If this guy doesnt like Peco Flex track then he better not ever use Micro Engineering flex track. It will send him over the edge.
But then again I didnt realize folks were still nailing down flex track either.
Larry
I have to say I am all Peco C55 on my new build and it is the best track I have ever used and I don't like Atlas flex because of how it springs to normal if you let go.
Also in Peco C55 the nail holes are indented on the bottom and I use a #66 drill bit to open them before I start setting the track using Peco nails. Everyone has their likes and dislikes but I agree with Steven Otte that we don't have to try and mimic cussing! Doug
riogrande5761 I have some Peco switches but always used Atlas flex - and had lots saved from my last layout so the "great Atlas track shortage" hasn't affected me yet.
I have some Peco switches but always used Atlas flex - and had lots saved from my last layout so the "great Atlas track shortage" hasn't affected me yet.
Rich
Alton Junction
That said, with all this fuss over Peco flex track, I'm going to have to pick some up and see what it's all about! If it is fairly bendy, it might be something I'd like.
I do have some Walthers code 70 stiff flex track for my yard, so I'll get to have some fun struggling to make it fairly straight as I get into that stage of the layout.
Cheers, Jim
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
When I started this thread over 3 years ago, it was my first experience with Peco flex track. But, since then, with the extended shortage of Atlas flex track, I have bought a fair number of pieces of Peco Code 83 flex track. I no longer hate it, although i can't say that I love it. Once you learn to work with it, it is fine.
Well, now that this 4 year old thread is awake again..
A while ago i ordered some Peco flex to test with - gotta say, I have not had any of the problems mentioned. Tested curving it, flowed smoothly, must like Atlas. Out of the box from shipping, one rail was partly pushed through a few inches from then end, on all 5 pieces I ordered. No problem slipping it back through the 'spikes' and evening it out. Definitely did not have to cut the ends off. This is their Code 83, US style track, not the Code 100 or Code 75 UK style track, which may behave differently.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I think the issue - at least from what I have seen - with Peco, is that the rails are uncontrollable while bending a curve. In my case, I didn't even curve it, but I picked it up and moved it, and then when I looked, the rails were hanging off one end of the track about 3", and it is nearly impossible to thread them back through the ties, rendering the length of track completely useless until you cut it on one end. So I don't care for them either, you end up cutting 3 - 4 " off a length of track, and you waste a foot or 2 of track before you know it.
Peco flex for me, everytime!
Someone said ealier in the thread that they used Caulk, thats excactly what i did and it works like a charm.
There is no need to mess around with track pins and holes in the ties, thats why it dosnt come with holes!
You simply dont need em. Ive seen so many great pictures of peoples layouts that are spoilt when you can see a great nail head in between the rails. All you have to do is use a very thin layer of caulk on the road bed, get the aligment you need, hold it temporarily with some pins and job done.
When i built my layout, i must have used about 60 yeards of Peco flex and never had a problem with it. I managed to lay nice, true sweeping transitional curves with it, no dog-legs, no missalignments, just perfect curves everytime!
On the other hand, i have some Micro Engineering flex track that ive yet to use on my layout, i can not for the life of me flex that stuf without getting kinks and generaly a mess! Il only use it in my staging yard! Shame, because Micro Engineering flex looks great.
rrebell I can see both sides and I believe the difference is in how we attach the track. If you use nails, then I am sure the Atlas is far easier, however if you use something like caulk, then you really need stuff without the spring back feature.
I can see both sides and I believe the difference is in how we attach the track. If you use nails, then I am sure the Atlas is far easier, however if you use something like caulk, then you really need stuff without the spring back feature.
sfcouple I have three different brands of flex track on my layout: Walthers, Atlas, and Peco and didn't have any particular problems with any of them---other than accommodating the slight height difference in the ties. Most of the track was glued in place using pins to hold it in place while drying. However, I can highly recommend the use of Ribbon Rail Track gauges when laying track, these make the job so much easier and act as excellent heat sinks when soldering. Wayne
I have three different brands of flex track on my layout: Walthers, Atlas, and Peco and didn't have any particular problems with any of them---other than accommodating the slight height difference in the ties. Most of the track was glued in place using pins to hold it in place while drying. However, I can highly recommend the use of Ribbon Rail Track gauges when laying track, these make the job so much easier and act as excellent heat sinks when soldering.
Wayne
Those Ribbon Rail Track Alignment gauges are particularly useful when forming curves to maintain the desired radius.
Modeling HO Freelance Logging Railroad.
I've used a lot of Micro Engineering track on my current layout, plus quite a bit of Atlas 83. All of it attached with acrylic/latex caulk. I haven't found the Atlas to be difficult to work with at all, and haven't experienced it trying to spring out of alignment. I use push pins to keep it in place while the caulk sets.
Rob Spangler
That's an interesting, and probably valid, point.
