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Double Deck Layout Benchwork Standards/Suggestions

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  • Member since
    June 2001
  • From: Holly, MI
  • 1,269 posts
Posted by ClinchValleySD40 on Friday, August 27, 2004 1:24 PM
My two main levels are 40" and 60", seems to work really well.

If you want to see some really beautiful multi deck benchwork, check out Andy Keeney's at http://community.webshots.com/user/hunter48820

I sure wish mine looked that good.
  • Member since
    March 2002
  • From: Elgin, IL
  • 3,677 posts
Posted by orsonroy on Friday, August 27, 2004 9:26 AM
JW,

I've got a three level layout, so I'm not sure how useful my comments will be :-)

First off, 2x6 studs are WAAAYYYY overkill. Unless you've got them already, and they were free, I'd suggest going with something smaller. I finished my basement walls to code with 2x4s and 1/2" drywall, but I've got one false wall that's made with plain old 2x2s tied into the ceiling joists. The 2x2s are more than enough to support little toy trains.

I'm using 10"x12" L shaped metal shelf brackets to hold up most of my layout. They work great, especially considering my benchwork is 2" foam on top of 1/4" plywood. I can't dance on my shelves, but they're more than strong enough for a normal layout. The metal shelf brackets are screwed directly to the studs, and are stronger than any wood bracket. However, many modelers are using wood 1x3s to build multilevel layouts. One of the poineers is Bill Darnaby and his HUGE Maumee Route layout. Do a search in the Trains.com magazine index for many articles Bill's written for MR on building his layout. His layout is 2x4 studwalls with 1x3 L girder supports screwed to the studs, holding up 2" foam shelves glued directly to the L girders (sort of like what you're thinking of building). His layout's been up for about 10 years now, and is still rock-solid.

As for height between decks, that's real subjective. Since I built a corkscrew layout (I hate helixes), there are a few areas with 8" pinchpoints. These are short, however, and I designed them to have nothing but scenery and the mainline through those areas. Most of the decks are between 12"-16" apart, which is about the minimum spacing. I definitely agree with the other posters about making mockups to figure out where you want your heights to be. I'm 6'2", so my three decks are at 36" for the lower level (worked by a chair on rollers), the second level's at about 48" (good walking height), and the upper level is at about 52" (great eye level viewing, with switching worked while standing on a low stool).

Everything in model railroading is a compromise. Some people really hate the shadowbox effect of a multideck layout. While I would prefer a single deck layout, my big preferance is a long mainline with lots of distance between towns. The only way I'd be able to get my four scale mile long mainline built was to either build multiple decks in my 12x25 layout room, or buy a new house and build a 50x80 pole barn for a single level layout. If possible, arrange a visit or three to local multideck layouts, to poke around them to see if you REALLY like what a multilevel has to offer. If you do, start building!

If you'd like to see some pics of my layout, feel free to email me offlist, and I'll email you a bunch!

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • 148 posts
Posted by tutaenui on Friday, August 27, 2004 5:07 AM
Doing a mockup is an excellent suggestion. For me setting the upper level at chin hight and the lower 18" below the under surface of the top deck worked fine. Baseboards are 30" wide. Try to make the upper base board as thin as possible L girder may not be the best here. I found I needed a couple of thin rods to suspend the front edge of the upper deck from the ceiling.(to prevent sag). If possible make the upper deck narrower than the lower.
  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: US
  • 19 posts
Posted by jwwhite on Friday, August 27, 2004 2:48 AM
About the suggestions for the Kalmbach publication: Thanks! I have the first edition, and I don't recall there being much discussion about double-deck benchwork. I'll definitely pick up a copy on your recommandations.

Hey, Kalmbach moderator, are you reading this? [:)]

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 27, 2004 2:03 AM
My suggestion:

Deck heigth and spacing: Mock it up and see how much space looks good to you. I am also building the same style layout. I mocked up two decks at different heights until I found the ones that suited me. I have about 19" between the decks. The top deck is about 59" off the deck. I found that various people of differing sizes had strong opinions about what they could see on the top deck. I adjusted some stuff in light of this. I also made my top deck narrower to keep the view on the bottom more uncluttered. My widths are 24" (bottom deck and 18" top deck (most of the time). There are lots of ways to support the top deck, the book is a good idea...

Guy
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Southeast U.S.A.
  • 851 posts
Posted by rexhea on Friday, August 27, 2004 12:35 AM
[#ditto]

Great book to get going with. Has lots of step by step instructions with pictures and ideas.

REX
Rex "Blue Creek & Warrior Railways" http://www.railimages.com/gallery/rexheacock
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 26, 2004 10:40 PM
I strongly suggest you pick up a copy of the Kalmbach book "How to build Model Railroad Benchwork, 2nd edition". It'll answer all your questions and then some.
  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: US
  • 19 posts
Double Deck Layout Benchwork Standards/Suggestions
Posted by jwwhite on Thursday, August 26, 2004 10:13 PM
I'm planning on building a double-deck, around the wall layout and am looking for information sources/suggestions on the process. Specifically, I'm concerned about the spacing between the roadbed level of the lower deck and the underside of the upper deck. How much distance is "enough"? My lower deck will be approx. 30" inches deep. I'm prepared to make the upper deck shallower if necessary to allow comfortable "reach in" access. I'm a short guy, so I'm not looking for absolute distances from the floor, just the seperation between the upper and lower decks.

Also, what's a reliable way to cantilever the upper deck without requiring aisle-side vertical supports? I'll be using 2X6 studs against the wall, so I'm thinking that if I use 1X3 or 1X4 cantilevers, I should be ok?

Any experiences or suggestions that anyone would like to share?

Thanks.

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