Stupid Newbie Question # 2433 Double Track & Radius

[Anonymous]

Kato makes it very easy to do what you want to do. They offer curves with various radii to make 33 millimeter track centers. These are 381,348,315, 282, 249 and 216. These will make concentric curves with 33 millimeter track centers. I have double track and have used mostly 282 and 315 millimeter radius curves and they work fine even with locomotives with 3 axles trucks and with Beth Gon coal porters. You have to change the drawbar on the locomotive to pull Beth Gon coal porters because they uncoulple on the curves otherwise.

I want to add a third track and had considered using 249 millimeter radius curves on the inside of the 282 millimeter radius curves but have decided that may not good. I will change my layout and instead use 348 millimeter radius curves on the outside of the 315 millimeter radius curves.

The Kato brochure shows two No. 4 turnouts to make a crossover between two tracks with 33 millimeter track centers. I tried that and they are not satisfactory with many derailments. I gave up on those crossovers and instead got the Kato double crossover. That works good with rarely a derailment. I am unhapppy with the No. 4 turnouts anywhere. Their No. 6 turnouts work good but you cannot make crossovers with 33 millimeter track centers with them. I used No. 6 turnouts for my first yard track which makes 49.5 millimeter track centers. I then used No. 4 turnouts in the yard to get 33 millimeter track centers but I have a lot of problems with the No. 4 turnouts.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for all of the replies. Now all I need to do is spend 2x as much $$$ on Track :)

Follow up question. I'm using Woodland Scenics Foam Risers and Grades. Woodland Scenics says that there are just a touch too narrow for double "N" but the way I see it, I can fit double main on it with a smidge to spare. So the question Has anyone done this ? 2) Do I lay out the track first, scribe a line around it, and then lay down the foam ? just like cork roadbed ?

Thanks, Dave

[Anonymous]

You would probably be better to build your inside curve with the Unitrak sections and then build the outside curve by inserting straight sections as needed to get at least the 1.25 spacing.

[nfmisso]

13.75" - 1.25" = 12.5"

13.75" + 1.25" = 15"

[Junctionfan]

I don't know about N so I will give you an HO example and hope that it help.

Our club tries to keep 2 inches in between track since we operate some big stuff we also require at least a 28 inch radius. So the 1st track would be 28 inch radius and the 2nd would be 30 inches. Now because you would be working in N, you have an advantage of scaling down the measurements. I don't know what kind of rollingstock you plan on using but it looks good obviously is you can spare the room to use a fairly large radius. The extra straight piece on the outside track should work but have to say that the inside track would be O.K to use the sectional pieces as it could be a template but it might be easier to use flex track on the outside curves as you can shape the track better for the clean paralell look.

[Anonymous]

Excuse me for being thick. I would like to double track my Main. I'm using Kato Unitrack in "N" so it is sectional not Flex. NMRA tells me psacing should be 1.25" Center to Center, OK. If I'm using 13.75" Radius for my turns, what Radius do I need to build a second track inside of that ? Would adding a small piece of straight in the middle of the outside track give me enough room to use the same radius on the inside track ? Thanks for your patience and answers,

Dave