richhotrain Phoebe Vet: Rich: Why are you continually repositioning track? I overstated that a little. What I meant to say was that after laying track, especially the turnouts and the connecting track to the turnouts, I have to "initially" (not continually) reposition the connecting track and/or turnout a little at times to be certain that the point rails are fully tucked against the stock rails when testing the Tortoise movements. If need be, i remove a nail or two, reposition the offending track, then re-nail. If the track were caulked, I couldn't reposition the offending track. Rich
Phoebe Vet: Rich: Why are you continually repositioning track?
Rich:
Why are you continually repositioning track?
I overstated that a little.
What I meant to say was that after laying track, especially the turnouts and the connecting track to the turnouts, I have to "initially" (not continually) reposition the connecting track and/or turnout a little at times to be certain that the point rails are fully tucked against the stock rails when testing the Tortoise movements. If need be, i remove a nail or two, reposition the offending track, then re-nail. If the track were caulked, I couldn't reposition the offending track.
Rich
When laying track, I always position the turnouts first. I don't glue them down, but pin them in place with either pushpins or t-pins. Once in place, I connect sections of flextrack to the turnout, then trace the outline. Once that is done, I spread a thin layer of caulk as mentioned above, connect with flextrack with rail joiners, then press it into place into the caulk. Place weights on top of the track. The caulk will be dry and the track secure usually in less than an hour. If you need to move the track, slide a putty knife under it, and it comes up fairly easily.
Marlon
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If you have a problem seeing your centerlines - cheat. Add half a tie length to the radius when you mark your curves and position your tie ends along the line. That way, even if you use grey caulk to hide holidays in your ballast, there's a dependable reference to lay your flex to.
My minimum mainline radius is 610mm (24 inches) and my trammel is drilled at 596mm and 624mm. Sometimes it's easier to work with the inside ends of the ties.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with latex caulk track adhesive)
SilvertonRR When I hear you say “latex caulk” or “DAP clear or gray caulk” ---- Is that a 100% silicone caulk or a combination of silicone and something else?? It does seem that the clear or silicone caulk would allow you to still see your track or radius line that you have drawn on your board or foam.Thanks
When I hear you say “latex caulk” or “DAP clear or gray caulk” ---- Is that a 100% silicone caulk or a combination of silicone and something else?? It does seem that the clear or silicone caulk would allow you to still see your track or radius line that you have drawn on your board or foam.Thanks
Not silicone, DAP Alex plus or other cheap "latex" caulk. Any excess or mess wipes off w/ damp rag or washes w/ water before set. I wouldn't want any silicone around rails or the mess that it presents during it's use. Your siliconized hands will coat everything you touch also w/o cleaning w/ Acetone.
Some caulks are siliconized (noted as paintable), only has a small % of silicone, not 100%.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
I use plain latex adhesive caulk, no silicon in it, 100% latex. The "dries clear" stuff actually comes out white and turns clear as it dries. You can see your lines for centerlines because you spread it thin enough that you cna see through the white. Another way to tell if you are using too much - if you can;t see a pencil line through the layer after you spread it out, you're using too much.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I use this:
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
Latex Caulk is not 100% silicone. Either could work for laying track since the layer that you are putting down is thin enough to see your guide line. Lion prefers 100% silicone for most applications, but uses latex for other applications because it is cheaper.
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Shifting the turnout to fix an alignment issue with the switch motor is probably not the best way to go about that, although it might be easier. It wouldbe nice if the screw slots ont he Tortoise were deeper, this makign it easier ot adjust, but in my experience they never were that picky, as long as you had it close there was tension on the throwbar in both positions. Uneven doesn't seem to matter, as long as there is some on each side to prevent any picking. Now that I use servos, there's absolutely no concern since the stop point in either direction is a simple electrical adjustment with the controller and provided the hole is drilled in the right place (so the actuating wire doesn't jam against the hole before the throwbar is moved), you can get pretty precise even pressure in both directions. I generally don't bother, if I can move the points away fromt he set stock rail and they snap back without hanging up, I consider that sufficient force. If it sounds like a sna solenoid machine, i dial it back a little, no need to press that hard.
Phoebe Vet Rich: Why are you continually repositioning track?
