Have been using the magnets since they first came out. But I use them only in certain circumstances. For example, a classification flat yard where I want to push a string in, then uncouple and back the engine out. I also use them on several industrial sidings, but have a marker so I know where they are. I don't mount them under the track, but I do remove or sand down the ties so they sit between the rails a little lower.
I also use skewers. I don't use the electro magnets since I have enough wiring to do without adding those in also.
By the way, the only trouble I ever had with magnets snagging glad hands was whenever I had a car that I had put on the railroad without checking the glad hand height, which does happen. Then I get to make the adjustment when they snag or hang up.
Bob
markpierce I wouldn't bother and instead use a wooden skewer.
I wouldn't bother and instead use a wooden skewer.
In the low-clearance, all but unreachable environment where I have to couple and uncouple DMU and EMU in my netherworld? I'll stand back and watch you - and I promise not to laugh.
I also like to `kick' cars into yard tracks from the lead. How do you use a shish-kebab stick when the rolling stock is moving.
The final kicker is the use of diaphragms on my numerous pieces of passenger stock...
IMHO, the big trick is to use under-track magnets, but mount them on hinges so they'll only work when uncoupling is desired. I will admit that uncoupling locations have to be pre-selected, and prepared before track is laid, for this to work.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Floridaflyer,
I'm with Mr. Beasley and Dave H. The under the rails magnets are the way to go. I also found them to be more powerful than the between the rails magnets, thus providing a more positive uncoupling action (wide coupler head separation). This helps with couplers that may be just a tad balky.
Have fun!
Emman
Use the under the track magnets. Invisible after you ballast, work just as well.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
I use the delayed uncouplers in places around my layout. My method for installing them is:
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
That about sums up the differences.
I've used a few of these. Mounted properly with due consideration for things no one tells you about, they work quite well. So...
You need a straight section of track, twice as long as the longest cars you plan to uncouple, with the magnet in the center. This is needed to align the couplers properly. You can cheat on this a bit if you have truck-mounted couplers.
I used the Kadee between-the-rails models on Atlas Code 100 flex track. They were too high. Despite the Kadee gauge recommendations, the magnets should be mounted no higher than level with the rail heads. The recommended height, slightly above the rail heads, will interfere with some low-rider locomotives, which will run aground.
For Phase 2 of my layout, I've switched to the under-the-ties magnets. They don't show at all once the track is ballasted, and there are no mounting issues.
Even with between-the-rails magnets, visibility is an issue when trying to uncouple. Consider various "scenic elements" to mark the location of the uncoupler, like light poles, figures or autos.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
If you are going to just drop cars on a siding, regular will do what you want. If you plan on spotting cars in front of loading doors or next to unloading platforms, delayed will work better. The delayed ones hold the coupler open. Pull ahead a little, then back up, the open couplers push together in a manner that they will not couple, thus you can push the car back to the point where you want to drop it.
Have fun,
Richard
Need a voice of experience on the KD between the track uncouplers in HO, either regular or delayed. What are the advantages of one over the other? I have a number of relatively short sidings that would hold about 3-4 boxcars. don't want to go the electric route, just want a basic way to drop a few cars.