It is a matter of the shelf for the yard is already there and that is a little too high for the rest of the layout. The way I built the shelf does not allow for easy remodeling. It is strong enough for me to stand on and I weigh over 200#s... so.... I make a slight 1.5% incline to the yard and everything is happy!
Massey
A Veteran, whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve, is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America" for an amount of "up to and including my life."
SMassey I left the long lead out of the yard because the yard is going to be at a higher level than the rest of the layout.
I left the long lead out of the yard because the yard is going to be at a higher level than the rest of the layout.
What prevents you from having the rest of your layout at the same elevation as your yard?
The higher, the better - within reason, of course.
Smile, Stein
Sorry, I didn't see the message just before I posted mine ( door issues ), but the TP's still look good.
Todd Hackett
Libby, Montana 59923
I take only pictures then leave footprints on railroad property that I know is not mine, although I treat it as such...
If the door is an issue AND you are something of a carpenter - turn the existing door around; frame and all. No expense except for your labor.
Both track plans ( above ) look good. Don't cast it in stone though as you may be able to find more switching areas.
ctclibby
Thanks for the input guys and I think I am going to stick with my track plan. I left the long lead out of the yard because the yard is going to be at a higher level than the rest of the layout.
I CANT make any modifications to the shed... I dont own it. It is provided by my property management company and I am not allowed to modify it.
I tried to add a wye to the mix but in order to get an effective wye I would have had to remove the removable section and that is a key component.
Oh and I put the workbench under the west side of the layout and I think that is going to work out the best. We still need to keep our bikes in the shed and this gives us a good wall to hide the bikes against.
SMassey,
Either your second shot at the layout or Paul's concept of it would serve you very well. They correct all of the issues I pointed out in my first post, and give you some good operations options.
You may still have the 18" curves, but that's livable as long as you don't try to run long cars or locos.
Paul's layout has the advantage of being wider at the top it looks like you have about a 20" gap to get through to the upper right corner, and that's pretty tight. Paul's, at almost 24" is much more livable.
Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford
I can't improve on the track plans... but as for the door. How 'bout a pocket door. It slides inside the wall so you won't loose the "door open space and still let in light. Just a thought! good luck
Hi Massey,
The 6 ft x 2,5 ft shelf that will probably be removed is still in your drawings. Or do you have to walk around it? I assume the workbench opposite the shelf will stay; anyhow reaching the lower part of the yard behind an open door will be troublesome.
A couple of remarks about the design itself.
I do like the donut style oval, the aisle before the engine house could be a bit to narrow. A corner of your workbench is the villain.
Lots of your tracks are to close to the walls or edges. Speaking of walls, they are the best place for "backdrop" industries. You could try to have the other tracks more in the center of the shelves.
Some unnecessary S-curves can be found in the station along the west wall.
I would not use the yard for staging only, a cassette might be an answer. The yard could be used for blocking cars, just to get them in the right order in the yard.
Smile
Paul
OK I think I may have a winner here. I took some of the ideas that were posted and came up with a new plan. This one is not as complex but I think it will provide better running and it even has a little switching puzzle on the west side of the layout. The layout will be about chest height to lessen the impact of the duck under when the lift out section is installed.
Lemme know what you all think and if there is a way to make it even better
Hi Massey!
I recognize that funds are limited (so are mine!) but one investment that might gain you some space is to install an outswing door (with the permission of the shed owner of course). You can get a pre-hung outswing door for around $150-$175 at the big box stores. If you can reuse the same handles that will save you some money.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Also, although you may not own the shed, the owner may let you put in a window, especially if it's at your own expense and becomes part of the property when you leave.
Yes, it will suck up some budget, but it sounds like your space is very limited at the moment.
You could probably work something out so that the door can be open and have a duckunder near it. This would allow you to have broader curves.
As I see it, though, right now you're using 18" curves and have a reach that exceeds 36" in spots. Unless you're planning to get a topside creeper to help you reach those back areas, you will be very unhappy with this layout as you've drawn it. If you have any 6 axle diesels, they may not like those 18" curves much.
Hmm.. reminds me to a certain degree of my last railroad 'house' - it was a 10 x 16 shed with a 10 x 10 layout in it.. That being said, if you are willing to use relatively narrow benchwork (12-18 inches) and tolerate a duck under you can do a twice around approach with reasonable curves for small wheelbase locos.
Here's an example of what can be done - and very far from refined:
http://www.bearweb.com/hawksnest/Plan1.jpg
This quick idea uses 21 in curves and yields about 60 ft of main line.
Charles
I thought about all the above but this layout was only approved if I can build it on a budget. Funds are not unlimited here. I own only one N scale loco and no rolling stock and very little track. In HO scale on the other hand I have well over 200 pieces of rolling stock and 47 locomotives. SO the layout is going to be HO scale. I should be able to build solid enough to accept the temp changes with little issues with the track work.
Continous run will be no problem if you're in Z or N scale, bigger than that you'd have some trouble without closing the door to operate.
Keep in mind if this is an unheated shed the temperature and humidity changes could wreak havoc with your track / roadbed. Might be worth looking into something like Kato Unitrack.
The sged has no windows nor can I put any in. I dont technically own the shed. Having the door open is the only way to get natural light in the building. I dont really want to block the door.
Wait for Stein and Paul to respond. They love this kind of stuff and will be all over it with some ideas and drawings.
Rich
Alton Junction
Massey,
That looks pretty interesting to me. My first concern would be the same as one of yours:
SMassey I also want to have access to the layout and not have any areas (if possible) that cannot be reached.
I also want to have access to the layout and not have any areas (if possible) that cannot be reached.
Make sure that doesn't happen. You'll hate it.
Looks like you have room for some light weight pop-up access hatches.
How about a window A/C. It wouldn't take much for a small room like that. Or cost much to run. And it would be so nice.
Jim Murray The San Juan Southern RR
How about just make a shelf type layout around the whole room? The width can be between 12 to 24 inches depending where it is. Put it high enough so that it won't interfere with the work-bench etc. You will have to have some sort of a lift-up bridge or duck-under to get in the center. But you will be able to reach everything.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
OK I have been given the OK by the bank to build a new layout. Problem in my space in which to do this is kinda small for my wants and needs. I am hoping some one here more creative than myself can assist me with a track plan that suits my needs for my workspace.
I have a 9' 6" square room.
I want some part of the layout to be continuous running
I have a 7' x 24" bench that can be moved but not removed.
a 6" x 30" shelf that can and prolly will have to be removed.
Door opens inward and I dont want to have to close the door to run trains. (it gets quite warm in this shed in the summer)
Here is the layout of the shed.
And these are 2 designs I came up with but they leave the one corner just about unaccessable.
2x around. 2.5 max grade.
and a single time around.
I am open to just about any ideas here