Took the "finished" Alameda Belt-in-a-Box to the Great Train Show at Craneway Pavilion in Richmond, CA this past weekend, and set it up on a table that acted as the gate to our Silicon Valley Free-moN layout:Some lovely sunlight Sunday morning:With the table being about 36" high, the layout was a big hit with kids (& parents, who could finally take a break from lifting them up to see our 50"-tall Free-moN modules).A short video of the NW2 in action (in faux 4K!):Thanks for looking.
M.C. Fujiwara
My YouTube Channel (How-to's, Layout progress videos)
Silicon Valley Free-moN
PROTIP: Don't keep the iron long on the brass wire while soldering to PC board throwbar--it melts the slide switch toggle on the other side of the wire! Thought I was going to have to excavate a larger hole to accommodate another AdaFruit slide switch, but it "turned out" I had ONE more SparkFun left over (and with hole already drilled through toggle!).So ripped out melted slide switch & soldered in new.Here are all the newly installed slide switches, with NW2 for reference:Compare with an earlier photo with the Caboose Catapults:Can still see those Caboose Catapults from scale Space:So a little bit of ground cover (tomorrow) & those small slide switches will disappear:World Champ & MVP Steph Curry (who just moved into my town a few feet away from the old SP line) sez after the win over the Cavs: "Powered frogs & smooth slide switches make for a Warrior of a small switching layout!"Hope everyone had a lovely holiday today (even those in the Cleveland area).Now on to Boxing Day, with FOUR Premier League matches back-to-back-to-back-to-back!http://www.livesoccertv.com/schedules/2015-12-26/All starting at 4:45 PDT, so Merry Christmas to all, & to all a good night!
Apparently spray tacky doesn't hold up over 4 years:So I re-glued that.Back to the slide switches!Here's a size comparison between the larger Radio Shack ones (with flanges) & the SparkFun slide switches I used for this project:I think they're too big for N scale, but many people have used them successfully, and with quality scenicking they're not as intrusive as the Caboose Catapults I'm replacing.I'm using the small SparkFun due to the pre-existing slim spaces between already installed turnouts & track.I would rather use the AdaFruit ones (on left, SparkFun on right):So I installed one at the back to try it out:[Haven't connected brass rods to throwbars yet--that will be after family lunch while watching GSWarriors beat the Cavs again]Here's a close up for size comparison:Like I've said before, the AdaFruit are a big larger, but very well constructed, have longer terminals, & have a "click" at end of each travel to hold toggle (& thus points) more firmly in place.Will be using AdaFruit on my next projects!Alrighty: kids have finished opening presents, so it's off to lunch at parents' place!Mother-in-law showed up from Japan a couple days ago (surprise!) & staying with us for 6 weeks (surprise!), & my brother appeared from L.A. yesterday, so will be a crowded table (Especially with good food!)Then it's back to work off the meal by workin' on the railroad:Have a groovy day, everyone.I'll try to raise a glass to each & every one of you
Thanks for the kind words.So I finished installing the 7 slide switches on the right side (the "top" of the layout when folded into a box for travel), & I should have made a video then, as that side was easy!The turnout I used for making the "How To" video turned out to be the most difficult (at the edge, so support material underneath):& everything went wrong every time the camera started rolling (of course), but I think I got enough to convey both how to install slide switches as well as why it's important to have powered frogs for better ops.At the very least, the slide switches are more N scale photo phriendly than the Caboose "Catapults":[At least they will be after I scenic around them!]And slide switches power the frogs, which is 20-kabillion-times more important to smooth, happy model railroading than almost anything else.So here's the "How To" video showing how to install SparkFun slide switches https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9609 for turnout control:
If you're installing on pink foam then cut out a 0.030 / 0.040 styrene rectangle frame that slips over the slide switch, then secure the styrene frame to the foam.
Hope this helps improve ops on your layout.Thanks for looking!
Thanks for the kind words!
