wsdimenna Just as a note Silfor is a form of grass tufts with a plastic backing and is not for static grass gun. The static grass is made either by Heki or Noch.
Just as a note Silfor is a form of grass tufts with a plastic backing and is not for static grass gun. The static grass is made either by Heki or Noch.
Silflor sells grass for static guns as well as the product mentioned above. The current catalog lists lots of choices.
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
Just as a note Silfor is a form of grass tufts with a plastic backing and is not for static grass gun. The static grass is made either by Heki or Noch. Last tiime I looked they did not carry silfor static grass, but that may have changed
model in O. the Western NY and Ontario Railroad
You'll most likely have to order direct from Scenic Express. I think they are the exclusive Silflor dealer in the US. Their lines aren't carried by most hobby shops etc..The turn time is good and they are a quality outfit.
They do a lot of train shows, but you can buy it direct:
http://www.sceneryexpress.com/departments.asp?dept=1032
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
Thanks. My LHS only has WS for static grass. I'll take a trip to another LHS this week and see if they've got the Scenic Express stuff.
Oddly, Walthers doesn't list any of the longer Scenic Express grasses, just the short stuff.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Mr. B.
I presume that you were using WS static grass??? WS is pretty short, and in my experience, looks similar to what you discribe. Contact Scenic Express and order some Silflor and Noch Grasses in 4-6mm lengths. They should give you more of the effect you are seeking..
OK, I've spent a weekend playing with static grass. Generally, I think I've got the technique down. The grass goes on evenly, doesn't get too far beyond where I want, and adheres to the glue. Once the glue is dry, I can vacuum up the excess and the rest stays in place.
But, it doesn't have that "amber waves of grain" effect I was looking for. The grass is nice and soft, with a good "pile," to use a carpet term, but it's not straight. The grass seems to be curly, pretty much the way it looks in the Woodland Scenics bottle.
Is this a function of the length of the grass, or the brand of grass? Or, am I doing something wrong? I know the applicator is working, because it gives me a great big spark if I get it too close to the pin.
Thanks, Bill. I've never seen that product. Here's a link to the photo page:
http://www.truescene.com/true_scene%E2%84%A2_photos#Pause
I think it does a very nice job of modeling earth, particularly the plowed field scene.
Has anyone else used this product?
KIS
Grass gun with clip attached to heavy pin. Static grass of length desired. a base of wet fusionfiber.
insert heavy pin attached to clip, turn on grass gun loaded with grass.
allow to dry.
Bill D
disclaimer: we manufacture fusionfiber.
other more detailed photos available. These are done on portal modules and moved from show to show, etc.
Here is some work I've done this week.
This was made using a mixture of Silflor 4mm and 6mm Summer and Autumn grasses.
The first photo shows different blends of the summer and autumn grasses on either side of the mainline, as well as different paint base colors. The base color to the left is light beige, while the color on the right is dark brown.
I typically use some of their pre-made tufts, but I haven't gotten too far into that layer of detail on this section, yet, and this module has to go into the trailer today for the trip to the convention. I'll finish this one off with clusters of low shrubs and such when we get back and I have more time to work on it.
-Fritz Milhaupt, Publications Editor, Pere Marquette Historical Society, Inc.http://www.pmhistsoc.org
WS grass is 2mm.
And very, very shiny.
I strongly recommend ordering some Heki or other 4mm (and 6mm, since you're doing HO) grasses.
The WS grass works better as filler for other stuff rather just on it's own.It's really shiny.
M.C. Fujiwara
My YouTube Channel (How-to's, Layout progress videos)
Silicon Valley Free-moN
Thanks for all the inputs. My LHS only has Woodland Scenics static grass, so I picked up a couple of different cannisters of that. WS doesn't indicate a size on their bottles. Does anyone know how big their grass is?
One important thing to remember: 2mm grass works out to being nearly 7" high in HO scale, and over 12.5" in N scale.
When I apply static grass to an HO scale field, I use at least two colors and try to use at least two lengths. Having the lengths and the color all the same gives a putting green or "Disneyland" landscaping effect that isn't what I'm looking for.
I use latex or acrylic paint as the underlying color and adhesive. The color you use will strongly affect how the grass looks. Varying the base color can enhance the effect.
I generally keep three colors of Silflor grass and the 4mm and 6mm lengths on hand for making fields. I plan to make a major shopping stop at the Scenic Express booth during this year's National Train Show.
Mr. B,
Welcome to the world of static grass!! Here is a quick how to:
First, the materials used. To apply the grass you will need the following:
Static Grass Applicator
Static Grass
50/50 glue mix
small pins or nails
box to capture excess
small vacuum for clean up
Static Grass Applicator: I went the "build it yourself" route and can now advise you on how not to build a static grass gun known as the "grassinator". Even though I made some mistakes, the device was very easy to build and works great.
