Switch Machine

[cwclark]

Another thing you can do is mount the tortoise to a scrap piece of hardboard cut 3" X 6" (it's about 1/4" thick) also cut a 1/2" hole cut in it so the spring rod can move from side to side thru the hardboard..(there is a template that comes with the tortoise that you can use to mark the holes on the hardboard)... that way you can hold the machine in place and run some sheetrock screws into the hardboard from the top of the layout instead of trying to line it up and mount it from the bottom...trying to mount one from the bottom is almost impossible...the piano wire thing is good too..i use .039 spring steel in place of the rod that comes with the tortoise ..it makes all the difference in the world when the spring is more rigid than the tortoise spring rod... Chuck[:D]

[SteelMonsters]

The thicker wire does help a lot for short to moderate switch distances. Sometimes long distances are needed or in other cases when you need more force at the points. you can get a brass or copper tube that the wire fits into to increase the amount of force. With that method, distances of 6" or more are possible.

If you setup is ridgid enough, then it will stall out the Tortise before it's travel limits. This Won't cause problems with the switch machine.

[Sperandeo]

I would drill a hole directly under the center of the switch rod (throw bar). The Tortoise has plenty of throw to operate at a depth of 2-1/2", but not with the small-diameter wire that comes with it. Substitute .047" music wire (steel wire available at hobby shops and hardware stores) and you should be okay.

Good luck,

Andy

[rmbarry]

I am trying to mount a Tortise switch machine underneath 1/2" plywood and two inches of foam. How do I build a throw mechanism so the switch machince can control the switch? Do I have the lever connect beneath the switch throw or the side throw?