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Word to the Wise: next time use a sprue cutter

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  • Member since
    May 2007
  • From: East Haddam, CT
  • 3,272 posts
Posted by CTValleyRR on Saturday, September 24, 2011 1:16 PM

I agree with sprue nippers, and in general having the right tool for the job.  Sprue nippers are far and away the fasted tool for the job, but a hobby knife is often an excellent choice, especially when there isn't a lot of room for your nippers near the part.  As someone else posted, though, it's often that little gap between the part and the cutting mat which causes breakage, and using a small piece of scrap wood or the corner of your mat is often the best technique for getting those small parts out.

Do not EVER twist parts out by hand (my son will never do that again, after I told him not to, he didn't listen, and ended up leaving the musket of one of his soldiers on the sprue!).  Also, have a mill file (not a jeweler's file) handy to clean off the little nub left when you're done.

Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford

"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Friday, September 23, 2011 6:16 AM

 It's generally ok to use a tool on material softer than it was designed for - a rail nipper will do fine for plastic or small copper wire. But do not use rail nipeprs to cut music wire - the wire is harder than the jaws and will nick them. One exception is files, but only because metal particles can still be in the gile grooves even after cleaning and if you then attempt to file plastic, it will nick the plastic and make a ragged edge. SO use 2 sets of files, one for metal,one for plastic.

 For really tiny sprues, even the smaller tweezer nippers are too big. A single-edge razor blade works good for those sort of things, and cut on a cutting mat, not a potentially uneven benchtop. That way the pressure stays more even. The tiny grabs and other details in Proto 2000 and Branchline Blueprint kits can be easily but carefully removed from the sprue with a razor blade. A nipper of any type would break the parts. A single edge razor blade is thinner than a typical #11 blade, as well.

                              --Randy


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Southwest US
  • 12,914 posts
Posted by tomikawaTT on Friday, September 23, 2011 12:35 AM

It's always a good idea to cut the sprue a little bit away from the finished part and refine the end fit with something abrasive.  In the OP's context, that's a fine emory board (the kind milady uses to touch up her fingernails) not a 10 inch mill file.

And, always, be gentle!

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • 10,582 posts
Posted by mlehman on Friday, September 23, 2011 12:13 AM

I do use my rail cutters for cutting those big phat sprues that you find in some kits. They're just too big for my little nippers.

The right tool for the job is always a wise investment.Bow

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Weymouth, Ma.
  • 5,199 posts
Posted by bogp40 on Thursday, September 22, 2011 11:05 PM

Yes, sprue cutters do work quite well, however, don't think they will cut that extremely delicate piece perfectly from the sprue.  I will use them to just separate the part then continue shaving, shaping to remove any portion of the nub from the gate.  Those delicate brake and air lines can be the most troublesome of all. I have found that they can be so delicate that as you cut away you actually need to pass a #11 blade a few times on the furthermost end of the sprue all the while anchoring as you cut your way "up'.  The Xacto blade will break a small part if too heavy handed, try to cut w/ one pass, chop into the gate or try to cut the gate when the part is unsupported below. Moving the sprue around over a small block of soft wood will allow to brace the part for cutting.

In my experience sprue cutters can be quick but don't work nearly as well as the brand new #11 blade. Just need to be careful and patient w/ those small/ tricky pieces.

Modeling B&O- Chessie  Bob K.  www.ssmrc.org

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: upstate NY
  • 9,236 posts
Posted by galaxy on Thursday, September 22, 2011 8:40 PM

I won't pick on you or chide you for your error. Smile, Wink & Grin

We all make mistakes.

A MIS-take simply means next time you do a RE-take.

You have learned the lesson your shop teacher tried to instill in you very well.

When we try to "cut corners", sometimes we CUT the corner off!!!

When I got back intothe hobby 6 years ago I had to buy LOTS of new tools for various jobs. There is a reason for each and every tool. And it adds up $$, but as you know..."the RIGHT tool for the job..."

Also another word of advice:  DO NOT use your Sprue Nippers for anything else but to cut sprues! {it can dull them quickly} AND Also DO NOT use you Rail Nippers for anything else, especially to cut sprues! ANd DO NOT use you Sprue Cutters to try and cut rail!!! {Others have learned this the hard way and posted about it..I have only read aobut it as I don't use those tools in that altered way...}

Smile and ENJOY the hobby!!

Geeked

 

 

-G .

Just my thoughts, ideas, opinions and experiences. Others may vary.

 HO and N Scale.

After long and careful thought, they have convinced me. I have come to the conclusion that they are right. The aliens did it.

  • Member since
    December 2009
  • 76 posts
Word to the Wise: next time use a sprue cutter
Posted by brakeman618 on Thursday, September 22, 2011 7:15 PM

I thought I would pass on a reason why to all of you model railroaders, both new and old. I ask why a lot to find out reasons behind doing things (my two year old was notorious for doing this too). I am building the Walthers Interstate Fuel and Oil kit and don't have a sprue cutter. I figured it wouldn't matter because I could just use a hobby knife or regular wire cutters. WRONG!

After breaking the dock posts (the ones that support the dock on the quonset hut), I realized why it is very important to (as my old shop teacher would say) "use the right tool for the right job." Although my mistake adds character and age to the model, the part would have not broken had I used the right tool.

Mistakes can be a good thing in this hobby but it is important to keep in mind the safety aspects and why's to avoid broken or missing parts or damage to you or the model. Just another Word to the Wise.

Tags: Safety , Tools

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