I've decided that I'm going to edit my earlier posts in this thread as I don't like how I came across. Having written this post in the early part of 2013 and then going back to it and re-reading it, I feel I came across as pretty immature! I have this problem and wish I didn't. Where I feel I got into a disagreement with someone that little or nothing to do with the subject of this thread, I will simply delete that post. This may make the thread seem incongruant and I appologize for this. Be that as it may from this point forward, I hope to do a better job.
NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"
Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association: http://www.nprha.org/
Deleted post.
NP2626 I had hoped to be able to post photos of the project. Is that possible at this website and if so, how do I go about doing so?
I had hoped to be able to post photos of the project. Is that possible at this website and if so, how do I go about doing so?
Easiest way is to upload an image is to use one of the free photo sharing web sites (e.g. http://www.photobucket.com) , grab a link from that website, and insert a link to that picture in your post here.
Two ways of doing it: 1) Click on IMG code (bottom line above) at photobucket, paste code into text window where you want to have the picture
This way, you don't actually see the image until you post the post you have been writing. 2) Instead click on "Direct Link" on photobucket, and then click the "insert media" icon in the forum editor
Paste direct link into popup box, and you see the image right away. Either way, you need a valid URL - starting with http://<servername>/path/filename.jpg. If you use other image sharing services than photobucket, the exact way to grab that URL may vary.
Good luck!
Smile, Stein
I guess I'll have to try doing this. Seems complicated, compaired to other ways to post photos at the other forums I've participated at.
I have just completed a trestle for my Northern Pacific Layout for a deep gulch the line needed to cross. There had been a simple stick bridge for about the last 6-8 years across this part of the layout and I finally decided it was time to build the trestle needed.Although the actual build of the trestle is completed at this time, I thought maybe I could discuss how I went about it. I guess I need to set up an account at Photo Bucket or some such website to make this work and I see what I can do in a bit.
See if the following works for you
As has been said that to upload pictures you must create a host such as PHOTOBUCKET www.photobucket.com It is free. After you create your account you merely click on the upload button and then select the picture you want to upload from your computer.
Now you are ready to post that picture to your thread.
There are two ways to insert the picture. The way I like to do it is to click on the direct link box under the picture on photobucket. This automatically copies the link. Then you go to the thread and there is a bar across the top. One of the icons is green and looks like film. Click on this and a window will open with a box to paste the URL that you got from photobucket.
When you click on insert the picture will show up on the thread wherever your cursor is.
I try to have the cursor placed so that I have space above and below the inserted picture.
The second way is to click on image under your picture on photobucket and paste it in your post.
The first way you see the picture before you post and the second after you post.
It's your choice.
It sounds like a big deal but it is actually simple once you get the hang of it.
Hope this helps
Bob
Don't Ever Give Up
http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/2011/11/posting-picture-at-model-railroad-forum.html
"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein
http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/
Geared Steam, At the 5-6 other forums I have participated in there was no need for a photo-bucket account, you simply uploaded photos from your own computer. I have never needed a hosting middle man before.
Is there a reason that this is the method Model Railroader choose? Something I am overlooking? In fact, i find the Model Railroader Forum to be completely different than the other forums I have participated in. I find I am having to learn another method of navigating/using this forum. There are also features I miss from most other forums, one would be the ability to ignore people who I find obnoxious and/ or irritating.
However, this forum also has unique features interconnected with being a subscriber to Model Railroader Magazine that are absolutely fantastic!
Do you want to post pictures??
You have recieved 3 responses on how to post pictures, all basically describing the same procedure.
Why not forget what you do on other foriums and try what works on this one.
You may be pleasantly surprised.
Forums that allow you to directly upload images and other large files have to have the server capacity and administration to handle that. There's are also some legal issues, like copyright and other more arcane things that also contribute to a decision to not host images.
Given the forum is free and Kalmbach calls the shots, there you go.
I do understand the reluctance to hassle with one more manifestation of computer technology. It was only about six months ago that I finally broke down and set up my ImageShack account. But once you've done that, it's really handy for all kinds of things, not just this one forum.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
I'm going to take care of this, in my own time. I'm on the confuser all day and really would like to be involved in other activities on week nights when I get home from work.
O.K., I have photo up. Need to figure out how to put text in there too. This photo was taken the first time I actually dropped the trestle into it's location on the layout.