Yes, both the SparkFun slide switches I used & the AdaFruit have a travel almost exact for N scale turnouts.(So you don't have to put the Z-bend in the wire)
I handlay my turnouts, which allows for a little wiggle room adjusting the throw distance by repositioning the points, but I and others have used these on Atlas C55 turnouts as well and they work great.
The AdaFruit have the added benefit of having a little "click" that holds the toggle in thrown position. The AdaFruit are slightly longer & wider than the SparkFun, so I wanted to use the smaller SparkFun ones on this layout, given the tight spaces already existing.
On future layouts I'll probably use the AdaFruit, as any mechanism to hold the toggle/points more secure is better over the long run.
Finished an HO build for a client, got a "real" job, cleaned up (but not out) the garage/workbench, so getting back into my own model railroad projects.Not expecting any more space anytime soon, so working to replace the oversized Caboose Industries "Catapults" with SparkFun slide switches.Not only smaller & thus better for photos, but also power frogs, which increases running reliability 20000000%.Which is worth the kabillion hours installing them.Compare with the Catapults:[Slide switch at lower right]So finished installing all the slide switches on the right side of the shelf layout:And just applying some NeoLube helps the slide switch loose its shine & blend in, even before scenicking.[Compare NeoLubed left with au natural right]But once all the slide switches were installed on the right side, it was a good excuse to run some trains & share some video:A quick video, so pardon the janky light & whatnot.Just happy to be working on the railroad again.And spreading the gospel of powered frogs & slide switches.Cheers!Thanks for looking.
Well, now that I've gotten rid of 90% of my Free-moN modules (all except Shoofly!)(and 2 cool 45's as photo dioramas), I finally have some space on my workbench:[Ignore that "Possible New Shelf Project"--not going to happen/for awhile]So while I build some structures to finish up the HO logging layout for a friend, I thought I should use the opportunity of a relatively-clear workbench to "finish" the "Alameda Belt In A Box" layout my daughter and I did awhile ago (wow: she was nine when we worked on it, and she just turned 13 yesterday!).And by "finish" I mean replace those ugly oversized Caboose Industries ground throws with slide switches that 1) won't look like gargantuan catapults and 2) power the frogs (very important!).Based on recommendations from fellow Free-moNster Mark W, I picked up a variety of slide switches to experiment with:The Radio Shack are smallest (and more accessible), and the Adafruit are solid, with a slight "snap" throw, and black, but I wanted to try the smaller SparkFun first, mainly because they're smaller than the Adafruit (I could always carve a bigger hole!) and they have a metal cover that goes almost all way around (RS are mostly plastic).Actually, the most difficult step of the whole conversion is drilling the hole:But even if you're close to the edge, the plastic is very strong: I slipped the brass rod in and could not break through the plastic.I popped the Caboose ground throw off, then drilled a hole with a bit slightly smaller than the width of the slide switch:Drilled another one next to it, then used the Dremel to ream out the space. A triangle file helped square the corners and widen the space so the slide switch slipped in snug:Originally, I was going to try to slip decoder wire under the rails on the surface, but it looked bad, so I just used ye ol' 22 gauge stranded under & back up:At least the wires don't hang out too much.Then I scraped away some paint on the throwbar to expose the copper, and the soldered the brass wire to the throwbar:I had to re-position one point rail to match the slide switch throw distance, but otherwise it works great!I was thinking I'd have to use the uncoupling tool (bamboo skewer) to throw the slide switch, but it's still big & sturdy enough that a fingertip/nail can throw it fine.Careful application of NeoLube on all shiny parts really helps the slide switch disappear:I still need to go back and do a little touch up ground cover, and I'm thinking about ways to make it look less slide switch and more turnout switch stand, but all in all very happy with the new look (and POWERED FROGS!!!!!!!! WOOT!).You can see the improvement over the Caboose Catapults already:One down, 13 more to go!Thanks for looking.
mcfunkeymonkey(Heck, with this layout could have tightened another 2" or so into a nice frame)
GEE MC, I think you've set a new record!!!! Thats the first time I've ever heard someone say they could do with less room!!!!