Alton Junction
Randy,
Do you think this method would work with O scale track? Thanks.
Vince
If you need to take track out, even for a minor move, you can pull it up easily. A little fresh caulk and it goes right back down.
JaBear:
Yes, caulk can be painted. Check the container. It will tell you if that particular type of caulk is paintable.
What are you constantly repositioning? Don't you have a plan, or at least some idea of where you're goign before you lay track? If you mean minor adjustments to get everything lined up, there's plenty of working time with caulk to do that.
Onmy previous layout I actually printed the plan full size and traced it - NEVER gain, waste of paper and time. This time I used the plan just to make sure what I wanted to do wiuld fit in the space without cheating, and indepdently drew in curves with a trammel and also marked straights with a straight edge. Turnouts I fit in place without rail joiners, trace around it to mark the location, drill the hole for the throwbar and for the frog wire, install joiners, put some caulk up under the frog end, well away from the moving parts, and drop it in. A little nudge to make the joints line up without a kink, that's all there is to it, it never has to move again.
Another fan of nailing here.
I cannot understand how everyone who uses latex caulk lays their track work perfectly the first time around. Whenever I lay track, I am continually repositioning the track, especially turnouts. If the track is caulked, there is no opportunity to reposition it.
Gidday, Hope the layout construction is progressing without to many unforeseen difficulties. As an "Old Technological Luddite" I'm a big fan of the track nail though I do use MDF as road bed and use PVA glue to hold down the ballast. If track has had to have been pulled up, very hot water appears "melt " the glue.
Having said that if there too many people around with my attitude we would probably be still riding horses.
Can the latex caulk be painted?
Cheers, The Bear.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Yet another vote for latex caulk. I use DAP in gray color.
As far as not using roadbed, well, it is a personal choice, but if you look at nicely ballasted mainline, the profile is very realistic. Less so for sidings and yards, but then, you could always build the terrain UP.
Roadbed, especially the foam variety, helps to deaden sound (not intending to kick off another one of those "yes it does / no it doesn't debates).
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Another vote for latex caulk. However, not mentioned above, do not use it under your turnouts. Let the tracks they are attached to hold them down. Keeps the throw bar from getting stuck and makes it easier to remove a turnout if it has a malfunction and you do not have to disturb all of your track work.
Under my turnouts I have sprayed the cork roadbed with a textured paint that is about the same color as my ballast. Makes it so you do not need to use so much ballast around the turnouts to hide the cork.
Good luck,
Richard
If you glue to foam roadbed as pictured above, you can salvage the track pretty easily, because the foam will tear if the glue doesn't separate.
Remember, though, that if you ballast your track, you are effectively gluing it down.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
That is EXACTLY how it should look when done. Just the right amount, nearly invisible (get the right angle you cna see the area with caulk is slightly shiny), not piled up against the ties. Secure yet easily removed if need be. And economical - my previous layout was 8x12 double track with a 3 track yard and a bunch of sidings. ONE tube of caulk did all the roadbed AND track.
I use DAP clear caulk spread tissue paper thin. It holds tight, is easily pried back up, and completely invisible when dry.
Latex caulk is less stuff than Liquid Nails and preferred. If it's done right, the track can easily be lifted with a putty knife. For laying track, the bead of caulk should eb thinned out so it's litle more than a glossy layer on top of the roadbed, that's all it takes to get the track to adhere. If you spread it on thick so it oozes up between the ties - you've used WAY too much and probably will have a realy hard time getting the track up if it dries like that.
I'm on my second layout now using caulk for my track, it's fast and easy. I have extruded foam surfaces so nails wouldn;t work anyway, but even if I switch back to plain plywood, I'd still use caulk now. I was skeptical when I first read it but after giving it a try there was no going back.
I saw on YouTube, a modeller using Liquid Nails glue to put tracks down directly on to his baseboard.
While I admire his confidence, to me this is a one-way trip with absolutely no possibilities in changing his mind or even redesigning the layout in future. Ripping up & destroying the track is the only option. You do save on track nails I suppose. The YouTube modeller also does not use a cork track bed as he believed the track height to become unrealistic.
Do any MRM followers use glue to lay tracks? Are there any pros or cons either way?