NP2626 O.K., I have photo up. Need to figure out how to put text in there too.
O.K., I have photo up. Need to figure out how to put text in there too.
The most obvious way is to place the text cursor either in front of or after the picture after you have inserted the image in the edit widow, and then start hitting the keys on your keyboard to produce words ...
OK, I know where you are coming from.
Try entering some text before inserting the picture.
Then after the picture is showing take the cursor to the lower right corner of the picture and hit enter.
This should move the cursor to a space under the picture where you can add more text or sign off.
Or and I hope this isn't confusing but after entering the text you could hit the enter button several times and then move the cursor back up and insert the picture. This should leave space under the picture for more text.
Hope this helps.
AND by the way that is a great picture and and even better looking bridge. I wish I could do as well.
Keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming.
NP2626,
Awesome structure. It looks like it will be a DEEP Gulch once the scenery's in!
2). The old stick bridge that crossed the gap over this part of the layout gave me the shape of the slight curve that was needed for the trestle, normally the deck below the ties would be made from two parallel made up lumber laminations directly under the rails. However, because no one was going to be able to see directly down onto the bridge deck, I made this all from one piece of 1/4th thick mahogany trim I had laying around. Instead of laying Bridge ties on the mahogany this time and spiking rail down, I bought a piece of Micro Engineering Bridge track. I glued this down to the mahogany deck and then assembled and glued down the guard timbers and finally shaped the guard rails and glued them down to the bridge track. (A note about this, Micro Engineering's instruction sheet recommended using CA to glue both the guard timbers and rails down to the track. However, I was finding the bond to be very week using this method.
I emailed Micro Engineering about this and was told they use Pliobond?! (I guess it would have been nice to know this before I started, I'd have bought some Pliobond when I bought the M.E. Bridgetrack)!
For a short time my photographs went missing! It was fixed the next time I looked.
Gidday, "A picture is worth a thousand words". Don' t know how many photos you posted but the two I'm looking at are ok. and thanks for posting them. Trestle looks good as well.
Cheers, The Bear.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Now the photos are back, that's good! Must have been some technical difficulties.
Here is a photo of the East abutment of the bridge. This is an AIM Field Stone plaster casting, modefide slightly to allow for the bridge deck stringers.
And, here are the East end abutments. The main abutment is the same as the other side, just shortened to fit between the upper and lower tracks. Then there is another abutment to support the timber bent at the west end of the through girder section of the trestle. All of these abutment s are made by AIM Products, painted and weathered and secured in postion with buildups and contact cement.
.
The through Plate Girder bridge is built from Atlas girders and the center portion from another Atlas truss bridge, which may not be available anymore. The Micro Engineering bridgetrack is glued atop the old Atlas bridge section.Once the bridge deck was done, it was time to build the trestle bents. The first thing I did was build a jig that all five of the bents would be built on. The photo below shows this jig, built on a chunk of maple I had laying around. The small wood guides are Kappler Ties left over from the last trestle I built. I used Kalmbach's Book: How to build Bridges and Trestles to get an idea for the right proportions and where things should go. The bents were built from 1/8th inch dowels and 1/16th thick balsa. Trestles I've seen here in Minnesota were mostly built from round pilings and not square timbers; so, that's why I used dowels. The book describes how the horizontal sills at story height and sway bracing all fit together.
I certainly appreciate the compliments! The reason I thought I'd talk about talking about building this bridge is to show YOU that this type of a project is within most people's capablities! It is fun to do and very rewarding!
Building the trestle bent jig: I determined how tall the tallest bent was going to be (100 feet) and made sure my jig could accommodate that bent. The book I previously mentioned, names the parts of the trestle, and talks about the geometry of building these types of bridges. You could build one absolutely correctly and to absolute scale if you desire. I used the old, "That looks about right" as far as the story height goes and "batter"; or, spread of the trestle pilings.
The picture below shows the jig I built from scrap lumber and Kappler ties. If you don't have Kappler (or, other mfger) ties and don't see where you can make good use of them for other projects, use other strip wood; or, even balsa strips.