Cheers, the Bear
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Almost 2 years ago (2012):"When I put up the shelves / valence with fascia, it looked alright (though I still think I need to lower the valence a couple inches)."That's 14" of space.Well, finally got around to it a few weeks ago (4/2014).Just took out the layout, pulled out the styrene, scored-&-snapped it 4" shorter, placed the bottom shelf brackets 4" higher, and:For N scale, 10 inches is plenty of space for a 1'-deep shelf switching layout.(Heck, with this layout could have tightened another 2" or so into a nice frame)And the 4" gained underneath is double-plus good as well!The long and short of it: you don't need more than 16" of vertical space--if upper & lower valence is 3" each--to have a quality, well-lit layout!(and in reality the 14"+ of your IKEA shelves will do fine for everything!) No space excuses for a layout!
M.C., told you the 'Niners were going down, and go down they did. Sorry for your loss.
Sorry MC, the 'Niners are going down...
Some Great Old-Time Groundhog Day Goodness showed up on the shelf layout:Cases included the slim stacks as well, which I'll probably swap in. Running-wise, it seems that a wee bit o' weight in the tender and cab will help with the electrical conductivity. Very excited to play around with them more!Speaking of the 1800's: Go Niners
Wow. Another absolutely incredible project. I love how you involve your kids. I am showing this to my daughter; even though she is 16, she'll love it!
jeff c
Hi mcfunkymonkey
Only just read this thread.
Not much I can say really its all been said before it really is a top job
I bet it's real hard asking the daughter if you can play with her train set
Good on yah for showing her how to do things.
regards John
All I can say is WOW!!!!!
What a great project ,very nice work .Also a nice way to get your daughter involved in your hobby.. I went through all the post and found it very interesting to follow.
Again NICE WORK!
Ron High
Wow, really good looking layout!
I've read this thread end to end now and I must say that this is SO good!
Thank's for sharing! Very enjoyable!
(I'm honored to see my name mentioned in comparison with you and Dr Wayne in a reply as well...)
Swedish Custom painter and model maker. My Website:
My Railroad
My Youtube:
Graff´s channel
Oh, I'm not that worried, and I'm not fishing for compliments, either.Most of the time I think people don't comment because I'm doing N scale
But the last couple posts have been about lighting and valences, and I know many here have done great work, and I'd love to hear people's experiences with different lighting and thoughts on the LEDs or even tricks to light the front of the layout better than the house lights, or ???
But it's all good.
Turns out, wasn't the last detail
As I was making some angled shelves for the Free-moN staging loop module, I stopped, slapped my head, and said, "D'oh!" What was missing from the shelf layout? How about a place to put the throttle, bamboo skewers for uncoupling, and any future car cards?So I whipped up some hardboard angled shelves for this, too, using some 45 deg wood triangles as braces and moulding as the lip:Why are they both 30" long? Because that's what length hardboard I had lying around. I actually attached both units to the fascia using Gorilla "Super" Glue (as opposed to the regular GG I keep pontificating about). Squirted some on the three triangle supports, and held the unit against the fascia: 30 seconds later it was stuck. As is, not going anywhere for a looooong time. That stuff rocks! Even still, I put a 2" screw through the hardboard, triangle support, and into the shelf framing itself. Pretty sturdy.I dunno: the shelves seem to take away from some of the simple framing that was nice before. Maybe filling in the holes with some spackle and repainting will help. Or maybe gold sequins.But it is nice to have a place to put things!A couple more picts? Why not?Now to start making some car cards with photos on them!Thanks for looking.
There's not much to say outside of "Incredible work."
