit of the structure. What method do you plan to use for the rock casting, carving etc?
Yup, I checked it again last night. All trains clear, no problem. Checked it wil casting in place. It's actually a tad wider than the foam template. I won't be running long passenger cars, just not enough radii.
Rocks are already cast in a lot of W/S molds using hydrocal. All I gotta do now is place them when they're fully cured.
In the meantime I'm having the most difficult time using chalks to get mortar in bricks on a townhouse. Was frustrated so I washed it all off. Next I might try a real diluted wash of white.
Happy to hear you have plenty of clearance on that "optical illusion". I had figured that you were doing the WS molds. If some of the dried castings just won't fit the convex contours, you can place a partially dried filled mold directly on the hill and press/ force to shape the exact contour. Even though the backside of the poured Hydrocal in the mold should be wet enough, i will just butter on a touch of fresh mixed plaster prior to placement. Even if some of this oozes out from the mold, it can be removed or cut/ shapeded later. Hold the mold for a few minutes (seems like forever sometimes) and you can usually feel the heat of the plater as it is setting. I will leave the mold on sometimes for well over an hour, then carefully peel off. If some major rock detail stays in to mold, pop it out and glue it on later after the casting has dried, Breaking, cutting and nipping the castings helps to position to gain the look of the desired rock cuts, blasts or natural stratta.
Note: I have always checked the look of individual castings to get to know the type, shape stratta orientation etc to at least have the various castings look a bit more uniform for the final scene. You don't want a look of a "Patchwork" quilt of rocks that don't belong together on the same mountain side.
bogp40 Happy to hear you have plenty of clearance on that "optical illusion". I had figured that you were doing the WS molds. If some of the dried castings just won't fit the convex contours, you can place a partially dried filled mold directly on the hill and press/ force to shape the exact contour. Even though the backside of the poured Hydrocal in the mold should be wet enough, i will just butter on a touch of fresh mixed plaster prior to placement. Even if some of this oozes out from the mold, it can be removed or cut/ shapeded later. Hold the mold for a few minutes (seems like forever sometimes) and you can usually feel the heat of the plater as it is setting. I will leave the mold on sometimes for well over an hour, then carefully peel off. If some major rock detail stays in to mold, pop it out and glue it on later after the casting has dried, Breaking, cutting and nipping the castings helps to position to gain the look of the desired rock cuts, blasts or natural stratta. Note: I have always checked the look of individual castings to get to know the type, shape stratta orientation etc to at least have the various castings look a bit more uniform for the final scene. You don't want a look of a "Patchwork" quilt of rocks that don't belong together on the same mountain side.
Bob, that's a great way to secure rocks, however, mine are already cast. So I'll have to secure them with hydrocal and the I plan on using DaP patching plaster to fill in the gaps.
I have a LOT to do.
But right now I'm getting frustrated with getting chalks to be mortar in bricks. I don't really want to use a wash as that's a pain too but I might have to. Or I can just leave it with the chalks and age it even more.
Hey, I see your from Mass. I was born in the city of Boston, grew up in East Boston & Winthrop. My uncle lives in Centerville.
I don't miss the weather but I miss the ocean but the weahter here in GA is nice. STILL in the 70's! My grass is still green! We still have flowers. I am beginning to think this is the year without a winter!
Thanks for your advice. I may try your method when I add more rocks to another little mound I need to make on the other corner.
Hay sorry for not getting back, been away from the form for awhile. Looks like you River Mining building is open for business, your project turned out good. I like the dried brush on brown, makes the building look older.
I currently have have a HO scale 8' x 10' layout, double track, small yard and five Industries spurs. But I'm not happy with it, from having several problems. I decided to re-design the layout, make it 10' 7" x 12' 1", and just about everything I want to include on the layout. Unlike my past layouts, this next one will have everything drawn out on paper, each section, wiring, etc. All the wood and materials used on my current layout will be reused. I'll make a new page and post my progress, when I get further into to.