Although I used a chunk of Maple drawer side as the jig base (its was laying around waiting for a project), any flat board or chunk of plywood will do. To determine the length of your bents and how many you will need, I made a quick and dirty scale drawing of the bridgedeck. I calculated the length of the span being supported by the bents and via suggestions in the book mentioned above about the distances between the trestle bents, I determined that I was going to need 5 bents. Since the "Deep Gultch Trestle" was all about drama, I picked 100 scale feet as the maximum length of my tallest bent. The other 4 bents would simply be less than 100 scale feet; but, more; or less than a story, so that the geometry of each bent would look right (in other words, I wouldn't have a bent length end where a sill should be. The horizontal lines on the jig denote where the sills will be placed and those with verticle arrows pointing, down is where each Bent length ends.
Tools needed:Sorry this really should have been at the beginning of this thread; but, because the amount of tools needed is really minimal, the following is what I used on this project.
Obviously you will need some type of hobby knife. I like Elmer's Carpenter Glue and Zap-A-Gap for adhesives. You'll need a hobby saw, like a Zona; or, Xacto. I actually use a Dove Tail Saw and love mine. I ordered it through my local Ace Hardware. Straight edges at least 2-3 feet in length. A balsa stripper if you want. I use my Xacto knife and straight edge, although I do have a stripper. You could use a N.W. Short lines Chopper, if you have one. Paint brushes and paint and that's about it!
Getting Started:
As I stated in the beginning, the trestle has already been built. In fact the frame for the gulch, cardboard lattes, plaster cloth and rock faces are now done in Deep Gulch, I need to color the rock faces and add scenic details such as talus, and plant life and this section of my layout will be done. So, I'm looking back wards, when discussing this project.
I actually started building the trestle back in early January of this year. So, it has taken me from early January until now, the beginning of April to get to where I am. I maybe work on the project 3-6 hours per week. I don't look at these types of projects as something I absolutely need to get done! I look at them as something I am going to enjoy taking my time doing! This attitude maybe sets me apart from many model railroaders of today. I enjoy all the aspects of building my model railroad and it is not something that must get accomplished! There is no time-clock! I've been punching time clocks for 44 years. Down in the basement working on projects, is me time, the heart rate slows down, the problems of the day gain clarity and all seems right with the world, for the few hours I do this stuff.
I'm going to be 62 next week, I've been building models since I was 5 years old. I do this for the above reasons mostly to enjoy myself!
Enough Philosophy, let's build some Bents:
I may not describe the names of the components on a trestle correctly. However in my terminology: I call the uprights that support the track the "Pilings". The cross pieces that tie the pilings together, I call "Sills" and the diagonal bracing that run from one sill to the next, I call "sway bracing". These parts together as an assembly make up the "Bents". On my jig, I wanted to know the length of each of the bents, so I would build them to the correct length. So, I laid each individual piling in its' location on the jig and then cut it to length. It's important to have a cap on the jig that is square to the center piling, that will stop each piling at the top of the bent. Once all the pilings are cut to the correct length. it's time to place the sills in their position. The book I mentioned, states that the sills should be no farther then 12' 6" apart. So, I also marked my jig so the sills could be positioned where they were supposed to be. I extended the sills about 1 scale foot beyond the outer pilings. I used Carpenter's Glue to glue all of the trestle together. I applied the glue with a small balsa stick, so I had just enough glue, put the sill in position and weighted them down with small weights to make sure I got a good bond. After the sills had dried, I put the sway bracing on using the same gluing technique and weighting them down and let them dry. When I knew the glue had dried, I popped the bent out of the jig and glued the sills on the back side and after that, glued the sway bracing onto the back side. Note that the sway bracing goes on the exact same way it did on the first side, this provide an X cross brace for each story.Repeat this process for as many bents as you’re going to need.
Although the above photo shows the bents finished, painted and mounted to the bridge deck, it does show the general idea.
At the top of my trestle, I wanted direct support under the rails for the intermeadiate (2 & 4) pilings, the center one (3) should be "on Center" and the outer two (1 & 5) were equally spaced out, as the intermendiates were from the center one. Having a factory edge on the jig board allows the use of a square to make the bents plumb and square. I liked the looks of the spread; or, "batter" with the base of the pilings spread apart 40 feet for the tallest bent. Pilings 2 & 4 were simply equally divided. I used one of the outer pilings (which were the longest) to locate and glue down the ties that jig the pilings in place. Once all the ties were glued down, bent construction could begin.