I do use nails and maybe that's why I prefer Atlas flex track over Peco.
richhotrain bearman: richhotrain: But, today, I needed some flex track, and it was all that I had, so I used it. How do you guys work with this stuff It is awful. How do you really feel? Don't hold back!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL Hey, bearman, I thought that I was pretty reserved. You should see me in Really Upset Mode. Rich
bearman: richhotrain: But, today, I needed some flex track, and it was all that I had, so I used it. How do you guys work with this stuff It is awful. How do you really feel? Don't hold back!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
richhotrain: But, today, I needed some flex track, and it was all that I had, so I used it. How do you guys work with this stuff It is awful.
But, today, I needed some flex track, and it was all that I had, so I used it.
How do you guys work with this stuff It is awful.
How do you really feel? Don't hold back!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
LOL
Hey, bearman, I thought that I was pretty reserved. You should see me in Really Upset Mode.
I truly believe that you were on the reserved side. Happy New Year!
Bear "It's all about having fun."
I actually preferred the fact that Peco holds it's shape after being bent. It was easier to cut the longer rail in order to fit the joiner in a curve. With springy Atlas track I felt like I needed three or four hands to do everything at once. I had soldered two three foot sections before hand but that was all I was wiling to do ahead of time. I guess everyone has their preferences.
secondhandmodeler I love Peco flex track! I thought it was much easier to install than Atlas. I guess to each their own.
I love Peco flex track! I thought it was much easier to install than Atlas. I guess to each their own.
Dunno, Corey, there is nothing difficult about working with Atlas flex track, so i don't know how Peco could be easier.
I can't speak to the HO Peco track but I certainly liked the N-scale peco track much better than the Atlas. But I do remember it being springy like HO Atlas not stiff like Shinohara.
If you don't like the Peco flextrack, then don't ever ever get Micro Engineering flextrack.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
rrinker To each his own, but the 'sproing' flex track is FAR FAR easier to form into smooth curves than the other kinds where you have to work your way along and set the curve. I'm sure it works fine, but I don;t understand how anyone could find this 'easier'. --Randy
To each his own, but the 'sproing' flex track is FAR FAR easier to form into smooth curves than the other kinds where you have to work your way along and set the curve. I'm sure it works fine, but I don;t understand how anyone could find this 'easier'.
I agree with you 100% on this one, Randy. The couple times I tried to use some of the stiff stuff I always found that making a bend in one end, no matter how gentle, would result in the other end tending to bend in the opposite direction.
Edited the original post and several replies to remove simulated profanity.
And if I didn't make this post, I bet nobody would notice it's gone.
Using symbols in place of a curse word is against Forum policy. What's more, it's unnecessary. You people are smart enough to express yourselves without it. So please don't. Thanks.
--Steven Otte, Model Railroader senior associate editorsotte@kalmbach.com
I am in total agreement with you, Randy.
Long live Atlas flex track !
To each his own, but the 'sproing' flex track is FAR FAR easier to form into smooth curves than the other kinds where you have to work your way along and set the curve. I'm sure it works fine, but I don;t understand how anyone could find this 'easier'. With the 'sproing' track it's nearly impossible to get a kink other than at joints betwene sections, which is true of any sectional or flex track. Curves are autoamtically smooth, much like using a bent stick to draw the centerline in the first placeEven with less than perfect alignment, you end up with gently iggles rather than jerky kinks, simply because the track tends to want to be straight anyway.
Rich - I think we better don´t want to
bearman richhotrain: But, today, I needed some flex track, and it was all that I had, so I used it. How do you guys work with this stuff It is awful. How do you really feel? Don't hold back!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You should be thankful that your not working w/ ME flex, I wonder what you'd be saying !!!
Got spoiled w/ that springy Atlas, The Peco can be tough and wants to kink on you.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Hey, pick, thanks, good advice.
Hi Rich,
Boy, an it ain't New-year yet.
Merry Christmas mate, try laying a length of track on a flat surface, hold fingers against outer rail and thumbs on inner facing center, bow it out gently noting which rail slides easiest. That rail is laid on the inside of the curve and it's the awkward sod that needs cropping to length. All codes of Peco are the same, you ain't tried pointwork yet!!!
Modelling's fun ye know. Happy New-year to you and yours.
Be in touch.
pick.
I use the Peco C55 in N scale and while it is stiff, I like it much better than the Atlas C80 I used to have. I have some of the Atlas in my staging yard (got it cheap), and you can sure tell the difference. To say the Peco track is robust would be an understatement. The stuff is bullet-proof. I bend it to the radius I want, and it stays there. I have not encountered the twisting problem you have. And I like the fact that there are no pre-drilled holes. Why? Because most holes are drilled in the middle of a tie. I don't like a spike driven in the middle of the tie, especially in N scale. I shave off a tie plate on the outside of the rail and drill my own hole and use a ME small spike to tack it down. It blends in very well.
Scott