Static Grass: Noch, Silflor and Woodland Scenics sell static grass designed for the static applicator. The key feature of these grasses is length (2 mm, 4 mm, 6 mm and 6.5 mm) and color (ranging from bright green to summer yellow). The Silflor is some of the nicest, but also the most expensive. The grass comes in bottles or bags and is loaded into the bowl on the grassinator for application. Scenic Express carries the full line of static grasses from a variety of Manufacturers.
Application of the Grass:
In addition to the above items, you will need a glue mix, some nails or pins, and a few flat paper box lids (or other suitable containers).
Decide where you are going to grass and carefully mask off other areas that you don't want grass particles. I found the particles migrate quite a distance from the application area. You can vacuum up the particles but it is better to not have to do this step. Think Barbershop floor after a long day...
Vacuum the area to remove any dust or stray particles. Later, when we vacuum up the excess grass fibers, we can get a clean pile of grass fibers to re-use if the area is free of debris. At the price of some of the grasses, you will want to collect and re-use.
Load the applicator in a box or container to capture the excess spilled grass generated by this step.
Stick pins into the surface of the area to be "grassed" spaced about every 2 to 3 inches apart. Try to put these to the side of the area, along the edges.
Paint the area with glue, let it soak for a moment, then reapply the glue mixture. Make sure that the pins are in contact with the glue as the wet glue completes the electrical path.
Attach the negative clip to the first pin in your area to be grassed.
Fire up the applicator and hold it with the screen parallel to the surface to be grassed about 1" above the surface. Shake the applicator and slowly move it back and forth. Grass will fall to the surface and immediately stand up. Very cool. See this video by Joe Fugate:
Keep moving the negative lead to other pins as you slowly fill in the area to be grassed. As you move farther away from the pins, the static charge gets weaker, hence the pin placement every two or three inches.
When you are satisfied with the look and density of the grass, gently pull out the pins. Be careful not to push down or touch the grass as it dries. The pins will pull out chunks of grass if they are not removed before the glue is dry.
When the glue is dry (overnight is best), vacuum up the excess grass. This is best done with a clean vacuum bag so that you can reuse the grass (I have re-used the grass several times, it works well).
You probably seen this shot before:
Enjoy the static grass gun,
Check out the Noch brands of static grass, I just ordered a couple packs of thier 4mm and also one 6mm,
Walthers is one place to check out the Noch landscaping items.
You are so right, the 2 mm looks like a freshly cut lawn, you need to mix and match other landscaping items to make it look rougher to be realistic.
I finished my homemade applicator last week (bug zapper) and tried some Woodland Scenics static grass flock. I just used thinned 50/50 white glue on top of some previously planted fine turf and it worked great. But, man, this stuff is too short. Is it along the lines of 2mm that's offered by others, or is it actually shorter?
Most of the track has plastic ties, so that shouldn´t be a problem, but to be on the safe side (and to prevent the locos from turning green), I´d remove them.
Thanks, guys. I haven't done static grass before, and I was planning on trying it on an unfinished part of my layout first. That way, if it comes out well I'll be happy, but if not it won't bother me to rip it up and try it again.
Next question: Do you leave your locomotives on the layout when you use the applicator? I'd be sure to move them away, but is there a danger of damaging the decoders or other DCC components from static discharge?
MB,
If you haven't viewed it already, there's a short 2-1/2 minute Expert Tips video on How to work with static grass that may be of benefit to you, too.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I like using acrylic paint as the "glue" medium since it does not wick up the grass fibers the way diluted white glues tend to. Both "glues" seem to do a good job holding the grass fibers once dry. However, the white glues and "Scenic Cement" I have used tend to make the grass fibers very stiff to the touch, almost like a bristle brush. On the other hand, the areas I have done using acrylic paint as the glue remain soft and pliable, giving the feel of real grass as well as the look. I assume you haven't applied static grass before so I would recommend that you practice away from the layout until you are sure of your technique. Experiment with both types of "glues", fiber lengths and even applicator to surface heights. All of these variables will have a significant effect on your static grass results.
Hornblower
The answer is - it depends...
I find the short lengths only to be suitable for well-kept areas, like lawn. If you take a close look at areas, where man does not interfere, you´ll find "grass" of various lenghts, sometimes in patches, sometimes just mixed.
In any case, try to avoid a uniform look, which does not exist in Mother Nature.
The above picture shows a former layout of mine. I used a HekiFlor mat, which I carefully stretched and glued to the ground, filling the blank spaces with yellow "grass" (long fibers), using a static grass applicator.
I'm highest bidder! I just won a static grass applicator on eBay. While I wait for the free shipping to do its thing, I'll need to assemble information and then materials, in that order.
What do you use for the base glue? I've heard scenic cement and matte medium. Do you use the matte medium straight from the bottle, or thin it a bit? How thin should it be? Do you thin it with water, or something else?
I've got an HO-scale layout. I don't want a manicured lawn, but I don't want an wheat field, either. I gather that there are several lengths of static grass available. What length works best for you?
Thanks.