-Ed
"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act but a habit." -Aristotle
MCFUNKEYMONKEY: I wouldn't worry too much about the views/comments ratio.Personally,I feel a little silly telling someone of your skill "good job",or worse,offering advice.Your work speaks for itself. Sometimes,after viewing the latest from you,or Dr.Wayne,or Graffen,or a handfull of others,I find myself thinking about selling off my trains,and learning how to fish! (Well,maybe not...but you do set the bar pretty high...)I thoroughly enjoy these threads,and I hope you will continue to post your progress.
Mike (Still in Denver,CO)
Wow: over 650 views and not a single comment / suggestion.Hope it wasn't something I said.I do like to hear others' suggestions on ways to improve / alt methods.
Well, no worries: here's the last post until I get around to installing more people / details /etc., which, given all the Free-moN modules I'm working on plus Mt. Coffin & Columbia River, probably won't be for awhile.
As a last detail on the shelf construction, here's probably the most important addition:A small right-angle bracket securing the shelf to the wall! There's another on top of the valance. The fascia on the shelf sticks up a couple inches to come even with the layout, so that should keep the layout on the shelf, and the right-angle should keep the shelf on the brackets.
California occasionally has an earthquake or two ;) so I want to make sure the shelf, which is just sitting on the brackets, doesn't slide off. Will it hold during "The Big One"? Probably not, but during that time I'll probably be more worried about other things (like my family, or whether the house is still standing, fires, or availability of potable water, etc.). But it should help out during anything up to a 5 or 6 on the Rock 'n' Roll scale. (Anything under 6 is "meh" here in the Bay Area ;) )
Now onto the other projects (right after I run some trains ;) )
To give a better idea of how the Ikea "Inredia" LEDs look, here's some shots with only the LED's on (no garage lights / door open / etc.). Just LED's and the layout, surrounded by darkness:In person, operating just under the LED's is pretty cool. Gives it a Ray Harryhausen kind of feel to the layout. But having the LED's an inch or so set back in the valence plus angled towards the back does create shadows up front. Here's pretty much the same shot with the house lights on plus a CFL spot:So for everyday operating purposes, the LEDs plus the regular garage lights do the trick. Now I can reposition one of the overhead garage lights away from the wall, which will better light the layout from a further angle (and better light my workbench).Fun to run trains again! Thanks for looking.
Well, the growing number of Free-moN modules and the desire to actually run trains prompted me to finally build a shelf for the "Alameda-Belt-in-a-Box" layout. I was going to put the shelf in the bedroom until my daughter reminded me that my wife goes in there too ;) So out in the garage it goes!
Rubbermaid shelving with 1"x4" framing top & bottom:
Had to mount it tall enough to clear the Mt. Coffin & Columbia River layout (18" tall) on the table below, so I think the rail height is about 54". Added 4" of 1/8" hardboard fascia to the front and sides, painted everything flat black, then installed two packs of Ikea "Inreda" LED pucks along the underside of the valence framework: I got some 0.06" styrene in a 18" x 8' strip from Tap Plastics, then cut it down to 76" to fit behind the shelves. After notching out the spaces for the upper supports, I spray painted it grey primer, then slate blue, then mist with flat white (all at once). Came out a bit greyer than I wanted, but easy thing to pop out it out and paint it again. Just the LED's make an interesting lighting situation:But here it is with the "house" lights on as well:
So it gets plenty o' light, and photo spots can take up the rest.
I'm thinking the valence is a few inches too high for such an "intimate" layout. I'll sit with it for a couple days, but I'll probably cut the styrene backdrop down 2-3" and then lower the valence brackets the same. Might look odd in the pull-back pick, but it's plenty of light for operating the layout, and even for some photography (with a real camera, which this is not): As you can see, there's a little gap between the front fascia and the actual fold-up layout benchwork. There's a little wiggle-room, so I can push the layout right up next to the fascia if I want, which leaves more room at the back. I want to create a removable low-city backdrop that I can slip in between the 3" layout backdrop and the grey sky to help break up the flat skyline (though Alameda is pretty low, especially in the late 40's). But it's nice to have the layout up & out & ready to go & play with. And, if I want to take it anywhere, like outside to photo or to a show, I can just pick it up, fold it up and away we go! Thanks for looking.