I was surprised at how much work was involved in assembling the Micro Engineering bridgetrack, especially since I followed their instruction's recommendations as far as what adhesive to use. Then finding that the bond was week using this method and much of this work had to be redone!I believe using wood ties and spiking the rail down to the ties would have been a faster method to build the bridge track! However,the M.E. track does look very nice. Hand laying would have eliminated another head scratcher, transitioning from Code 100 to the code 83 on the bridge, as I would have used Code 100.
In thinking about the length of time this project has taken me, I'm an R/C modeler, also. Building a model airplane is always a winter long project, if building from a kit; or, plans. So, this was a short-little project from my perspective and really a bunch of fun!
Staining/Weathering:
At this point all five of my bents have been built, the track laid on the bridge deck and I'm almost ready to start assembling the bents to the bridge deck. However, it will be easier to stain the bents, bridge deck and paint the track previous to actually assembling anything. So, I used Floquil's Roof Brown to spray paint the ties and rails, cleaning off the running rails just after spraying on the roof brown as it's easier to clean off while still wet. Then I use a small container to mix up a batch of my staining mixture. I use Ceramicoat's Acrylic paints for most of my staining, weathering and etc. I poured a teaspoon or so of black with a small amount of Burnt Sienna into a container (the container is an empty-used bottle of Ceramicoat paint. To this mixture, I add about two thirds of its' volume of water. I tried this on one of the bents and was satisfied, so I stained the bents and bottom of the bridge deck. What I want is a fairly dark stain that brings out the grain of the wood and will turn sort of gray when dry; but, with some blotchiness to the coverage. Invariably there will be white spots where the glue keeps the stain from staining the wood. I don't worry about this, as later when the stain has dried I will go back over these white places on the structure with straight black; or, Burnt Sienna to cover the white splotches. When satisfied with how things look, I apply some dry brushing of light gray or white. If you like the brown, by all means make yours more brown!I forgot to mention that all my sills, sway bracing, girts and diagonals are made from 1/16th balsa wood which takes these stains very nicely and gets real grainy.Most people seem to stain their trestles with some type of brown stain. Creosoted timbers do look brownish for the first few years they are out in the weather. Soon, however, I've seen that they turn gray and blotchy with black areas where the creosote was heavy. So I see timber trestles as being gray from weathering and this is the look I am after.
Sorry about the focus on the above photo; but, it does show the Roof Brown grayish washed look I was after for the ties on the bridge track.
(Would it be better if I resized my photos? They seem large and at times it is difficult to insert text below the photos?)
Installing the bents:
I started by gluing the middle bent on, in the middle of the bridge deck, that way I can use my combination square to make sure the bents are 90 degrees to the bridge deck. Part of sketching out the trestle was making decisions about how many bents I would use, what the distance between each bent would be, deciding how tall each bent would be and making sure these dimensions are what I built the various parts to. So, the underside of the bridge deck had lines drawn at the transverse centerline of each bent. This gave me any angle that was needed for positioning the bents on the curved portion of the trestle and the proper spacing to use between the bents. The first bent I glued down was the center/tallest one. Again, using carpenters glue and my combination square, I put some glue across the top sills of the bent and assembling the trestle upside down, I used my square and a spring clothes pin to clamp this bent in position. I then let this bent's glue dry for a couple hours. Then, working outwards from this center bent, I glued the next bent in place, checking that it is square to the bridge track and that it aligns with the centerling of the previously installed bent (from the side of the trestle and down the centerline of the track). Then I waited a couple more hours for this ones glue to set. Once this took place, I glued around 6-8 of the girts in place between the two bents, to secure the two bents and give them some stability. Because the trestle is built upside down, the girts go underneath the sills and inside the four outer pilings. In this instance, I used gap filling CA, as I wanted the girts to be held in their locations and the glue to dry quickly. When I've read articles on building trestles in the book I have and in the magazines, I've seen the folks describe the process of building their trestles from the ground up. To have the trestle work out right, doing it this way, will require that every bent be precisely the correct length, otherwise there will be a gap between the bent and bridge deck, or one bent will invariably be slightly taller then needed, making for a bunch of fitting to get everything to work out right. For real railroads, this method is really the only way to get the job done. For models, because we can lift the whole trestle in and out of it's locations as many times as it takes to get it right, I think building them upside down make more sense. However, there's always more than one way to skin a cat! So if you have an idea that works and an interesting in sharing, I would like to hear and see it described!