On the lighter side, here's a sunny day in Alameda:
Thanks for looking.
But what to make of this non-rail-served industry building?My daughter is in the 4th grade which, in California, is the year students start to study California history in earnest.The layout is set in Alameda soon after WWII (1946-9).So we turned this project into a mini history lesson / tribute.We large building we labeled "Fujiwara Trading Company" and tried to make it look older (with fire damage) and unoccupied:[hmm... need more / grainier soot above fire-damaged windows...]Then we found some U.S. wartime posters and put them on the walls of Doolittle Freight:Left to right, the posters read: "Jap... You're Next! We'll Finish the Job," "Jap Hunting Licenses Sold Here Free" and "Remember Pearl Harbor: Buy War Bonds Now! Or Else...."As this layout is after the end of the war, we wanted them to look older and faded, with the "Hunting License" posted scratched and torn.Next to the Fujiwara Trading Company door we posted the U.S. Government "Executive Order 9066" sign declaring "Instructions to Persons of Japanese Ancestry" to be ready to be removed to Internment Camps within the week:After Pearl Harbor, many Japanese-American citizens living in the Bay Area put up signs on their stores to remind others that "I am an American," so I had it painted on the door. Didn't matter to Roosevelt or the Supreme Court, many Americans were stripped of their rights, locked up, and then forced to fight for the U.S. in WWII (the 442nd).[Here's more info on Japanese-American Internment, if you'd like]So instead of making the building another generic industry, we took the opportunity to do a little research and create something that has a lot of significance for us as a family:we have relatives who fought & died on both sides of the war, as well as friends who were born or lived in the Internment Camps.The best moment was when my daughter realised that, if the same situation happened today, that she would be sent off to the camps with her brother and Mom (who'd actually be deported back to Japan) while Dad would be drafted into the army and out fighting against the Japanese (or Germans, which we're also part). She looked near tears and proclaimed "That's stupid."Yes, yes it is.And all this is next to the "Rosie the Riveteer" boxcar waiting to unload at Doolittle Frieght, which is next to the Bella Fonte Cannery, which is down the tracks from Morrison Pier, so I guess at the end there's a "Peace Frog."Model Railroads are certainly teachable moments, well beyond the solder and plaster!Thanks for looking.
So this area was going to house the powerpack, but since we switched to the e-Z throttle, we don't need access to it during ops, so it became the throttle storage area.Since much of the layout is so flat, we wanted a little height and depth:We stuck a cabinet magnet on the far side & gorillaglued a small plate under the styrene base, so it's firmly attached but also pops off easily.So now there's a bit of "heft", and the layout moves from three-story left to pier/carfloat flat right, hopefully making things more interesting than straight across.Here's the backside:In terms of visual elements & composition, not too bad.But it does bring the total of structures to remove before transport up to 5.[cont.]
Thanks, Frank.There's always room for a layout, I say!Much of this layout was built by my ten-year-old daughter, so I'll pass on the complements.
Hauled the layout out onto some tables in the sun, which was playing peek-a-boo behind some clouds, so somewhat iffy photos.Continuing the sign-a-polooza, The Woodstock Warehouse and Morrison Pier got labeled:[Woodstock is an early name for one end of Alameda, and Jim Morrison of the Doors went to high school in Alameda]A closer look:The motto of Morrison Pier is "Opening the Doors to the World".A sunny day at the yard office in front of Flotsam Brewery:And the completed cover for the now-defunct powerpack space:[cont.]
I've been following the progress on this small switching layout with interest, as it demonstrates just how good N scale can look if executed properly. At first glance you could almost mistake it for HO. It is a superb little layout, obviously built by a modeler with a good eye for setting a scene and having the necessary skills for pulling it off convincingly. To everyone out there who says they don't have room for a layout, take a look at just what can be accomplished in a limited space. Well done!
Frank B
Dorval, Canada